Sandaholic

How it acts going down hill is the question I was going to ask! As long as he has around 5-10 gallons going down hill on a steep grade he should be fine. Without that canister inside the tank holding that extra bit of fuel and having the drawstraw placed at one end of the tank I have to think on a long enough down hill grade and not enough fuel in the tank this setup could run into problems. Maybe not huge problems it is downhill we're talking about here


COWBOY6300 would you care to do some experiments for us?

53 willys

I have seen lots of guys say their set-up works great with no 1/4 tank problems...only to find out they dont even have a FP gauge to see what the psi is doing...my truck would go to 0psi all the time...but it NEVER stumbled or stalled..even with the needle resting on the "E" pin...it would sit at zero for a long time too..I STILL GET fluctuating readings when I get lower on fuel...but NOTHING like when I had just a drawstraw..with my moded canister I have yet to get a 0psi reading..the lowest I got was 7-8psi..witch is fine for me. after all I dont run mine down past 1/4 very often..I usually fill up at 1/4 tank..

zuki_dan

I replaced mine about a month ago and set it up with a -8 an bulkhead and drawstraw 1/4 off the bottom of the moduel when installed and also ran the fuel bypass from fass back into the old feed line with the dorman fitting from glacier. I also have my factory return fed into the stock return on the module. I have run my truck down to 1/16 of a tank and have no fuel pressure issues or fluctuations, even under hard throttle, braking and turning. The only pressure drop I get is the normal amount from the fueling enhancements.

Fisherguy

Cool, hopefully mine works as well...?

Fisherguy

BTW, I measured the stock unit's fuel gauge sending unit and compared it to the Liberty unit, both had a range of 20 to 220 ohms so I didn't bother swapping them around, (although it would be easy to do)

Here's some pics of the install:



I put some scrap metal ontop of the frame to get the pump as high as possible, you can see it here...


Here's the Liberty unit on the left, the factory one on the right, note the "location tabs" are no the same, I cut it off the Liberty unit.



Another comparison shot with some "nectar of the gods" (that's beer, NOT diesel!)

Festus

Fisherguy,

What would be the internal height of those baskets - inside, right from the bottom "floor" to the top of the plastic - both sides where the spring support arms are mounted and the opposite side?

Fisherguy

I put the stocker on my bench, it's 4 3/8" to the top of the canister and 5 1/4" to the higher part.

Festus

That's measuring from the outside, or internally where the OE pump sits on bottom?

Sorry, I gotta ask......that measure is conflicting to another I just received.

Oh! And the total height to the lid is......?

Maybe I should go find a similar beer bottle to drink.........er..........I mean measure from. That pic displays a reference that isn't too bad.

Fisherguy

Those are measured outside.


From the inside I get 4 3/16 and 4 15/16, so about 3/16 less than the outside (I was not too exact on the outside height to the higher part.)

Overall the height measured on the inside to the bottom of the lid is 14 1/16" with no compression of the springs. Keep in mind you actually compress them about 2 inches when you install the canister.
(Sorry, I'm not going to drop my full tank tonight to measure the exact amount of compression!)

Maybe you can tell us what you're cooking up or at least PM me? I'm curios.

2007 5.9

FISHERGUY....

Nice work....BTW what is the part# for the Fleetgaurd filter???? Do you also have the part# for the Waster Seperator?????

Festus

Thanks!!!

Currently, the only thing I'm trying to figure upon is the length of hard drawstraw I require from the bottom of the canister mounted hard to the side (somewhere in there with the OE pump still in place) leaving enough room to fuse that 5/8" teflon corrugated tube I have coming. From there, I want to run that tube to the bottom of a 'real' bulkhead fitting I was able to get my hands on. Still pondering the return line set up though.

This is all currently just theory and the exact manner it will be done will be determined once I have all parts on hand, lift the box, and remove the canister to play. My other thoughts revolve around actual canister modification to get fuel into it more efficiently under normal circumstances as well. The engineers at the plant have come up with some great ideas to consider -- they have no idea what my "hypothetical" discussions with them actually involve. It's easy to get them talking about 'stuff'.

I'm currently pre-building some things and when the deed actually gets done.........I'll be cooking with diesel.

If it works......it'll have better performance than the OE version, more than accomplish my goals, and a challenge conquered. If it doesn't work, it'll have just been a waste of a lot of thought and about $150 in parts I never really needed. However, I know I'll learn a bunch along the way.

I would never ask that you drop a full tank for that..........I'd wait until your level was a bit more depleted.

Fisherguy

53Willys gave me these numbers BTW...

FS19768 for the water separator
FF5613 for the 3 micron filter, both are Fleetguard parts from your local Cummins dealer.