Dave88LX

I have primarily used Pioneer in the past, I like their decks. I'm not opposed to trying something else though.

The Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD can be had on Amazon right now for $330; seems like a great price for the product.
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-P4.../dp/B0038BM7F4

The big thing about this unit vs. the 3200 and 5200 is the lack of Bluetooth.
Bluetooth users: Was this an essential part of your purchase when choosing a deck? I think I would like to have it, but don't think it's a deal-breaker.

The 3200 has the USB input on the front though which I don't like, and the smaller screen. The 5200 is a fold-up face, which I would rather have a Double-DIN and fill up all that dash space, plus it's $150 more and I'm not sure what more really I would be getting.

Are there other comparable units both feature/quality/price point that I should look into?

For someone who is building a system to drive to work and back with (50 mi round trip) and take road trips in, is the 'degradation of sound quality' in a DVD type unit vs. a unit built for SQ or whatever all that problematic? I don't plan on competing or anything of the sort.

I will need to pick up a NAV dash and the filler kit.

Have a friend trying to talk me into the AVIC line though. Hrmfff.

Dave88LX

The AVIC-Z120BT is looking really good at $949-$100 MIR.

Think I'm going to pull the trigger on a Nav dash tonight to get the ball rolling.

I see this one has the carbon fiber look to it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODGE...Q5fAccessories

I just looked at my truck, current trim ring though is a shiny silver, more like this one here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-07...Q5fAccessories

What I have:

BroncoAZ

I'm running the AVIC-Z110BT, I got it for about $700 when the Z120BT came out last spring. I think you'll be much happier with the AVIC line.

If you use an Ipod you will love the interface on the newer AVIC. I had the AVIC Z2 before, the new one blows it away.

I would recommend getting the Pioneer backup camera. I was able to mount it in my tailgate handle, but it might be easier if you have the tailgate spoiler.

Dave88LX

That's what I hear. Ironically, I went to Crutchfield again to look at the 4200, and I see it's been discontinued. I guess it's a sign. Don't really need NAV, but, I'm told the AVIC line is a better sounding line overall than the AVH.

Dave88LX

I swung by a local audio shop to check out the Focal line and whatever else they had for 6.5" components. I listened to something out of the Access line, and the Polyglass 165VB's. The Access sounded like flat muddy dogshit. The 165 VB's sounded great.

Pacific Stereo has the 165 VE's on sale right now for $319, so I might be leaning that way instead. Cheaper than the cheapest-priced VB's out there.
http://www.pacificstereo.com/focal-165-v30-xmas10.html

BroncoAZ

The woman got me the Boston SPZ60 components for xmas, I haven't installed them yet. I wanted to check out the Focal, but nobody carries them locally. I heard the Focal tweeters can be a bit harsh sounding, but I've heard others say that about Boston as well. $300 is the minimum I'd spend on any components, and plan an amp to power them as the head unit won't do them justice.

In the Mega I wouldn't bother with components in the rear doors, just a simple same brand coax for fill if you like that kind of sound, those could probably run off the head unit. I generally don't run rear speakers at all.

For subwoofers, the JL stealthbox is nice, but huge money. A pair of 10" subs behind the rear seat should be enough, but some people like more. I've got a pair of JL 10W3V2 in separate sealed enclosures in my regular cab. I was actually looking at getting a single JL 10W7 or even a 8W7. The pair of 10" I have now sound better when the windows are down, so I'm thinking there is too much woofer displacement for the small cab.

Dave88LX

I have heard people mention the same thing about Focal; but, I've heard something negative from someone about everything out there, so like you said, just have to give 'em a listen. I did hear one Boston set, don't recall which line, but it sounded good.

I have also had people tell me the same thing about the rear speakers. I'm just going to nix them. At least for now. Put the money into a better set of front components.

Funny you mention the windows being down, I was just reading about that here:
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/gener...dows-down.html

Agreed, that Stealth box is PRICY. When you figure you can get the 10W6s for $240-$250, that makes the box a $600-$700 box! Pacific Stereo said they'd sell the box to me for $900. Better, but still **** pricey.

BroncoAZ

I had the stealthbox in my first F-150. It was the one that fit inside the center console and looked incognito. It sounded great and basically disappeared in the truck. I thought about one for my Dodge, but the center console model entirely kills the middle seat.

At $900 I'd definately consider it. The $400 you are spending is not that much for a perfect fit and well engineered sound. I'd much rather pay it than break out the fiberglass to mold my own, BTDT.

With respect to the thread on the other forum, I'm running sealed enclosures that are within 2-3% of the target volume spec for the drivers. I think this truck is better sealed than previous trucks I've had. Sometimes I can feel my ears pressurize when I close the door. I made sure not to block or obstruct the vent in the back wall when doing the matting. I may try forcing the vents open and see if that makes a difference.

rock crawler

Dave88LX, here is my audio system thread. I have the carbon look dash and the AVIC stereo among other items. Just though it might give you some ideas.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=stereo+system

HMX-1

Wow, perfect timing.

