I don't think there is a reference line coming from the grid heater. I think the way it works is the ECM waits to see a voltage drop in the system. Not sure how you could trick it if that's the case?

 

i have gread heather delete and no codes

 

the ecm sets a code for "ecm did not detect voltage drop from intake air heater".

i tried to fool the ecm by modifying the grid and removing most of the element material which resulted in 95% less restriction......but also resulted in a meltdown as well . im glad i tested it before re-installing it. i guess the amperage was just too much for the greately reduced length of heater element.

those of you who arent getting codes, is it cold enough for your wait to start light to come on? that is when the grid cycles and after a couple starts in that situation it always set a code for me.......but not anymore, now my truck thinks its summer all year long w/ my block heater pluged in

 

please tell me the code number.......


the guys not getting codes are the older trucks with out the CAN diagnostics...from what I notice it is all the new trucks that throw code/s

 

Yep
Mine did even plugged in.
Wait to start light didn't come on, but the first time the heater was supposed to cycle , the CEL came on.
No biggie, It'll go away when it's warmer.

 

whats the P code you got?????

 

i think it is 2906. I got the same code when i installed the bodylift. The gaskets between the grid heater are a metal based and that is how it is grounded. The new gaskets that came with the bodylift were paper based and could not ground. pulled codes and it was a failure of voltage drop or something like that.

 

For all of those that are saying that the loss of boost pressure due to removing the grid heater or changing intake horn is bad, need to think about this. Boost pressure is created by restriction. The more the restriction, the more the pressure for the same amount of volume of air. Your supply volume of air, turbo, has more or less stayed the same, but you have removed restriction, heater grid/stock airhorn, thus the pressure has dropped. The drop in boost signifies a decrease in restiction and an increase in airflow. More air means you can burn more fuel, means more hp. A lot of people are under the misconception that boost is a direct correlation to hp, but if you take a stock turbo and make 50 psi, without it comming apart, and 64/14 @ 40 psi, you will make more power with the bigger turbo, even though it has less boost. It flows more air in and out, thus less restriction/drive pressure, and more power. Just an example.
Bobby

 

i understand that less restriction=less boost, but the restriction was at the stock grid and horn. if i were measuring boost somewhere between the turbo and the grid/horn, then yes removing the grid/horn would show less boost because i got rid of the restriction.......but i am measuring boost at the head, after the restriction (grid/horn) so i dont see why my boost readings would have droped?

 

close..... it was p2609 thanks Chris that was close enough for me to find it

 

i am going to blame that one on the meds and the cold i am fighting. Feel like I got hit by a mack truck. you got r right mark! lol.... SOrry about that.

 

Ghost Ram, I undestand your question, but don't have an answer for it. I read my boost through my air horn and my thought process works accordingly.

 

a relief in restriction before or after your boost readings will still show results. I understand what you are saying though.

 

Am I too conclude that since Bob/Marco haven't responded to this that it is a no go?

 

You would be concluding far too prematurely. Be patient... it will be worth it.