Nitrous
11-20-2006, 06:32 PM
#32
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Sorry for the mix up Masonic. Seems we sent replies at the same time. I was refferring to differing in oppinion with Luken. I aggree 100% with what you stated with regards to the hobbs switch in relation to boost pressure.
11-20-2006, 06:47 PM
#33
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I know I'm swimming up the conventional wisdom stream, but I'm not talking about a huge hit of nitrous at low rpm 
which is well-known to break parts.
What's the main advantage of supercharging over turbocharging?
... near instantaneous boost at low RPM - and nitrous is probably the best all-around chemical supercharger.
I'll still use #2 to make the power, but an appropriately-sized shot of spray to get the engine out of the hole and up on it's torque plateau; and enough of a shot, even in stages, to clean up the smoke.
The long block shouldn't complain, it'll just be churning out max torque hundreds of RPM earlier....
which is well-known to break parts.What's the main advantage of supercharging over turbocharging?
... near instantaneous boost at low RPM - and nitrous is probably the best all-around chemical supercharger.
I'll still use #2 to make the power, but an appropriately-sized shot of spray to get the engine out of the hole and up on it's torque plateau; and enough of a shot, even in stages, to clean up the smoke.
The long block shouldn't complain, it'll just be churning out max torque hundreds of RPM earlier....
11-20-2006, 07:08 PM
#35
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Well, I guess I do need to update my best times in sig also, cause I took my speed sensor fuse out and ran the last time at the track and my new best is 12.54@111.2mph still on street tires.
11-20-2006, 07:17 PM
#36
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I know I've said this before, but lets look at it this way. Lets say you are building 15lbs of boost at the line. The 3rd yellow lights and you let off the brake and stomp the GO pedal at the same time. By the time your tire turns over one time your nitrous is spraying!!!! Thats if your hobbs switch is set at 20-25lbs It will only take a split second to reach enough boost to the hobbs switch to turn the NO2 on.
Remember that you need to have a "Full Throttle" switch also. By having both switches you have a safe system. At the end of the track when you let off the throttle the NO2 will turn off even if the boost is over the hobbs switch setting. If you don't have a F/T switch when you let of the pedal at the end of the track the fuel stops going into the engine but the NO2 still flows because the boost pressure is over the hobbs switch setting(this is the way people lift the head off the block or burn holes in the top of pistons
The most importain thing is to run both switches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CRIS
Remember that you need to have a "Full Throttle" switch also. By having both switches you have a safe system. At the end of the track when you let off the throttle the NO2 will turn off even if the boost is over the hobbs switch setting. If you don't have a F/T switch when you let of the pedal at the end of the track the fuel stops going into the engine but the NO2 still flows because the boost pressure is over the hobbs switch setting(this is the way people lift the head off the block or burn holes in the top of pistons
The most importain thing is to run both switches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CRIS
11-20-2006, 07:36 PM
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Expert? LOL.
To me a safe setup is exactly like you posted... comes on @ WOT and after a certain boost pressure. To make it easier on the top turbocharger I begin to spray after my external WG begins to open. This lessens the shock on the shaft of the weenie HX-40 I run. With up to ~100-125 hp I think you can get away with a single stage, turned on with a hobbs, and not hurt anything with studs on a MLS gasket. A larger pill than that needs to go to a 2nd stage or turned on progressiviely or you will see both traction and shock loading issues over time (popped gaskets, turbos, driveline parts, etc etc.) Absolultely run a heater and a guage, and if you can get one that sets its own pressure, that's even better. A .040 jet will probably get you ~50hp on a single charger depending on fueling, etc. If you're on the edge with timing on #2 only then I suggest you back it off to spray since cylinder pressures shoot up on the bottle.
To me a safe setup is exactly like you posted... comes on @ WOT and after a certain boost pressure. To make it easier on the top turbocharger I begin to spray after my external WG begins to open. This lessens the shock on the shaft of the weenie HX-40 I run. With up to ~100-125 hp I think you can get away with a single stage, turned on with a hobbs, and not hurt anything with studs on a MLS gasket. A larger pill than that needs to go to a 2nd stage or turned on progressiviely or you will see both traction and shock loading issues over time (popped gaskets, turbos, driveline parts, etc etc.) Absolultely run a heater and a guage, and if you can get one that sets its own pressure, that's even better. A .040 jet will probably get you ~50hp on a single charger depending on fueling, etc. If you're on the edge with timing on #2 only then I suggest you back it off to spray since cylinder pressures shoot up on the bottle.
11-20-2006, 08:10 PM
#41
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Hey I got it right
I've been watching Banshee run his truck and have seen how nice of a system he has
I also got to do a little work on his truck with him, that was fun.
Just to let everyone know. From what I understand, Banshee has the fastest CTD 6sp in the country Banshee has a clean, simple, and reliable NO2 system that he built and designed himself and has never given him any problems.
His truck ROCKS on or off the NO2
CRIS
I've been watching Banshee run his truck and have seen how nice of a system he has I also got to do a little work on his truck with him, that was fun.Just to let everyone know. From what I understand, Banshee has the fastest CTD 6sp in the country
Banshee has a clean, simple, and reliable NO2 system that he built and designed himself and has never given him any problems.His truck ROCKS on or off the NO2
CRIS
11-20-2006, 08:41 PM
#43
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Thanks Cris 
SS, I effectively have a .066 jet (I have 2 nozzles). On the dyno it gives 85rwhp. On the track I pick up ~ 3/4 second on the bottle. A good portion of that gain is from killing any and all lag between shifts, so I don't think an auto will see quite as much of a time gain for a given power amount added.
SS, I effectively have a .066 jet (I have 2 nozzles). On the dyno it gives 85rwhp. On the track I pick up ~ 3/4 second on the bottle. A good portion of that gain is from killing any and all lag between shifts, so I don't think an auto will see quite as much of a time gain for a given power amount added.
11-20-2006, 08:54 PM
#44
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Hey - I'm with you guys on boost-launching a slushbox, especially in 4WD; but I'm in Banshee's boat with my 6-speed: I don't mind coming out of the hole at 2K RPM, but I don't see slipping the clutch enough to get significant boost even line-locked... that's why I want to chemically supercharge the intake manifold before the turbo has a chance to spool.
Are you guys with nitrous running dry or wet systems?
Mine will be dry.
On a related note, why would NO2 injection after release of WOT cause catastophic engine carnage? There'd be no fuel to make things too hot to handle...
Are you guys with nitrous running dry or wet systems?
Mine will be dry.
On a related note, why would NO2 injection after release of WOT cause catastophic engine carnage? There'd be no fuel to make things too hot to handle...
11-20-2006, 09:00 PM
#45
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I don't know anyone with a diesel running a wet system. They all run a dry system. Thats the best thing about running NO2 on a diesel because as long as you have smoke coming out of the exhaust you can run NO2. The more smoke the more NO2
CRIS
CRIS