alot of guys want to delete their intake heater grids but dont want to deal w/ the engine code resulting from it (ecm not detecting voltage drop from intake air heater), so is there a way to disable the heater grid cycles in smartys programing?


on a side note: when installing my smarty for the first time it gave me the option on one of the first screens to update ecm or change speed limiter. i updated ecm and added catcher#5 and now when i go back in i nolonger see the option to change the speed limiter. why is this?

 

I think you need to return it to stock, then reprogram it and choose the speed limiter when given the chance.

I too would love to have a version that disabled this grid heater code. I hate driving around with the check engine light lit up.

 

I hope Bob, Marco respond to this. I haven't installed my grid delete yet because I don't want to drive around w/check engine light on.

 

bump......

 

Bump,any one seen bob on here lately?

 

Try PM'ing both Bob and Marco.

MikeyB

 

Geez guys, this thread isn't even 24hrs old yet. Give the men a little time to see it, think about it, and then respond.

 

bump........

 

What's the benefit on disabling the heater grid?

 

To keep from getting codes when the heater is replaced with a "heater grid delete." Some people are getting codes when they remove the heater grid and do a "safety wrap" on the wires.

 

No!! Don't bug Marco!! HE IS VERY BUSY WORKING ON OUR RACE FILE!!!

 

20 Questions? Why grid delete?

 

If you pull off your intake horn and look into the grid heater, you will see a bunch of fins (similar to a radiator) restricting the airflow. To me, it looks like a huge restriction, and since I park my truck in my garage or can plug it in, I decided to replace the grid heater spacer with a grid heater delete spacer. It is essentially the same piece, minus the airflow restricting fins.

If you live in a colder area, where temps get below 30 degrees, it might not be the best option.

Jared

 

Has anyone done any dyno testing with and without or evaluated EGT's during WOT runs? I never thought of the potential restriction?

 

well, i installed my cfm+ tonight and took a look at the grid heater while i was in there and decided to be the guinee pig and try a little diy mod in hopes of solving this problem and still keep the heater.

what i did was pulled all the fins out and stretched them apart to make them straight. then cut all the excess off and just left enough to reach straight across the center and added a bend at the end and drilled a new hole to rebolt the two fins back into place with.

so esentially what i now had was two individual fins, each one going from a power bolt straight across to the ground bolt. i figured this would eliminate 95% of the retriction and still draw voltage so it wouldnt set a code and also even still heat the air to some degree, basically remaining functional.

well the fab work turned out really nice, i even did some gasket matching w/ a dremel. i decided to test it out before installing it and boy was i glad i did because within 3 seconds after hooking power to it the fins turned glowing red, melted and snaped apart. needless to say my project had failed but thats always how i learn things.....first hand.

that was a concern of mine that by removing so much of the fins all the voltage would be applied to a much smaller area and it would get too hot. well my concern was valid and im glad i tested it before re-installing it. so anyway i installed my grid delete instead and plan on getting a block heater cord from the dealer tomorrow, hopefully to cure any rough starts.

btw, i hooked up the heater to the battery while it was still stock and the fins didnt glow at all but they did put off a good bit of heat and would definately burn you.


SO DONT BOTHER TO TRY THIS ONE AT HOME

now if marco could disable the heater cycles in the ecm we would all be good to go.