Leveling kit question
I did the 2" leveling kit and it took two hours. Never had the truck aligned afterwards and used the stock shocks. Truck drive exactly the way it dis stock. Tires are wearing exactly the same also. Some guys may have a different experience, but mine was easy, no need for the alignment, but my truck only had 18K miles on it when I did the leveling kit. Maybe other trucks were in need of an alignment but it was very noticeable until the added the spacers? Scotty
I had my kit put on my truck at about 2300 miles so it was still brand new, even from the factorty, the alignment was not great, I found out that over all it was about 8% off from the factory recomended specs (11% in the front and 5% in the rear). The positive castor is to keep the wobble from occurring. I had the same kit installed on my 04 Hemi and about 500 miles down the road from the install the wobble started on my way home from a trip up north. I took it back and they checked it all out (exept the castor) and said it looked fine. The next day the wobble came back on my way home from work. I called the shop and told them. They had it on the rack the next morning. Turnnes out these trucks are very sensitive to castor adjustment (normally not really even checked in many alignment shops due to once set it rarely ever gets out of adjustment). The shop manager had a jeep he lifted several years back and had the same problem with, so he told the guys to check it out. It was like 5-8 degrees out of factory spec (on the neg. side) he called Revtek and asked them for sugestions, and they told him that they have been telling thier customers to put as much positive castor in the the vehicle allowable and still stay in factor spec. He di and I never had a single hint of problem again with the truck (50,000 miles). So I just got my new Megacab had the same shop put it on for me ($250.00 including alignment) and haven't felt a thing other than other Dodge owners wanting to know were I got my lift from. Just think of castor like a shopping cart wheel, you know the cart that has the one wheel that doesn't track rite, and wobbles as you push it? It does that because the axis it not in the right place in relation to the wheel center, so it shakes and wobbles, move that axis more ahead of the wheel hub and the it basically "pulls" the wheel straight and it doesn't wobble as much.
Did mine yesterday as well, if you use jacks make sure to use a floor jack. Bottle jacks are to tall. I undid the the shock, shock towers, sway bar end links, and track bar, Jacked up the entire front end, put jack stands under the frame, put spring compressors on spring, lower front axle, put spacers with the rubber spring holder on, bolted spacer to shock tower, jacked axle back up, put tires on, lowered entire front end, pulled the sway bar down onto the end links, tightened sway bar links, started the truck, turned the tires until the track bar ligned up, and bolted it back up, rechecked all bolts for tightnes, done. A few problems I had were: the driver side shock bushing plate was threaded, so it had to be unscrewed instead of just sliding off (weird), axle did not droop enough without spring compressors(might if you undid the steering linkage. CORROSION(spray everything with some WD-40 or something a day or 2 in advance) Sorry for the long post. But in the end I got rewarded with a nice looking ride on 37"s!!!!!!
Getting ready to put on some 1.5" spacers....when people say to lower the axle one side at a time, does this mean they are using two floor jacks? Sorry for the stupid question but, I wanna make sure I do it right!!
Haven't done it yet, got the goods and plan on it Saturday. From what I can with out a coil compression kit you would jack up the frame rail and place two soild jacks on each main frame beam. Then you can control the front axle with your floor jack.
I just went and bought a coil compression tool at Princess Auto works, was on sale for 10 bucks. My plan is to lift the front axle with the floor jack just before the wheel comes off the ground so I can compress the front coil as much as I can. Then I am going to use the compression tool and suck up a bit more. Once that is good I will lower the truck back down and jack up on the frame letting the front axle drop which should allow me enough room to get the 2 inch block in place.
Yet to carry this out, I'll let you know how I make out this weekend.
cheers
I just went and bought a coil compression tool at Princess Auto works, was on sale for 10 bucks. My plan is to lift the front axle with the floor jack just before the wheel comes off the ground so I can compress the front coil as much as I can. Then I am going to use the compression tool and suck up a bit more. Once that is good I will lower the truck back down and jack up on the frame letting the front axle drop which should allow me enough room to get the 2 inch block in place.
Yet to carry this out, I'll let you know how I make out this weekend.
cheers
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