While driving my 04 Dodge 3500 Cummins 305/555, auto, Edge EZ, down the street,at a speed of around 45mph, all of a sudden it went to wide open throttle. It completely caught me off guard and the first thing I did was hit the brake. It had very little effect on what was happening. In less than 1 block I was well over 70mph with the brake on in a 45mph zone. All of a sudden, as sudden as it started, it stopped. I pulled over on the sholder, the engine was ideling and the accelerator pedal would not work. You could press it but nothing would happen just idle. I noticed the "check engine" light was on. I turned off the ignition and then restarted it. It ran fine. The "check engine" light was still on but it ran fine. I went to the dealer and they said they had never heard of that, but bring it in the morning and they would get right on it. I took off the Edge EZ then took it there. The "check engine" light still on. They checked it out said the codes made no since and they did not know what happened. The " check engine" light is off and it runs OK, But what happened. I have not put the Edge back on.

Bill

 

I had the same exact thing happen, I was at 90 mph on a 40 mph road when I finally had to put it in neutral, pedal had no effect on rpm as I coasted to a stop the engine sat pegged at the rev limiter and stayed there until I shut the motor down, not much for turbo cool down but what else could be done. I did not take it to the dealer... I had the quad box on but even twisting the *** had no effect and was totally unrelated to the incident. I did not have cruise control on or showing as ready to gointo cruise, ie cruise light on in instrument panel. I had some codes, but not sure from when. fuel presure too high and another I forget. it was scary with the family in the truck. waited a few minutes trying to see that all connections were tight and they were, restarted and all was back to normal.

 

Well let's hope someone reads this that will have some idea. I hate the idea of what would have happened if the wife had been driving. It is her truck anyway.

Bill

 

You all should report this to NHTSA

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov

 

I looked in the truck and found the dealer report it says,
"CORR: RAN DRB TEST. CODES P2121 -- APP VOLTS DO NOT AGREE WITH
IDLE VALIDATIONSIGNAL AND P2123-- HIGH VOLTAGE AT APP SENSOR
CHECKED SENSOR VOLTAGE FOR APP. WORKING PROPERLY AT THIS TIME.
CHECKED FOR TSB'S. NONE. COULD NOT DUPLICATE."

And thats what it said.

Bill

 

Great! So the tech verified your complaint by seeing the APPS codes, but since the truck didn't go WOT while they had it, they didn't replace the APPS.

I guess you could wait until it happens next, then steer into the nearest tree, parked car, or building (at the same time praying you don't hurt anyone), then sue DC and the dealer for not fixing it the first time. (Just kidding, I don't believe in suing for every little thing)

Idiot techs/shop managers. You'd think they'd replace the APPS just to be safe. It's not like they're paying for it.

I would go and talk to the service manager with your paperwork and demand that they fix the APPS. If they don't, then threaten to complain to DC. Hopefully they'll fix it for you.

 

You are way off. So in your scenario the "idiot" tech replaces the APPS but the problem possiblywith the PCM, wiring or even (I don't know how) the Edge box. (remember it was taken off before service) Same thing happens. In your mind he is still an idiot tech because you would say he didn't diag and fix it the first visit. If the APPS is sent back to DC for analysis and is found to be in proper working order, the dealership eats the warranty claim. So yes it is like they are paying for it.
If you are truly concerned with how a tech diags and a dealership service runs I suggest you take a couple of days and ask the "idiot" service manager if you can hang around and see how things run. I suspect your attitude would be much different. You may even find it beneficial to have your lawyer at your side that day. His eyes may be opened also.

 

THIS IS THE KINDA THING THAT GETS PEOPLE KILLED!!!!

 

I apologize if I offended you. I'm guessing you're a tech.

