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Problems with Superlift, LCA settings, anyone???

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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 12:33 PM
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Problems with Superlift, LCA settings, anyone???

Hey Guys,

I've had my Superlift 6" setup for almost a year now, and since day 1 I had one issue with it.

Truck seems to pull to the left all the time, not bad, but some. Had a clunk in it every once in a while over bumps, but its worse now. Went underneight it yesterday to check. I have not been home for a long time, so had to get down in the mud to go under the truck and look. Here is what I found, and I think the diff is sitting cockeyed in the truck. Here is why:

Pass. Side endlink is closer to the spring (real close) then drivers side, and this is where its hitting/clunking (pass endlink against spring). Tire is also closer to the bumper on the pass. side vs. drivers side, and further from the fender on the pass. side and closer on drivers side. This all tells me diff isnt' sitting straight, and, would make sence why it pulls left.

Second, looking at the lower control arm cam settings, One side is set different then the other. What exactly do these cam settings do?

The shop that installed it said will look at it, but i'm so busy that its hard for me to pit at home to get this done. I've always installed parts and worked on my cars myself in the past, but in the last 2 years I just have such limited time. The lift was the only thing I opted to farm out on this truck, and seems to be bitting me in the A S S.

Aside from poor quality bump stops, and this, the Superlift has been OK. I would go with better stuff next time, but at this point I just want to get this issue fixed. Has anyone else had these issues with their lifts?

Thanks for your help guys.

Igor.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 12:40 PM
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the cams adjust the caster of the axle. Sounds like the caster is either too much on the passenger side, or too little on the driver's side. Are either of them loose?

How different are they? It's not uncommon to find a little difference left to right on the cam settings to allow for variances in the frame/axle bracketry, but my guess is yours are set very different from eachother?
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 02:01 PM
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No, nothing is loose.

I uploaded some pics in my gallery, so when they get approved you guys can see them.

Dodge said alignment was ok. But I'm sure they did the 2 wheel alignment only (ie didnt' check to make sure front/rear alignment is ok if that's even possible on these trucks).

Tires have about 25k miles on them, seems to have a normal ware patter...I've rotated them a couple of times though. Since my recent trans/power mods, for some reason, the rear tires are slighly more worn.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 05:12 PM
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Pics approved now, so you guys can see the Cam settings on the LCA, and the endlink interferance.

Truck drove perfect when stock. This problem has been here since day1 of the lift.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 05:19 PM
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I dont know how much each mark on the cam bolts equates to in degrees, but the manual says you should have no more than .5 deg difference in caster between sides.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 05:25 PM
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well, it looks like the driver side has -3.5* caster and the passenger side has +2* caster. That would make it pull left! I would adjust one or the other so that both sides are the same (or close) and see how it drives. Mine are both set to about +2* or +3*
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff K
well, it looks like the driver side has -3.5* caster and the passenger side has +2* caster. That would make it pull left! I would adjust one or the other so that both sides are the same (or close) and see how it drives. Mine are both set to about +2* or +3*
Before adjusting, I'd ask myself why is one side +2 and the other -3.5? Something is f'ed up! Could the control arms be installed wrong? Could they be the wrong arms? I don't know anything about the Superlift kit, just throwing out things to check.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 06:04 PM
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Thats exactly what I think.

Either the adjustment is out, or, the arms are crap. I need to take them off and measure them. Could always try to change the settings and see. Can always put them back to where they were. Now if it just wasn't so muddy/raining here.

The shop that did it won't really do much about it. I have not pushed the subject, as I never have time to pit at home. But things like this remind me of why I never used to go to shops for anything other then gov. inspections. Had more time back then. But time to start doing it again.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 06:09 PM
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Set Caster closer to 5 degrees for the best stability. The only thing that adjusts the axle placement left to right is the length/angle of the "5th" control arm.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cquestad
Set Caster closer to 5 degrees for the best stability. The only thing that adjusts the axle placement left to right is the length/angle of the "5th" control arm.
What do you mean by 5th control arm? Track bar/steering parts or what?

Thanks.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 07:02 PM
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yeah, the trackbar.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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So anyone make an aftermarket or adj. track bar?

Thanks,

Igor.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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Thuren makes an adjustable track bar. Less than $300, and it'll be the last track bar you'll ever need.

If I were to venture a guess, your cross caster is way off.....1.5* is alot, you'd have to put a 600lb gorilla on the cam bolts to get that much bind in the axle (at least on a 2nd gen, maybe the 3rd gens twist easier....I've heard the AAM fronts aren't as strong as the D60).

Get a thrust angle alignment done, have them set the caster to 3.5*, 5* is too much unless you have caster shimmy or Death Wobble. If you have right hand crown roads, have them set the left side at 3.2*, that'll counter the road crown.

Did you do add a leafs or blocks on the back? If so, have the rear axle checked. Mine is off (right rear is forward about 1/4") and it pulls to the right.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 09:01 PM
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Cool, I'll try to get all that done.

Rear is blocks. I checked it as much as I could, seems ok, still though the front diff sits way off and the endlink hits.

I'll have to look into the track bar issues, I do not mind paying $300 for quality parts, at this point I just want to get the problem fixed.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 11:34 PM
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i looked at my truck just a minute ago, goo thing i did. my sway bar links are done. Pounded out. By the looks of Ur pics, you have 6" springs and 4" control arms. Also, my sway bar links are like 2" away from my springs. just a thought.
Here are the lengths for each lift.

4" Upper= #66-02-4645 17 7/8" long
4" Lower= #66-01-4645 19 1/16" long

6" Upper= #66-02-4645 18 5/8" long
6" Lower= #66-01-4645 20 1/16" long

I think i might ditch this lift and just buy a BDS. i here they are a better lift. Also Who did your lift?? If it was national 4WD, i can see y they wont help. If you need some one that is good with lifts and does awsome work, Call Trican Automotive in Crossfield. These guys do custom lifts, lift kit installs, auto motive work, etc. Talk to Shane. He would be able to help you out while ur back in town. He does all of the work on my truck and he is very reasonably priced. Hope this helps
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