Manual to Auto Conversion COMPLETE
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 502
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From: Calgary, AB
Manual to Auto Conversion COMPLETE
I recently finished my manual to auto conversion and I must say it was a lot easier than I first thought.
My Parts LIst:
NADP Race Tranny w/ TQ Converter
ATS Standalone Controller & Valve Body
Suncoast Flexplate
Stock Tranny Cooler (Rad Mount)
Stock Tranny Cooler Lines
Auxillary B&M Tranny Cooler
Lokar Transmission Mounted Floor Shifter
Bell Housing Adapter Plate (Auto)
Input Shaft/Gear change on Xfer Case
Longer Rear Driveshaft
Clutch Master Cylinder Cover Plate
The conversion is pretty straight forward. You need to change the input shaft/gear on your transfer case because the auto has a 23 spline output shaft and the manual has a 29 spline shaft. You also need to change out the bell housing adapter plate because there is a spacer built into the manual adapter plate that puts the started too far away and it won't engage (don't ask me how I know). The stock rad mounted tranny cooler bolts right in, and the stock tranny cooler lines route fairly easily. I opted not to install the water/oil cooler above the starter, and just made up a couple fittings to connect the two lines together. I also put a tee in that spot for my tranny temp gauge.
Once the tranny was in, I hooked up the cooler lines and the standalone tranny controller, tapped the TPS sensor and MAP sensor for the controller, wired up power and routed the laptop cable into the cab and away I went. The ATS Standalone tranny controller is flat out awesome. I can't think of anything you can't do with this thing. I have to thank Joel at ATS for answering my questions...he has been great to deal with.
There are photos in my TDR gallery if you are interested.
My Parts LIst:
NADP Race Tranny w/ TQ Converter
ATS Standalone Controller & Valve Body
Suncoast Flexplate
Stock Tranny Cooler (Rad Mount)
Stock Tranny Cooler Lines
Auxillary B&M Tranny Cooler
Lokar Transmission Mounted Floor Shifter
Bell Housing Adapter Plate (Auto)
Input Shaft/Gear change on Xfer Case
Longer Rear Driveshaft
Clutch Master Cylinder Cover Plate
The conversion is pretty straight forward. You need to change the input shaft/gear on your transfer case because the auto has a 23 spline output shaft and the manual has a 29 spline shaft. You also need to change out the bell housing adapter plate because there is a spacer built into the manual adapter plate that puts the started too far away and it won't engage (don't ask me how I know). The stock rad mounted tranny cooler bolts right in, and the stock tranny cooler lines route fairly easily. I opted not to install the water/oil cooler above the starter, and just made up a couple fittings to connect the two lines together. I also put a tee in that spot for my tranny temp gauge.
Once the tranny was in, I hooked up the cooler lines and the standalone tranny controller, tapped the TPS sensor and MAP sensor for the controller, wired up power and routed the laptop cable into the cab and away I went. The ATS Standalone tranny controller is flat out awesome. I can't think of anything you can't do with this thing. I have to thank Joel at ATS for answering my questions...he has been great to deal with.
There are photos in my TDR gallery if you are interested.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, AB
It's not cheap, but here is how I justified it.
If I started with an auto truck, to hold the power I have I would need:
Flex Plate $500
Built Tranny with TQ Conv & VB $6000
Lockup Controller $500
So basically it cost me an extra $1500 for all the other parts and pieces, plus my time to do the work. Not too bad.
If I started with an auto truck, to hold the power I have I would need:
Flex Plate $500
Built Tranny with TQ Conv & VB $6000
Lockup Controller $500
So basically it cost me an extra $1500 for all the other parts and pieces, plus my time to do the work. Not too bad.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: VA beach
what did you do with your manual? I've been toying with idea of coverting mine to a manual. only reason I got an auto was my wife said she can't drive stick, she hasn't driven my truck twice in a year.
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
I recently finished my manual to auto conversion and I must say it was a lot easier than I first thought.
