3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

Installing Phantom II's

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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 08:33 AM
  #1  
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From: Boerne Texas,
Installing Phantom II's

Need some tips for installing boost and pyro, things I should or shouldn't do or things you would have done different. Thanks in advance.
Kyle
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 08:53 AM
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The boost guage is not that hard, I'd take the intake horn off to tap it. Make sure that you cover the intake above the heater element and the I/C tube while you have the intake horn off. I would tap it all the way to one side or the other, you may want to add more stuff on the horn later.

There are a few ways to tap the pyro guage. I have mine tapped pre-turbo, which is where you will see the most accurate numbers. You can do it with out dropping the turbo or removing the manifold, but you have to be careful. Coat your drill bit with grease, and put a magnet right next to where you are drilling to catch the chips not only on the outside, but on the inside too. When you are done with the hole, pull a shop-vac over the hole while pulling the magnet toward the hole. Start the truck, and let it idle for a few. This will blow out any other metal pieces.

There are a few different ways to do this. Some people leave the truck running, and partially block the exhaust, so that the back pressure blows the shavings out.

Others drop the turbo from the mainifold and tape off the exhaust inlet for the turbo.

I would reccomend placing the probe just behind the collector on the manifold, historically, cylinders #5 and 6 are the hottest.

Anything else? That's just the probe stuff, if you need more help, just ask...

I'm sure that others will chime in with their own tips.
HTH...
mad
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 09:00 AM
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Thanks Madhat! I didnk think of the magnet, I will use it and have a buddy running the shop vac while I drill, so you think I can do this w/o taking the Exhaust manifold off? Thanks again
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 09:54 AM
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what size bits and taps should I use? For the boost and pyro.
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 10:23 AM
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For my pyro it was a 1/8"NPT tap, and a "R" bit (0.339"). cant help on the boost,as I used a boost bolt from DieselManor.
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 10:36 AM
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when I installed my pyro I started with the smallest bit I had then went up one size at a time until I had the size I needed for the tap. This keeps the fileings as small as posible, almost like dust. Then used tap with grease on it and about every full turn backed it out and cleaned and regreased it. Then used a magnet like suggested and also used a straightened out coat hanger to reach into hole while the magnet magnitized the hanger. This makes the process longer but it works and no chewed up turbo.
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 10:39 AM
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Thanks, keep info coming, I am on my way to Auto zone for taps.
Thanks again
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 12:52 PM
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Sounds like you did good. Just take your time.

Sorry I did not get to your PM sooner, I was out with the fam...
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 01:06 PM
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From: F-ville NC
Originally Posted by madhat
The boost guage is not that hard, I'd take the intake horn off to tap it. Make sure that you cover the intake above the heater element and the I/C tube while you have the intake horn off. I would tap it all the way to one side or the other, you may want to add more stuff on the horn later.
I would actually just order a boost bolt. It takes about 3 minutes to install...
Originally Posted by madhat
There are a few ways to tap the pyro guage. I have mine tapped pre-turbo, which is where you will see the most accurate numbers. You can do it with out dropping the turbo or removing the manifold, but you have to be careful. Coat your drill bit with grease, and put a magnet right next to where you are drilling to catch the chips not only on the outside, but on the inside too. When you are done with the hole, pull a shop-vac over the hole while pulling the magnet toward the hole. Start the truck, and let it idle for a few. This will blow out any other metal pieces.

There are a few different ways to do this. Some people leave the truck running, and partially block the exhaust, so that the back pressure blows the shavings out.

Others drop the turbo from the mainifold and tape off the exhaust inlet for the turbo.

I would reccomend placing the probe just behind the collector on the manifold, historically, cylinders #5 and 6 are the hottest.

Anything else? That's just the probe stuff, if you need more help, just ask...

I'm sure that others will chime in with their own tips.
HTH...
mad
True ^^^^^
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 01:10 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by ShakinRedCTD
I would actually just order a boost bolt. It takes about 3 minutes to install...

I had mine tapped, then I bought a GDP intake horn, I think, and it was tapped already. It had 4 ports.
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 01:34 PM
  #11  
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From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
Originally Posted by kw5.9
what size bits and taps should I use? For the boost and pyro.
1/8" pipe tap with an 11/32" drill bit.
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 04:24 PM
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From: Boerne Texas,
Got every thing drilled and tapped, but i am about to roll my truck off a cliff trying to find out how to get power to these auto meters, please help!!!
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 05:09 PM
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From: F-ville NC
Pull power from your cigarette lighter. You will have to remove the stereo benzel by grabbing it and pilling it off. For your lights pull the little cover on the dash next to the drivers door. There is room to see the wiring on the light switch. You will need to remover the knee plate ( 2 screws down low then pop iit off) and the gauge cluster benzel (5 screws) to get to the wiring on the switch. One of the black and orange wires provides the 12 v on/off for lighting. USE A test light FOR THIS. tap it. and you are done.
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