Another question, do new turbos need any special break in procedures?

 

I don't see why you couldn't use the stock bolts but, you'd have to use the spacers too. The ATS comes with it's own bolts. You could probably call them for the size or to get some.

on the turbo... make sure you prefill it with some oil, don't run it wide open for 50 miles and you should be find.

 

Studs work great if you can find some. It will make reinstalling the multi-layer manifold gaskets for each cylinder MUCH easier since they can hang on the studs. Nathan showed me that trick.

 

I just took the manifold and turbo off. It took about 1.5 hours to get it all apart including pulling the airbox out, no need to take the fender well out if pulling the manifold out too. It is suprisingly easy so far, going back together will be easy if everything was made to fit correctly, we'll see. I could see this being a two hour job if you'd done it a few times before. Way less of a pain than doing the valvebody.

If you are just taking the turbo off, you better be Hercules to get the turbo to manifold bolts off while in the truck. I am not sure how that is done.

I wish I had some studs but I guess its probably not worth the bother, I couldnt find an ARP kit made for this. We'll see if I change my mind when I figure out if I have leaks or not!

 

I would for sure make sure you have some help and some time. I had help on mine its not ungodly bad. just take your time and if you have any skills you will be fine. im no master mechanic and I done mine. I would for sure take off the manifold and the turbo together and make sure you have new gaskets for your stuff. I got new studs/ gaskets from a cummins place near me.

 

Just be sure there are no women or small children around when you try to get those gaskets back in there!

 

Yeah, I am doing it alone. That is one heavy sucker to get out, but it isnt like pulling a head out by yourself at least, I would probably get stuck doing that alone too.

The studs you got from Cummins, were they all studs or the same bolts and a couple of studs? I might try to find a Cummins place if I can get my hands on some studs. I guess I could always go back and put studs in later.

It sure is great having all this room to work in the engine bay. I cant image doing this on a V8 diesel.

 

they are just threaded on both ends. one threads into the turbo flange and the other slides thru the manifold flange. then you thread the nuts back on there. it would be real pain to do that easy without taking off the manifold in my opinion. I hope this answers your question barry

 

Do you guys think the new manifolds really make a big difference? Are the ports that much bigger? I'm about to do the turbo but debating on the manifold. I don't plan on going higher than about 400 HP and I already have a 4 inch exhaust. Just want some easier breathing and lower EGT.

Thanks,

John

 

Do a search on here and other sites, lots of opinions on it. Most opinions seem to think the manifolds are nice because they are sturdier, but for EGT lowering not worth much.

 

Final tips I learned the hard way for first timers.

1. There are two small pins sticking out of the stock downpipe. My aftermarket turbo didnt have holes for them so I had to grind them off. I noticed this after I put the turbo and manifold in place, had to pull that heavy thing out.

2. Manual wastegate diaphram might hit engine mount, I didnt realize this until I put the turbo and manifold back in place, had to pull it out again and grind on the mount.

3. The downpipe might try to push forward on the assembly making bolting it up hard. Get on the ground and push around on the catalytic to move the downpipe around.

4. On autos, at least on my 2006, the trans dipstick tube sits against the downpipe keeping it from moving. You can loosen it by unbolting the bracket on the trans bellhousing from below, makes it easier to get the vband hooked up to the turbine outlet/downpipe.

 

Mine took 3 days..... do a search and read the trouble I had w/ my silver 62. It took so long cause I cracked the oil drain tube and It took 3 days to get another. That tube is a pain in the rump. it's not flexible as you'd think even with the new one, mine would seat all the way.... but thanks to JB Weld putty, it's sealed up GOOOOOD!

 

Yeah! That oil drain tube is a real son of a gun. I dropped those bolts down in the control arms more than once and had to fish them out. It isnt flexible at all it seems like and it gets all twisted when you put the turbo back on. I finally got it bolted back together and started, glad thats over with!

 

If you spring an oil leak in the near future that's the first place to check. Don't ask me how I know...lol