3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

new valair ceramic-kevlar now rattles at idle bad

Old Dec 16, 2008 | 07:15 AM
  #16  
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From: corpus christi texas
well what about adding some lucas oil to the tranny?if i can just make it somewhat quieter i could probably live with it. is there a way to change my idle rpms to 900 instead of 800???
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 08:53 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by banks twinram
took me 2.5 hrs to do it by myself. so i think im pretti good mechanic.
i dont wanna sound like a Edit but...............you couldnt do the job from start to finish correctly in 2.5 hours if you had 6 arms.
btw ill take the bet.........i can use the money!
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 09:16 AM
  #18  
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hell i even had me a whiskey drink and was doing it with the truck flat on the floor. give me a lift i could do it in 2 hrs flat, your just slow. bet? your on. money on the table first. if it wasnt 4x4 i could do it even faster. oh and by the way, trash talk is worthless. so please dont do it again. dont make me make a video of me pulling it all apart again and put back together and post it on youtube just to prove a point. but i may have to..
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 09:19 AM
  #19  
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poo talker..........
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 09:30 AM
  #20  
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Come on guys...

The dual mass flywheel was built to help protect the transmission from the diesel spikes and make a more comfortable ride. Look at the earlier 5.9 with the NV 5600 transmission, no DMF but adequately dampened clutch disc and no noise. Face it, the common rail motors run much quieter then the 2nd gens so any alteration with the dampening can result in neutral noise. The reason it is more prevalent at neutral in idle is the pulses at the crank are at there greatest. As soon as you R it up the pulse numbs out. We originally tried to put the HD hub in the trucks equipped with the G 56 trans and had many complaints of the noise. We switched back to the LUK design and got rid of the problem. We have been working very hard on a redesign of the HD hubs and are very close. Installed our first one last week and got rid of about 75% of it. It boils down to the amount of free travel supplied by the dampened portion of the clutch disc. If the pulse is greater then the offered rotation of the clutch disc, the noise is heard. It is not just side to side but more in one direction then the other. Also the hubs in the conventional OEM design are what you would call a helix style. This means the hub itself that slides onto the input shaft is actually independent from the rest of the disc. You can actually wiggle the hub around by itself. This hub has a second set of teeth around the outside that spline into the drive section that contains the springs. This feature also helps to quiet things down that cannot be duplicated in the spicer style of disc. You must realize that the G 56 trans is all aluminum and therefor you will be able to hear a lot more then the earlier cast iron designs.

I don't know if I explained this very well but feel free to call if you want more information.

Peter
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 01:25 PM
  #21  
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if i keep driving it like this will it wear the gears out in my tranny from clanking like that? if not ill just drive it i guess. or ill just wait till that new sb clutch comes out that hes talking about.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 03:00 PM
  #22  
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i have a valair ceramic it holds really well but chatters like you describe. i have had it in for 2 years now
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 05:41 PM
  #23  
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From: Used to be missoula, montana: Now in Sonoma County California
Originally Posted by gotslicks
i dont wanna sound like a Edit but...............you couldnt do the job from start to finish correctly in 2.5 hours if you had 6 arms.
btw ill take the bet.........i can use the money!
You'll loose the bet.

If i have a spare flywheel ready which i usually insist on. it is 3 hours or less start to finish ......out and back in and that is in my driveway including at least two beer breaks.

the dual mass flywheel rigs take me a hair longer but pretty std 3 hours max with a tranny jack these 03+ trucks come apart and go together really fast.

I know my truck almost had a zipper on it when we did the clutch last jan. was done in 2 hours flat funny how rain and doing the job outside will move things along..... you just have to know how to use an impact, extensions, swivels and which bolts to pull and when its all sequence and preparation.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 06:43 PM
  #24  
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fly me out and back and if you succeed on my terms at 2.5 hours
ill pay you for the travel expenses and give you 80$ an hr for your 2.5 hrs!
seriously no joke! maybe even more $ if i can get some sponsors to kick in!
this will be a fun time,meet new people make new friends.

im sure someone on this board needs a clutch changed in your area........hell ya! free clutch change while you wait!
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 11:11 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ddestruel
You'll loose the bet.

If i have a spare flywheel ready which i usually insist on. it is 3 hours or less start to finish ......out and back in and that is in my driveway including at least two beer breaks.

the dual mass flywheel rigs take me a hair longer but pretty std 3 hours max with a tranny jack these 03+ trucks come apart and go together really fast.

I know my truck almost had a zipper on it when we did the clutch last jan. was done in 2 hours flat funny how rain and doing the job outside will move things along..... you just have to know how to use an impact, extensions, swivels and which bolts to pull and when its all sequence and preparation.
I have no doubt at all. With air tools and a tranny jack I had my last clutch out in 1/2 hour. They are cake and anyone who does these for a living knows this. The amount of labor and cost some shops charge to change them are ridiculous. I have no doubt you had it done in 2 hrs. You know what its all about.
Crawl under there with a rail of med. depth metrics, stubby met. wrenches, 3/8 gun, prybar and tranny jack. The top is easy too, 1/4 ratchet, 6" extension. A gear wrench makes the transfer case removal a lot quicker, theres no room to get sockets on a few nuts. The last time I made 3 guide studs to align the tranny.... it slid right in with no issues.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 11:40 AM
  #26  
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thanks for backing me up ddestruel.
i dont even take the transfer case off... use gear wrench on the front driveshaft.
the hardest part about the whole thing is getting to the the gear shifter and getting it off hell, you'll be paying for someone elses free clutch change!! not me. who wants to drive to corpus christi texas for a free clutch swap? i got 2 more clutches lined up alredy. a 2 wheel drive and another 4x4 why would u take the t-case off? where do you live gotslicks?? do i need to video tape a documentary and grow 4 arms and show you how its done???
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #27  
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From: corpus christi texas
and i want 50 bucks for every minute under 150.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 12:54 PM
  #28  
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I take the t-case off because I have a crappy tranny jack and it hits when I lower it. As an added bonus, it gives me the opportunity to check things over that I cannot normally see. I know those 4wd boosted launches at the track are killing something.... I just have not found it yet.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:56 PM
  #29  
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my tranny jack is bad ***. got adjustable lean and tilt and swivel handle. crazy wheels all the way around. and jaks up the g56 &t-case up just fine but needs a little help with the 5600&t-case at same time. i always wanted to try a 4x4 launch in my 1 ton ford. but i was always too chicken. 35's with locker just boil for about 30 seconds and i go like 10 feet. not to mention cant keep it straight. does some mean donuts tho. im going to put a locker and traction bars in my 1/2 ton and see if i can get some 4th-5th gear clutch dumps out of it. now it just hops when i dump it. **** fords...
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 06:35 PM
  #30  
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if you wanna play buy some rules ill will get this bet rolling and i will get all the legal stuff drawn up so you cant flake on the bet.
it will have to be a stock 4x4 quadcab with a crossmember and we will be taking the dual mass out swap in normal f wheel.
you will need to torque things to spec on the install 4 this bet. not everything but stiff like bell and flywheel and clutch and all the important stuff.
if you spill any fluids you will have to fill back to spec.
all your tools need to be where they are normally in your garage and the clock starts when you get in the truck to bring it in to work on it. NO PRE PREP
we can work out all the details


i want it done to spec so it will last the life of the truck......

also
you will have to take the beer break again.......cups and stuff where they normally were
and
no running or fast walking this time..........do it like you did the first time just take it easy....no need to hurry.........the job pays 5.8 hrs with a crossmember
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