hey guys tried the search deal anyone have a link or place i can go for detailed instructions on a head stud install for a 06 going to try to install mine this weekend

 

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/Tech.html

i have not done a detailed search but here is a start

 

Heard from some diesel mechanics that you can torq the stock studs to 125 and run safely 60psi. Any thoughts on this

 

the 12mm studs are tq'd to 125 ftlbs and the aged 625+ are at 165 ftlbs (i think).

 

I did a search on this site when I did my studs and got all of the info I needed. Are you planning on just doing one at a time or are you going to pull the head? I dont know of the instructions are different for brands other than ARP but the ARP studs are pretty straight forward. The only thing you need to watch for is the longer studs go on the outside of the valve cover and also the very back stud will contact the rocker box that spaces the valve cover away from the head. The part that contacts the stud is easily trimed, I used a dremel and a carbide bit and then washed the shavings off before I reinstalled it. Hope this helps. If you have any questions, fell free to pm me.
Evan

 

you all are great im going to do them one at a time also i have read an artical in the diesel mags where they were running stock head bolts with no rings and a stock gasket to 100psi and they say they have done this on several rigs that run at the drags with no problems just have to deck the head and block.

 

So how much boost is safe when you do the studs one at a time and use the factory head gasket?

 

Try retorqing your stock studs to 125. Heard of alot of guys running high HP at the Redding event with no aftermarket studs, just retorq and have no issues. specially if you have never had the head off. Learned this from a very well known company who specializes in twins and aftermarket heads and a semi local well known shop making some high HP trucks. Worth a try, if it leaks later down the road then aftermarket studs can go in

 

ATS diesel performance website has detailed instructions.

Work from the center of the head outward.

torque in stages: 50,90,110, 125

idle truck until it reaches normal temp

retorque to 125lbs.

After a week or two of normal driving retorque the studs again to 125lbs.

Use moly lube when installing.

These are for ARP head studs (not 625 head studs, but the standard 2402)

I can run 64lbs of boost without problem. Others say they run higher levels.

ARP has instructions with their studs. Retorque after several heat cycles. Very important.

 

Here's some useful info, http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...tallation.html

 

The stock head bolts can be retorqued for better clamping with good success. ARP studs will clamp the head tighter being higher strength and having fine threads. When you put the same torque on a course thread bolt and a stud with fine threads and a hardened washer the stud is going to have much more clamping force. It's going to take more pressure to stretch the higher strength stud and lift the head. If you are not replacing the head gaskit a retorque may not be necessary with the gaskit being seasoned.

 

No problems with the truck in question that I am refering to. 60,000 miles never any head or gasket problems, head never off. I am sure retorqing factory studs will have good succes. Truck same year as mine with similar mods