torque converter Lockup switch problems....
ok so I just finished wiring up my torque converter lockup switch and when I hit the switch nothing happens. I have it wired as follows...
Battery---fuse---switch----33ohm resistor----#25 wire on C2 module I checked and rechecked, the circuit is complete and the fuse is good. anybody have any insight on this one? |
Originally Posted by ADDT2TRQUE
(Post 2176729)
ok so I just finished wiring up my torque converter lockup switch and when I hit the switch nothing happens. I have it wired as follows...
Battery---fuse---switch----33ohm resistor----#25 wire on C2 module I checked and rechecked, the circuit is complete and the fuse is good. anybody have any insight on this one? ground --switch --- 33ohm resistor and diode----#7 wire on trans harness different year though. |
when the torque converter locks using the switch are you grounding it out or giving it power to lock it up?
I got the idea of using the #25 pin on the C2 module from this thread https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...+switch&page=2 |
Grounding the wire.
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yea, you need to ground the wire not power it up.
BTW: thanks for the link to the steering column switch. I've been looking for that one. I'll locate my switch this weekend.. |
On the link, the guy uses a relay, do you need a relay?
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Originally Posted by TMan
(Post 2176912)
On the link, the guy uses a relay, do you need a relay?
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Originally Posted by jrussell
(Post 2176918)
No relay is needed, unless you're doing the steering column switch. Don had to use a relay because the steering column switch was only able to handle very small amounts of voltage.
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Originally Posted by T & T
(Post 2177086)
I thought the relay was to assist with powering up the LED and had nothing to do with voltage through the column (for a steering wheel switch, all that is needed is a ground connection via the switch).
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well now i feel dumb for powering the wire not grounding it....[duhhh][duhhh]
thanks guys |
Originally Posted by jrussell
(Post 2177089)
I could be wrong, but I was pretty sure it was for the micro-switch he used on the column. LED's don't take much power at all, so I don't think a relay would be needed for that.
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Originally Posted by T & T
(Post 2177119)
I guess I don't understand why you need to worry about a micro switch that provides only a ground connection since it's a signal connection not power.
You would NOT want to use this switch technique using a direct connection as the clockspring probably can not support the direct electrical load. |
well the switch I have is rated at 25amps at 12VDC which is more than enough to handle the load especially since it is being reduced by the 33ohm resistor.
Ok well my switch is still a no go, I hooked it up to ground and when I hit it still no thing happens. Is the #25 wire on the C2 module wrong?? as of now my wiring is as follows. #25wire----33ohm resistor----switch----ground |
resistor after switch
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how does it matter where the resistor is located, the switch is just completing a circuit, after the switch is closed then its still just #25 wire to resistor to ground
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