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Perimeter lighting - Video Demo

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Old 09-17-2009, 09:45 PM
  #136  
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fisherguy - got your package today - THANKS!!!!!

04ctd - absolutely awesome mod, can't say enough. that thing is "da bomb"!! It's perfect!

so i figured i would go ahead and share a little funny with you guys. i spent the better part of an hour scratchin' my head trying to find the second wire for the reverse lights on the trailer harness. wore out the financee with my "okay, now put it in reverse, okay, now back in park, now..."

so i finally gave up and discovered that it's the SAME wire

cool part is there's no substantial load cause the white night uses a relay and pulls from the hot wire on the 7 pin trailer harness

anyhow, it's working exactly how i wanted so no harm, no foul

also, i love how it doubles a courtesy lighting when i get out of the truck (doors auto unlock)


04ctd, you should really consider building some more of these. i would have paid $150-$200 knowing now how awesome this thing is!
Old 09-17-2009, 10:01 PM
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DOH!
I sold it too cheap!

I had that thing sitting in my desk for something like 2 years, I knew you were excited about getting it, but you've already installed it! That's great man!

Glad I could help
Will
Old 10-21-2011, 12:17 AM
  #138  
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Looks like I cam to the party to late - and with an 03.
Any mods to make this work with this truck? Or am I hanging in the wind? lol
Old 10-21-2011, 09:13 PM
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You may be able to contact the original maker.
I've had one on my truck for years now.
Old 10-21-2011, 10:38 PM
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I tried this on an 03, it did not work. It screwed all kinds of stuff up.
Old 10-22-2011, 08:06 AM
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mad is right we tried it on a 03 and it did not go well


I can't remember what happened
I can tell you how to make your own test it out yourself
Old 10-22-2011, 10:51 AM
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CEL's, gauge cluster dark, headlights would not work, lots of light problems.

It's the theater lighting. I think 05 and down it would not work on unless you changed some wiring.
Old 10-22-2011, 11:03 AM
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I remember

and 03 has opera lighting

the lights do not go out they dim very slowly

Would not work
Old 11-07-2011, 10:24 PM
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Not really what I wanted to hear but thanks for the responses. I'll see what else I can come up with.
Old 11-08-2011, 06:15 PM
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have you condsidered making another batch of these even if the price goes up some it would be cool
Old 02-13-2013, 11:03 AM
  #146  
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gonna bump this, and tonite,

I will load up all the pictures & directions I have for this mod.

it's pretty simple, and it is flat out awesome, especially as a "security light" at night, if my dogs start barking, hit the button & this thing will light up the front & back yard pretty good.
Old 02-13-2013, 09:00 PM
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Here is Revision 7 of the instructions, they were in a WORD doc, so instead of finding a way to host it, I just C&P it here:





----------------------------


It is one50 Amp relay, that will mount by the driver side battery, attach B+ lead tothat battery, and to the ground there in the rear corner. the input B+ is fusedat 20 amps

It has 6 feet of white wire(fused at 5 amps) to attach to the cargolamp input on the A Pillar. This ensuresthat if you cut that wire, or it wears thru, it will not hurt the cargo lightcircuit. The fuse goes inside theA-pillar. It is made to be very smalland lay flat.
It has 5 feet of each blueoutput wire (it's ~4 feet to fogs, and ~4 feet to back up lights)
There is a single out put offthe relay, one blue wire, that splits into 2 power diodes and 2 blue wires. The diodes have enough current capability tomelt that 20-amp fuse. Neither the Relaynor the diode should ever fail; the fuse should protect the circuit.

The diodes separate the fog,backup, and cargo light circuits. thecargo and fog lights are controlled by Logic and could possibly be harmed byback feeding voltage thru the truck (not likely, but it's better to safe)

if you have the truck inreverse, (working with a trailer) and are using the cargo light button to lightup the reverse lights while hooking up the trailer, and you have the fog lightson, truck in reverse, and the cargo light turned on, all those circuits areSTILL electrically separated by the diodes.

