Symptoms of blown Rail valve...
I have been having occasional long crank/hard starting for about a week. Ever since I installed my MP-8 I have had this issue, it doesnt do it all the time but usually first thinhg in the morning or after it has sat for more than 4hours...it takes 4-5sec longer to start and it acts like it wants to in the normal time frame but sputters out and takes a little more.
I have removed the MP-8 and returned my truck back to my original settings...but to no avail. I am wondering if I might have blown my rail valve 2 weeks ago on the dyno. I was running Smarty TNT/R on RP-3 and made a run with the MP-8 on 100%.
What are some ways to test for a blown valve???
I can still make and maintain excellent RP just seems that the system bleeds down over time.
I also have NO rough idle or white smoke...and not making any oil!
I have removed the MP-8 and returned my truck back to my original settings...but to no avail. I am wondering if I might have blown my rail valve 2 weeks ago on the dyno. I was running Smarty TNT/R on RP-3 and made a run with the MP-8 on 100%.
What are some ways to test for a blown valve???
I can still make and maintain excellent RP just seems that the system bleeds down over time.
I also have NO rough idle or white smoke...and not making any oil!
I have been having occasional long crank/hard starting for about a week. Ever since I installed my MP-8 I have had this issue, it doesnt do it all the time but usually first thinhg in the morning or after it has sat for more than 4hours...it takes 4-5sec longer to start and it acts like it wants to in the normal time frame but sputters out and takes a little more.
I have removed the MP-8 and returned my truck back to my original settings...but to no avail. I am wondering if I might have blown my rail valve 2 weeks ago on the dyno. I was running Smarty TNT/R on RP-3 and made a run with the MP-8 on 100%.
What are some ways to test for a blown valve???
I can still make and maintain excellent RP just seems that the system bleeds down over time.
I also have NO rough idle or white smoke...and not making any oil!
I have removed the MP-8 and returned my truck back to my original settings...but to no avail. I am wondering if I might have blown my rail valve 2 weeks ago on the dyno. I was running Smarty TNT/R on RP-3 and made a run with the MP-8 on 100%.
What are some ways to test for a blown valve???
I can still make and maintain excellent RP just seems that the system bleeds down over time.
I also have NO rough idle or white smoke...and not making any oil!

mishkaya
careful though, i had symptoms of popped valve and pulled the return line to find it full of fuel. ended up being a false positive, had it tested and no leakage at all. guy at the shop said a little fuel can flow backwards through the return line and end up on top of relief valve....
when mine popped, i was going over a set of railroad tracks- felt like i'd pinned the pedal, but hadn't.... I looked back and there was a huge gout of black smoke in the road....
truck ran fine for the 12 miles back to the house. when i went to crank it, i had a long crank, followed by a smoky, not-all-cylinders-fueling-escalating-lumpy rise in engine rpm until i shut her down.
dealer said fuel rail had cracked.
Greg
truck ran fine for the 12 miles back to the house. when i went to crank it, i had a long crank, followed by a smoky, not-all-cylinders-fueling-escalating-lumpy rise in engine rpm until i shut her down.
dealer said fuel rail had cracked.
Greg
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Less, I too have the same symptoms as you. 4-5 SECOND starts after truck has been sitting for awhile. Started after i installed and used the mp-8. Let me know how it turns out for you. I may try and cap my rail to and see what happens. Lets keep each other informed. I would like to see some pix or a write up on the process.