So far in dealing with three separate Dodge dealerships in the greater SF Bay Area, I have found nothing but idiots. Service writers and service managers who don't know their jobs or their product, and techs that also don't know what the heck they're doing. I'm sure there are some good ones, but not in my experience. I'm comparing Dodge's dealerships to my previous dealings with Ford, Toyota, Acura, Lexus, Mercedes, and BMW. I'm my company's equipment manager, and have had plenty of experience with automotive service (and construction equipment as well).

It's not a DC issue in my perception as much as it is a dealer issue. We had DC buy back a $90k Mercedes S500, but for the exact opposite problem. It would go to idle at any given time, until the car was "re-booted." Everything tested fine, but the car would go to idle on the highway, at lights, anytime. Finally the service manager drove the car for a week, and it almost killed him. After that incident (trying to cross an intersection) DC bought the car back.

As I stated before, to protect the safety of the customer, and possibly innocent bystanders, the dealership (whether it's the tech or the service manager) should have changed out that possibly defective APPS. What's a couple hundred bucks compared to a life? I know on that Mercedes they changed out every module and TPS on the car, to no avail. Certainly not cheap, but they realized the gravity of the situation.

And by the way, how do you suggest that a device that plugs into the MAP sensor and rail pressure sensor caused this problem? It's not like the box can hold the injectors open and give full throttle.

 

Something very similar happened to me but mine was that I had two aftermarket floor mats a thick one and a trough one to catch crap. Well I accidently kicked the top floor mat and caught the gas pedal and it was jammed stuck. I nailed the brakes and turned off the truck but it scared the crap out of me and freed up the pedal. I went still shaking to the dealer and they figured it out in about 5 minutes. I got a code too but that was for overloading the ABS circuit or something similar ( by putting my foot through the floor) With the pedal jammed on the floor the ABS kept the truck from stopping. Without ABS I would have stopped sooner. As is I cracked a caliper. Probably not what you had but I always watch where the power pedals are and I cut out the mat around the pedals.(Full up towards driver). ks

 

A little off topic but...

I am not to sure about all these fly by wire systems...

In my 2005 I was driving down the freeway and all of a sudden all the dash warning lights came on, the dingerts started dinging for about 3 to 5 seconds.. The good thing is the truck never stumbled...

Also at least once a week I get in start the truck and none of the power windows work.. turn the truck off and restart all is fine..

Can't take it to the dealer because no codes and can't duplicate it on demand.. Just have to wait for it to stop completly...

I looked at the miles of Wires under the hood and it scares the heck out of me.. Also makes me wonder if I want to keep the truck after it is out of warranty.. Can't imagine tracing a wireing problem in this truck..

My 2002 Freighliner also has a cummings and all is electronic.. all the time dead pedals, trans shift odd then fine again... PTO RPM's are 1800 one day another day 1500 and some day just idle... Who knows .. no one can figure it out... Been to Freighliner and cummins several times.. always Can't duplicate... (except the last time had a code and the VP44 was bad)...

Gerry

 

well it is a freightliner J/K

 

But it is a Freightliner with a Cummins....

Newer trucks are fords With a CAT.. Which would you rather have???

 

Not unless it is a TST that is and has direct control of the injectors.

 

Nope not a tech. Not offended either. Just stating another opinion. I have family in the industry.
If the tech had replaced the APPS then the dealership is admitting or agreeing there is a problem. (codes can and have been generated by customers unplugging sensors, FLOORMATS, tuner boxes etc) Then if the problem persists and the owner has an accident DC and the dealer are on the hook.
If you think you have superior diag skills I know the dealerships in this area are hiring. A good tech can make 100k plus. Maybe time for a career change??
I don't know how an edge box works. That is why I say maybe. You state that the injectors stuck open. How did you come to that conclusion? Possibly this alleged WOT acceleration was due to a runaway (lube oil being drawn into combustion chamber), driver error (heaven forbid), mis programmed tuner? improperly installed tuner, bent pins when installing the tuner? starter fluid being used as a starting aid in cold weather (been done many times with customer denying doing it. Like you can't smell it) Diag on a vehicle when the symptoms are not present is not clean cut. More variables there than you can imagine.