Getting ready to put on an ATS manifold. How do you get the two nuts loose on the back side of the turbo mount? They look like they are gonna be a bear and will have to get at'm from the bottom, but I’m not sure I can…..too much in the way. Any other tips for the install?

AK

 

I installed this last weekend, along with the DD Jammer turbo. Yes, you can get to those two nuts from the bottom. It was much easier on a lift, but it shouldn't be too bad just crawling underneath. Use an 18" to 24" extension, with a 15mm socket. It's actually pretty easy to thread the socket/extension up there. Spray the nuts with some penetrating oil first, and get ready for a bit of a workout. Those things are on TIGHT (32 ft. lbs., my a$$)

However, this is the easier of the "pain in the butt" tasks on swapping the manifold. Getting the heater hose bracket off the bottom bolt on the #5 exhaust port was a MAJOR b!tc#. I almost resorted to cutting the bracket off, but was able (with the help of a friend) to bend the bracket a bit, and pull it off the stud (after removing one of the other hold-down bolts for the hard line that bolts to the engine block). Remove the wheel-well liner, and reach through to pull that bracket off. If you put the axle on a jack stand, and pull the wheel off, you'll have even more room to work.

On an interesting note, the DD turbo prohibits you from getting to those two back turbo mounting bolts from underneath - you have to do it from the top. The back one is easily reached with an angled box-end wrench - the front was more difficult. Somehow (and I have no idea how) my buddy was able to get his fingers in there and get the nut started on the stud. I was then able (after removing the oil supply line) to get in there with the box wrench and tighten it up. So, if you want to go that route, you can get to the two back turbo bolts that way.

You'll need to disconnect the turbo oil return line from underneath (loosen the two hose clamps on the rubber hose, and work the hose off the turbo's tube).

Oh yeah - and DON'T forget to disconnect your batteries. You're going to be rubbing the back of the alternator with your ratchet, and it's amazingly easy to find that positive terminal

 

When you get to putting it back on, remember that the ports are symetrical, they are the same backwards. Take the old manifold and bolt the new one to it backwards, center first. Then rap the ends in to alignment til you can bolt them all together. After doing this, the manifold will bolt back up just like a stock manifold, no adjusting necessary on the truck.

 

Something I invested in to make those turbo bolts easier was a set of Mac BlackHawk ratcheting wrenches. While the inner rear bolt is still open end wrench material, the front inner bolt can be accessed with the ratching box end. It takes away alot of the frustration of these swaps

Rod

 

I'm swapping out the turbo at the same time and I'm thinking it would be easier just to leave the turbo attached and lift them out together. What do ya think?

 

A trick that was told to me and worked wonderful was to stick the male end of the manifold in the freezer over night and then when you are ready to mount in your trunk, heat the female end up with a torch and then slap them together. I found that little trick to be a life saver. I only had to hit them together with a rubber mallet 5-7 times.

 

I put mine in the refrig and it worked alot easier on the install. I ended up cutting my heater hose brkt and just made another that attached to the ATS boss on the manifold. Good luck and hopes it goes easy. It was a bit of a pain