You will receive:
--the relay, with the power, ground, and diodes and blue wires attached.
--the white wire, with fuse installed, and other end bare. One crimp on terminal
--instructions with pictures and PDF's of each circuit from the Dodge ServiceManual

Basic install:
--run white wire from A-pillar thru firewall (will be a pic in theinstructions)
--crimp on terminal, plug in to open spot on Relay.
--Run blue wire down to back of driver side foglite
--run other blue wire down to reverse/back up light harness
--hook up relay ground & battery.


Post 110 on the Thread said this:
I tied into the fogsunder the fuse box next to the battery.
Way easier and no longwire runs.

fogs were white w/thin yellow line.
they were in thecenter connecter of the three big ones.


The fog light wire is there, but the Reverse light powerleaves the fuse box, and goes to the tranmission switch, so tapping into theReverse lights there, won’t illuminate the Reverse lights, unless theTransmission is in Reverse
The cargo light should be White and Tan stripeper PDF 8w-40-11
the fog should be white and yellow stripe per PDF 8w-50-5
the backup lamps should be white with a lime green stripe per PDF 8w-51-6
(These PDF’s are in theInstructions Folder)

If you do not have a CHILTONs or other way to identifythe wire colors and functions on your truck, you can go here (if your truck isnewer) and figure it out:

http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/index.html



Here is how to verify themwith a Multimeter:

Find the CORRECT wire for the Cargo LampInput:


In the 2006 drawings, thewire is “WT/TN” which should be WHITE and TAN.


Take out the cargo light (twoPhillips), easy, if you do not have a bed cover.

Look at the two wires going to the two cargo lights.
One will be ground, one will be Hot.
My 2006 CTD had the Whitewith Tan Stripe as HOT for the cargo light.
As reported by Jay:
On my '06 the cargo light wire iswhite/chocolate brown


When you break apart the A-Pillar, the connector going down into the dash isthe power source.

When you cycle the cargo light, the +12vdc will NOT go away, unless you have itplugged in (plugging in the light lets the voltage go thru the bulb)

I bent a straight needle andstuck that in along the wire to read the voltage, rolled DOWN the window, shutdoor, and cycled remote with key, and watched the Multimeter and the cargolight.

Jay used a simple test lightto verify all his wires.


Find the CORRECT wire for the Back upLamps:


In the 2006 drawings, thewire is “WT/LG” which should be WHITE and LIGHT GREEN.

You will have to use a Multimeter to find the correct wire for the back uplights


SET THE EMERGENCY BRAKE, turnkey on, (do NOT crank the engine) and put the transmission in reverse.
Visually verify the reverse lights are ON.

Then, bend a needle/safety pin, and go along side the wires into the connectoruntil you find +12vdc.

The problem we had is that someone set in the truck, and held the brakes.
if they do that, lay the meter where you can see it, crawl out from under, andthen have them cycle the brakes and see what the +12vdc does.
If the 12v cycles, then youhave the brake lights and not the back up lights.


Find the CORRECT wire for the Foglights:


In the 2006 drawings, thewire is “WT/YL” which should be WHITE and YELLOW.



There is connector just tothe left of the driver side fog light with two wires.
Bend a needle/safety pin, andgo along side the wires into the connector until you find +12vdc. The black wire is usually ground, the lightercolored wire is positive.


Detailed install instructions:


Wrap the blue & white wires lengthwise in electricaltape (or cover in flex loom or heat shrink) to protect it from damage and heat.

Flex loom: http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom/colored.html

1. Use a pocketknife to pull out the covers over theA-Pillar bolts. Once removed,
Tilt the steering wheel down, and pull on the top of theA-pillar. Two 10mm bolts hold it in, andtwo steel clips (see pics for location). There are locating tabs on the bottom during re-assembly. See pics.

2. Ease the connectoraway from the pillar, pry the yellow/clear plastic piece away from theconnector, and remove the connector from the pillar. Disconnect it.