I've been debating about upgrading my wife's truck ('06 SLT) since it didn't come with the popular electronics group, so the head unit and speakers are stock. I also just picked up an '04 1500 ST single cab short bed for my son and I've been told "its in dire need of some upgrades".

Definately a thread I need to keep on my radar.



Kris

Dave88LX

Lookin' good!

How much fun was it Dynmat'ing your whole interior? How difficult is removing everything to Dynamat it?

Love the way your subs/amps are mounted. That safe is a great idea too. Do you have the boxes mounted the floor of the truck? How did you attach them?

That safe is a sweet idea too.

Did you use the Metra, or American International install kit, and why? N/M, I see now you used Metra.

Great looking install though. How did you run your power and signal wires? Through the cab, or, poke it up from underneath?

rock crawler

Lookin' good!

How much fun was it Dynmat'ing your whole interior? How difficult is removing everything to Dynamat it?

A lot of work! Not really hard though, just time consuming.

Love the way your subs/amps are mounted. That safe is a great idea too. Do you have the boxes mounted the floor of the truck? How did you attach them?

Yes, the box is screwed into the floor from the sides with brackets and inside.

That safe is a sweet idea too.

Did you use the Metra, or American International install kit, and why? N/M, I see now you used Metra.

Great looking install though. How did you run your power and signal wires? Through the cab, or, poke it up from underneath?

Power is run through a gromet in the firewall and down one side of the truck on the floor under the carpet. RCAs are run down one side in the headliner.

BroncoAZ

I have gotten into the habit of running a substantially overkill power lead (1/0) the length of the truck, and tapping off it for the amp, and terminating with a QD plug for the receiver mounted winch. 1/0 fine strand welding cable is every bit as good as the Stinger cable, but the casing is also stronger and more resistant to chemicals. Under the truck I prefer the heavy duty solder type lug connectors, inside I use the Stinger distribution blocks. I use the bulkhead fittings through the floor to get the power into the cab: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1431/ Using these eliminates the need for a grommet, and at 3/8" they can handle plenty of current. I run a similar fitting for the ground and do a 1/0 strap from it to the frame. I fuse the main 12V line with a 300A ANL fuse in this holder: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...03-Chrome.html

For the signal wires I would definately keep them in the cab. I ran power on the driver's side frame rail (to keep it away from the heat of the turbo), so the signal wires went down the right side of the cab. They should fit nicely inside the factory molding under the carpet. One nice thing about stripping the carpet out for the matting, you can take your time and wire everything while it is still out.

I had a significant challenge mounting the amps in my regular cab. I didn't want a wall across the back as I needed to keep some storage space. I ended up welding a plate on the passenger seat bracket to clamshell the two amps under the one seat. It just fit with really no room to spare, but I was able to retain the OEM jack storage. See the pic below.

I would like to get one of those console safes as well, but I would prefer an electronic lock that uses a power door lock solenoid that would automatically lock or unlock it with the ignition key. I'd be concerned that if I ever needed to get to the gun quickly I couldn't manipulate the mechanical lock under pressure.

Dave88LX

Man, that is a badass idea. In the past I have just been using a pair of jumper cables hooked end-to-end on the ground to hook up my winch to. Have always wanted to just have power at the back of the truck to tap into. I really like the idea of that lug connector as well.

Let's see, so I would need something like this here -- 1/0 T-connector:
I would run 1x 1/0 to the back of the truck, then 1x 1/0 up into the cab, then run that into a 1/0 in, 2x 4AWG outs to each amp.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/viewP...&idcategory=26

Or, I could use something like this here --
Run 1/0 in, 1/0 to the rear, and pull 2x 4AWG up into the cab. That is probably more work, and needs 2 body lugs. Could just run 0/1 into the cab, and split that inside with a 0/4/4.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/viewP...&idcategory=26

Errr, just re-read and said you prefer soldered lugs under the truck; that does make more sense. Are you just running a Triple 1/0 T-lug? Where do you get that from? How difficult are those to use (solder in)? I've done plenty of regular soldering, but nothing on that scale.

Showoff--being allow to carry a gun! I miss Texas for that. Stupid Maryland.

I have heard lots of good reviews on the products from this place, that it's high quality and affordable:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/index.cfm

I will probably grab some stuff from there.

What is a QD plug?

Thanks again for the ideas.

Dave88LX

Regarding the sound deadening, tons of recommendations for the stuff from this place:
http://secondskinaudio.com/

I'm going to have to give it a look-see. Price looks comparable to Dynamat.