Superchips Firefly installed...
Superchips Firefly installed...
I just got done installing the Firefly. (I didn't install the EGT probe yet, but the system will work without it) It was pretty straight forward, but they do need to work out the instructions a little better. Here are some of the problems I ran into:
1. The pictures illustrating where the MAP sensor and fuel pressure sensor plugs are needs to be bigger. If someone didn't know where to look for them, they would never find them by looking at the picture. (They are on the left side of the engine, next to the valve cover.(your right as you look at the engine from the front))
2. When installing the MAP sensor and fuel pressure sensor plugs, the instructions never said to plug the original OEM plugs that you just unplugged into the plugs on the wiring harness.
3. When installing the power tap, the instructions suggests that you use fuse #49 for the 04.5 trucks. Fuse #49 is a spare and I couldn't get any power from it. I ended up using #50, the transmission control fuse.
After my test drive one thing is very apparent, I will need a new clutch before long. My wife drove my truck a couple of months ago and smoked the clutch pretty bad. I'm not sure how she did it (nor how she manages to do most the things she does to a vehicle), but she did. When I went out tonight, I did manage to get the clutch to slip a little. Oh well, anyone have any suggestions as to a good replacement clutch?
1. The pictures illustrating where the MAP sensor and fuel pressure sensor plugs are needs to be bigger. If someone didn't know where to look for them, they would never find them by looking at the picture. (They are on the left side of the engine, next to the valve cover.(your right as you look at the engine from the front))
2. When installing the MAP sensor and fuel pressure sensor plugs, the instructions never said to plug the original OEM plugs that you just unplugged into the plugs on the wiring harness.
3. When installing the power tap, the instructions suggests that you use fuse #49 for the 04.5 trucks. Fuse #49 is a spare and I couldn't get any power from it. I ended up using #50, the transmission control fuse.
After my test drive one thing is very apparent, I will need a new clutch before long. My wife drove my truck a couple of months ago and smoked the clutch pretty bad. I'm not sure how she did it (nor how she manages to do most the things she does to a vehicle), but she did. When I went out tonight, I did manage to get the clutch to slip a little. Oh well, anyone have any suggestions as to a good replacement clutch?
yeah, my gauge is annoying as hell. Also the truck seems to have a different tune to the engine with the setting on 0. might be an exhaust leak from the pyro, have to check it out in the morning. sounds like almost like a ticking sound.
As I stated, I haven't installed the pyro probe yet. I plan on installing it behind the turbo and not in the manifold. I wondered why they stated you needed a magnet to collect the shavings until I paid attention to where they want you to put the probe. All the semi engines I've driven or owned had the probe in the down pipe, a couple of inches behind the turbo. There must be a good reason for this. I doubt I'll have to do anything different from the directions, just change the location.
I like my Edge
You've bought what you've bought, so hopefully it works well for you. You can put the pyro in preturbo, just drill the manifold with the engine running to blow all of the debris out, and nothing should fall in. Use a new bit. The shavings that came off when I did mine were finer then sand. No little curly Q's like when you drill plate steel. Cast is brittle and more chips off then cuts. Show no fear.
Preturbo gives you a faster temperature change and allows the unit to protect your engine better.
Preturbo gives you a faster temperature change and allows the unit to protect your engine better.
I installed my FireFly today, does anybody's pyro pluse or flicker when moving? The boost is a solid arc, but the pyro flickers when moving. Also how & were did you mount the control box? The instructions say to mount it to the fuse box but don't tell you how! The wires to the box are so stiff I doubt velcro would hold it.
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1 of the reasons to mount the thermocouple post turbo is the fear that the tip will break off and kill the turbo if it is installed before the turbo. after, it just falls out the tailpipe.
preturbo, will give you faster more accurate readings. post turbo-you'll have to take into account the 250-300* difference in egt. heat energy is used spinning the turbine, so some of the heat is transfered to motion. if you forget and are reading 1200* post turbo, bye bye engine components.
preturbo, will give you faster more accurate readings. post turbo-you'll have to take into account the 250-300* difference in egt. heat energy is used spinning the turbine, so some of the heat is transfered to motion. if you forget and are reading 1200* post turbo, bye bye engine components.
The SRT pillar won't work for me because of my Commander. I may just send this thing back. I don't want to mess with my Quadzilla stuff, and I don't want to have a gauge flopping around on top of my dash.
First impression- Lower settings don't make much difference. Level 3 is about the same as my Quad race on 60 hp. Good power but not as much as the Quad. In the instructions S/C says that this module was created with towing in mind. I think I'm gonna get My money back
1 of the reasons to mount the thermocouple post turbo is the fear that the tip will break off and kill the turbo if it is installed before the turbo. after, it just falls out the tailpipe.
preturbo, will give you faster more accurate readings. post turbo-you'll have to take into account the 250-300* difference in egt. heat energy is used spinning the turbine, so some of the heat is transfered to motion. if you forget and are reading 1200* post turbo, bye bye engine components.
preturbo, will give you faster more accurate readings. post turbo-you'll have to take into account the 250-300* difference in egt. heat energy is used spinning the turbine, so some of the heat is transfered to motion. if you forget and are reading 1200* post turbo, bye bye engine components.
I have my gauge sitting on the dash waiting for the srt pillar to come. I have not noticed much gain, but when i stacked with the flashpaq (SHHHH....) the thing rips. performance with the flash paq and setting 2 with the firefly about ripped the seat out of my pants using that method of dyno. I am wondering how accurate the gauges are. the boost seems to be spot on with what i see everyone else running. 32 stock, 42 with flashpaq. but the egts....Acurate or not? I mounted my brain box, right next to the battery, inside the battery box. if fit in there perfect and threw a piece of double sticky on it for good measure.
blue, i think their reasoning for the worry just isnt that justified. I have mine pre as well and wouldnt do it any other way. how often do you hear of a thermocouple breaking off? i have never seen it, but I have only been a diesel mech for 12 years, what do i know?
500* differential? wow.
500* differential? wow.