3. Locate the proper wire for the cargo light.

4. Either use ascotch lock, http://www.imperialinc.com/items.asp?item=0712590
or strip a section of wire, wrap the end of the white wire(with the fuse) around that, solder, wrap with tape, put wire back in bundle, and tie wrap thatwire to the bundle, putting the tie wrap over the attached piece for addedphysical strength. Putting a small tiewrap around your tape will keep it from coming apart in the summer heat.

5. Run the white wire down the pillar, thru the dash. Make a VERY small hole in the rubber grommetin the pictures, and push the white wire through the grommet. Stay as close to the center as possible, sothe white wire does not hit the body due to vibration over time. You can pull that grommet out from theinside, and work with it (pics in folder). Put some Chap Stick or grease on it, and it will push right back in. Alternatively, you can use the clutch panel,unbolt, drill a hole in it, and pass through it.

6. Pull the red terminal off the relay, crimp it on thewhite wire, and put it back on the terminal.

7. Take the ground lug loose, and put the black ground wireunder it, retighten.

8. Backup lights: run the blue wire down the fender wellliner to the connector behind the front wheel. Once you get it ran down there, you can pull & work it over to laybeside the fender.

9. Locate the proper wire for backup lights. Thatconnector is a “Cam Lock” fastener; you have to roll the handle to release itfor more working room. See pics of CamLocks.

10. Either use ascotch lock, or strip a section of wire, wrap the end of the wire around,solder, wrap with tape, put wire backin bundle, and wrap that wire to the bundle, over the tape and attached wire foradded physical strength.

12. Fog lights: run the blue wire forward, it can go outsidethe battery, in the fender, and come back out of the fender by the fuse box. Run it down by the washer fluid bottle.

13. The fog light connector is at the rear of the driver sidefog light. See picture. The white wire is positive (verify colors onback of fog lamp bulb) and the dark wire is ground. Both Fog lights are powered off this one connection;there is a splice under the driver side fog light.

14. Either use ascotch lock, or strip a section of wire, wrap the end of the wire around that,solder, wrap with tape, put wire backin bundle, and wrap that wire to the bundle, over the tape and attached wire foradded physical strength.

15. Verify all connections are tight, taped up, andelectrically and physically sound to withstand vibration and weather.

16. Remove battery Positive terminal, and put on black fusedlead from the Relay.
Tighten battery terminal.

17. Roll down driver side window. Shut all doors.

18. Test module from behind truck with remote.

19. Test module from instrument panel switch.

20. Fog lights and backup lights should illuminate anytimethe cargo light over the bed is illuminated.

21. Tie wrap the relay to the OEM wiring harness, tie wrapthe wires coming off the relay, and tie wrap the diodes to support them duringvehicle operation.

Troubleshooting:


Verify you have +12v on the white wire terminal on the relay. (This verifies the 5-amp fuse) and that youhave a good connection to the cargo lamp.

To check the fuse on the battery lead; verify you have +12von the relay of the terminal (this makes sure the fuse housing is good and hasa good connection)

Verify you have a good ground (take a resistance readingfrom the ground terminal on the relay to the ground lug)

Verify power out put on the blue wire relay terminal, andafter the diodes: Pierce each blue with a needle, and verify you have voltageflowing through the diodes.
Old 02-13-2013, 09:04 PM
  #148  
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I loaded up 38 pictures here:

http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...eter_lighting/

this link should show ALL the pics, but sometimes it don't work as well:
http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ing/?start=all

if you go to the PB page, and click on the pic twice, it comes up much larger.

here's the schematic:


here's the basic relay wired up:




the pics have words in them, describing something:



good luck!!
I think it will only work from 2004 to 2006.
Old 02-13-2013, 09:07 PM
  #149  
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Are you back in business?
Old 02-14-2013, 07:30 AM
  #150  
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No sir.

I get a PM or question on this every few months, so I thought i would just post up everything I had on it.

it's pretty easy to make, and as long as you fuse everything, and use big enough diodes, it works pretty well.
maybe use two diodes to handle the current, if you can't find big diodes.


I think this is the single best modification I ever did to my truck.

you could lock it on with the Bed light switch for working on stuff in the yard/driveway, or for hooking up trailers,

having it light up is a big security feature for women.


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