Trashed drivetrain on 4x launch
Would it be possible to have the truck defuel for long enough to allow the air-shifter to shift into 2-wheel? Maybe just a fraction of a second?
Do motorcycles with air-shifters work that way? I have no experience with air-shifters, just curious if this would work on a diesel.
Do motorcycles with air-shifters work that way? I have no experience with air-shifters, just curious if this would work on a diesel.
It does remind me of the time I was in the shop asking the service manager a question and someone yelled "Watch out". Looking across the garage, a full size pickup was up on a lift and was unballanced, the rear end came all the way to the floor and the front end was pointing at the ceiling. No injuries. Kinda makes one wonder if they are the "Experts" and screw up, where do other 'mechanics' place the jack.
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just look at the post about the guy with the lotus that fell off the lift....maybe spped shift brought his to the same palce and they didnt tell him about it?
After studying the pictures of your control arm damage, I am convinced that it could not have been damaged by your 4WD boost launch, although leaving that hard certainly would have exacerbated any weak point from pre-existing abuse to the point of failure. Something hit the control arm hard enough to crimp it like that - either a road obstacle or improper jacking/hoisting.
The abrasion, rust area and sharpness of the crimp make it obvious... the force required to bend the control arm from the front differential's reaction torque would have bent it quite differently.
The abrasion, rust area and sharpness of the crimp make it obvious... the force required to bend the control arm from the front differential's reaction torque would have bent it quite differently.
Would it be possible to have the truck defuel for long enough to allow the air-shifter to shift into 2-wheel? Maybe just a fraction of a second?
Do motorcycles with air-shifters work that way? I have no experience with air-shifters, just curious if this would work on a diesel.
Do motorcycles with air-shifters work that way? I have no experience with air-shifters, just curious if this would work on a diesel.
Kevin
YEAH, yeah I know I was wrong
I just dont remember hitting anything that hard, and if I cant remember hitting anything hard enough to bend it, the arms are not strong enough. When I looked at it, my way of thinking the tourqe was applied was backwards and the launch was all I could think of that was violent enough to break something.
I hit pot-holes everyday, not huge pot-holes but its not all highway, so maybe it bent then. My 2000 model 2500 4x4 I could do all kinds of dumb stuff in, I would jump it, run over everything, and it has 35" boggers on it and it never bent anything. Every truck I have and, have had has been lifted, so maybe I am taking it a little too hard on this stock suspension.
The other killer is this truck has never done anything, it is a city queen.
The dealer bending it is out of the question, because they use lifts, not jacks and I took these pictures yesterday and they worked on it the day before, and it would have taken longer than 12 hours to rust. The truck has not been touched with a jack by anybody in 6 months.
If you notice on the arm it bent at the relief point(where the hole is) so it wont tear-up any brackets, the arm did its job, and it had to be from somehting I hit, nothing else.
I will post some pics for you guys, I am going with a 2.5" Skyjacker and 33" Iroks, with 2" rear spacers. I will paint the lift white before I install it. It comes with coils, lower control arms, shocks, bumpstops, and a rear
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Thanks for all of your informed words guys. Later, Bodie
I just dont remember hitting anything that hard, and if I cant remember hitting anything hard enough to bend it, the arms are not strong enough. When I looked at it, my way of thinking the tourqe was applied was backwards and the launch was all I could think of that was violent enough to break something. I hit pot-holes everyday, not huge pot-holes but its not all highway, so maybe it bent then. My 2000 model 2500 4x4 I could do all kinds of dumb stuff in, I would jump it, run over everything, and it has 35" boggers on it and it never bent anything. Every truck I have and, have had has been lifted, so maybe I am taking it a little too hard on this stock suspension.
The other killer is this truck has never done anything, it is a city queen.
The dealer bending it is out of the question, because they use lifts, not jacks and I took these pictures yesterday and they worked on it the day before, and it would have taken longer than 12 hours to rust. The truck has not been touched with a jack by anybody in 6 months.
If you notice on the arm it bent at the relief point(where the hole is) so it wont tear-up any brackets, the arm did its job, and it had to be from somehting I hit, nothing else.
I will post some pics for you guys, I am going with a 2.5" Skyjacker and 33" Iroks, with 2" rear spacers. I will paint the lift white before I install it. It comes with coils, lower control arms, shocks, bumpstops, and a rear
ad-a-leaf.
Thanks for all of your informed words guys. Later, Bodie
Well just some info on the air shifter thing......... There is a air cylinder that pushes onto the shift lever trying to force it into the next gear when you push the button, it also "kills" the engine for a split second to allow the trans to shift. This engine kill also works with the electric shifters that you still shift with your foot without the clutch, just load the shifter and it jumps into next gear. A good rider usually does this by loading the shifter with pressure with your foot then slightly roll off the throttle to 3/4 or 1/2 throttle and it will shift as soon as the load is taken off gear. But this can lead to bent or broken shift forks inside if you load it too hard or to long before shift. My drag bike was a lesson learned when I pulled my engine/trans apart to find discolored tips on my shift fork from heat cause I loaded shifter too long before shifting. But those trannsmission gears are cut with a "back cut" or "undercut" type of gear that "holds" the thing in gear under load, with some clearance behind the "dog tooth" to allow it to fall out easily. While the next gears undercut helps it shift by pulling it into gear as the undercut surface is actually a angle cut into the gear face. any method is so you don't have to use the clutch to shift. This is off topic but just some info for curious people.......
The way an airshifter works on a motorcycle is just to force it to the next gear. But you are only talking about minimal tourque. In race cars they have what are called liberty trans, which are clutchless, but they have specially cut gears that help with being able to force them out. And there again, you are talking about cars with lots of hp, but much less torque than what even a stock engine in one of our trucks will put out. In a transfer case the torque will just hold the gear til you slack off, if there was a way to defuel long enough that possibly could work, but I think personally that the strain of shifting would be much harder on it than just leaving it in. I know that here where I live, that 70% of the people with 4x4s (which constitutes about 70% of the population.) run with there 4x4 engaged all winter long. And we dont have a rash of t-case failures here,
Kevin
Kevin
973604x4 Nah, I doubt she took it anywhere there would be burnout marks everywhere she tried to shift..... lets say she SPEEDSHIFTs, but she lets it get reeeaeaaaaaalll reved up before she dumps the clutch.


