superlift vs tuffcountry
Originally Posted by Igor
I just put a 6" superlift on mine, w/bilsteins, and the ride is great. Better then stock (37" mud tires).
Get good shocks, both will ride good.
Get good shocks, both will ride good.
My 6" Superlift put the front driveshaft in such a bind that I had to pull the shaft and run around in 2wd the whole time instead of paying $1000 to have a custom shaft built, or putting an indexing ring in the t-case and notching the crossmember.Among other issues I had with the kit, it's needless to say I'm done w/ Superlift.
Originally Posted by Patrolman808
My 6" Superlift put the front driveshaft in such a bind that I had to pull the shaft and run around in 2wd the whole time instead of paying $1000 to have a custom shaft built, or putting an indexing ring in the t-case and notching the crossmember.
Did they send a tranny drop bracket with yours?
Thanks.
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http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/
can make a custom high angle front shaft for about $350-400
can make a custom high angle front shaft for about $350-400
Drive Shaft Angles
Just to let everybody know, I only completed 2 years of Mechanical engineering so this may not be 100% correct.
Since I will be lifting my truck and need to make sure I don't have a shudder, I measured the drive shaft angles of the truck stock (quad cab, long bed, so it's a two piece shaft) the front shaft is at 5 Degree's and the rear is at 8 Degree's. Basicaly the difference between the two is 3 degrees. They recoment at least 2 degree's diference so that the needle bearings can spin and lubricate themselfs. My thinking (will only be able to actually test when I get a lift, unless somebody want's to try this) is align your drive shafts up back to this difference. So taking it the front is 5 stock and the rear 8, say the lift throughs it out of wack, you have to split the difference. So say the front is now at 8 Degree's (you added 3 degree's to this, the rear drive shaft must have 3 added to it also) So now your rear is at 11 degree's. So even though you've now changed it to 8 degree's and 11 degree's, you've maintained that 3 degree's difference, and kept your pinion and output shaft near spec.....
With all that said I believe the easy rule of thumb is for however high you jack the rear, half that to the Carrier bearing drop. i.e. you put on a 4" rear block, you need at least 2" carrier drop.
I hope this equation is right as I plan to test it when I get my lift with my bonus money for x-mas, should buy a nice lift and tires
Will also test my theroy sooner if any lift kit donations show up in my mail box. PM me for my address.
Since I will be lifting my truck and need to make sure I don't have a shudder, I measured the drive shaft angles of the truck stock (quad cab, long bed, so it's a two piece shaft) the front shaft is at 5 Degree's and the rear is at 8 Degree's. Basicaly the difference between the two is 3 degrees. They recoment at least 2 degree's diference so that the needle bearings can spin and lubricate themselfs. My thinking (will only be able to actually test when I get a lift, unless somebody want's to try this) is align your drive shafts up back to this difference. So taking it the front is 5 stock and the rear 8, say the lift throughs it out of wack, you have to split the difference. So say the front is now at 8 Degree's (you added 3 degree's to this, the rear drive shaft must have 3 added to it also) So now your rear is at 11 degree's. So even though you've now changed it to 8 degree's and 11 degree's, you've maintained that 3 degree's difference, and kept your pinion and output shaft near spec.....
With all that said I believe the easy rule of thumb is for however high you jack the rear, half that to the Carrier bearing drop. i.e. you put on a 4" rear block, you need at least 2" carrier drop.
I hope this equation is right as I plan to test it when I get my lift with my bonus money for x-mas, should buy a nice lift and tires
Will also test my theroy sooner if any lift kit donations show up in my mail box. PM me for my address.
Well I can't try nothing now, my truck is sitting in a pool of water/mud. But it makes sence.
My rear is up 4". BUT, the superlift kit came with a "new" tranny drop bracket to help with the front driveshaft issues. HOWEVER, I think this is ok with a shortobx truck, but not longbox.
Here is why.
The rear of the transfer case gets pointed slighly downward (which could be ok with the shortbox and 1pc shaft), but in the case of he LB, that is worse, because now the front part of the shaft needs goes up towards the carrier bearing, then down (at a sharp angle) to the diff. This is how mine was when I first put the lift in and the shudder was brutal. So they had a 2" Superduty pro comp spacer for the carrier bearing (fits), so threw that in, it help a lot, but, still not solved.
IF the transfercase/tranny has no moved, it maybe would have been good enough. But in this case, I think I need more.
So I will measure and experiment when I get home. Thanks for the stock angle numbers, as I don't have them/can't get them anymore.
But the way I see it is, I'll need a 2" drop bracket, then, the 2" spacer (or maybe 1, but can shim to perfection then). What I might do first is remove the front driveshaft and go for a drive to just eliminate that possiblity and not have to work backwords later on.
My rear is up 4". BUT, the superlift kit came with a "new" tranny drop bracket to help with the front driveshaft issues. HOWEVER, I think this is ok with a shortobx truck, but not longbox.
Here is why.
The rear of the transfer case gets pointed slighly downward (which could be ok with the shortbox and 1pc shaft), but in the case of he LB, that is worse, because now the front part of the shaft needs goes up towards the carrier bearing, then down (at a sharp angle) to the diff. This is how mine was when I first put the lift in and the shudder was brutal. So they had a 2" Superduty pro comp spacer for the carrier bearing (fits), so threw that in, it help a lot, but, still not solved.
IF the transfercase/tranny has no moved, it maybe would have been good enough. But in this case, I think I need more.
So I will measure and experiment when I get home. Thanks for the stock angle numbers, as I don't have them/can't get them anymore.
But the way I see it is, I'll need a 2" drop bracket, then, the 2" spacer (or maybe 1, but can shim to perfection then). What I might do first is remove the front driveshaft and go for a drive to just eliminate that possiblity and not have to work backwords later on.
I just sold my 04.5 and Picked up a 06. I had a 4.5" tuffcounty lift and you get what you pay for. I just put a 6" superlift with the bilstein upgrade and what a night and day difference between the two. It realy rides better than factory. We had to fab about three inches on the carrier bearing, but the angles are pretty much perfect. Running 325/60/20's. Already swapped out DDT Tanny, Injectors, Twins, ArcFlow intake, FASS, magtec cover and added dual exhaust. JUST NEED A PRGRAMER!!! Hope this helps.
WOW, nice man!!! Long box?
Yes, I think I need another inch. Did you drive it before you spaced the carrier bearing? Any problems? Did you use the tranny drop bracket?
THANKS for your help!!!
Yes, I think I need another inch. Did you drive it before you spaced the carrier bearing? Any problems? Did you use the tranny drop bracket?
THANKS for your help!!!
Carrier Bearing Drop
Are you guys fabing up your own drop brackets for the Carrier Bearing?? I'm looking at going up 3" in the back (most of the 6 inch lifts have 2 or so inches of drop) so I'm thinking of going with about 1.5" for the carrier Drop. If you guys bought drops, could you let me know where, and how much they supply. I know tuff country sells a kit but it looks like it would only drop it a 1/2" max.
Tom
Tom
Yes Longbox. No, didn't drive it before we made the bracket. The guy that installed the lift has been installing lifts for twenty years and can pretty much fab anything. He made the bracket himself, and made sure the angles were correct before we even drove it. Very impressed.