My Parts LIst:
NADP Race Tranny w/ TQ Converter
ATS Standalone Controller & Valve Body
Suncoast Flexplate
Stock Tranny Cooler (Rad Mount)
Stock Tranny Cooler Lines
Auxillary B&M Tranny Cooler
Lokar Transmission Mounted Floor Shifter
Bell Housing Adapter Plate (Auto)
Input Shaft/Gear change on Xfer Case
Longer Rear Driveshaft
Clutch Master Cylinder Cover Plate
The conversion is pretty straight forward. You need to change the input shaft/gear on your transfer case because the auto has a 23 spline output shaft and the manual has a 29 spline shaft. You also need to change out the bell housing adapter plate because there is a spacer built into the manual adapter plate that puts the started too far away and it won't engage (don't ask me how I know). The stock rad mounted tranny cooler bolts right in, and the stock tranny cooler lines route fairly easily. I opted not to install the water/oil cooler above the starter, and just made up a couple fittings to connect the two lines together. I also put a tee in that spot for my tranny temp gauge.
Once the tranny was in, I hooked up the cooler lines and the standalone tranny controller, tapped the TPS sensor and MAP sensor for the controller, wired up power and routed the laptop cable into the cab and away I went. The ATS Standalone tranny controller is flat out awesome. I can't think of anything you can't do with this thing. I have to thank Joel at ATS for answering my questions...he has been great to deal with.
There are photos in my TDR gallery if you are interested.
My Parts LIst:
NADP Race Tranny w/ TQ Converter
ATS Standalone Controller & Valve Body
Suncoast Flexplate
Stock Tranny Cooler (Rad Mount)
Stock Tranny Cooler Lines
Auxillary B&M Tranny Cooler
Lokar Transmission Mounted Floor Shifter
Bell Housing Adapter Plate (Auto)
Input Shaft/Gear change on Xfer Case
Longer Rear Driveshaft
Clutch Master Cylinder Cover Plate
The conversion is pretty straight forward. You need to change the input shaft/gear on your transfer case because the auto has a 23 spline output shaft and the manual has a 29 spline shaft. You also need to change out the bell housing adapter plate because there is a spacer built into the manual adapter plate that puts the started too far away and it won't engage (don't ask me how I know). The stock rad mounted tranny cooler bolts right in, and the stock tranny cooler lines route fairly easily. I opted not to install the water/oil cooler above the starter, and just made up a couple fittings to connect the two lines together. I also put a tee in that spot for my tranny temp gauge.
Once the tranny was in, I hooked up the cooler lines and the standalone tranny controller, tapped the TPS sensor and MAP sensor for the controller, wired up power and routed the laptop cable into the cab and away I went. The ATS Standalone tranny controller is flat out awesome. I can't think of anything you can't do with this thing. I have to thank Joel at ATS for answering my questions...he has been great to deal with.
There are photos in my TDR gallery if you are interested.
U R ballsy. I dig it.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, AB
The controller is an ATS SelectShift Standalone transmission controller. It is a controller and valve body combo that must be used together. It is perfect for guys doing conversions because you don't need any of the factory auto wiring or ecm to make it work. The standalone controller can be programmed with a laptop to do absolutely anything. You can build your own shift point tables and lockup tables. It is pretty cool.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 6,259
Likes: 1
From: Utah
The controller is an ATS SelectShift Standalone transmission controller. It is a controller and valve body combo that must be used together. It is perfect for guys doing conversions because you don't need any of the factory auto wiring or ecm to make it work. The standalone controller can be programmed with a laptop to do absolutely anything. You can build your own shift point tables and lockup tables. It is pretty cool.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,540
Likes: 0
From: Boise, Idaho
I have ridden in Joel's truck...and the standalone is AMAZING. It shift like a sprts car...downshift...upshifts...always spot on. The programing can take more input signals from everything from boost to egt if you want...to create your own shift programing.
If I had the money...
If I had the money...
