H2 Wheel Info & Pic Thread.....
I am looking at the H2 wheels, as a cheaper alternative to 'aftermarket' wheels.
--------------------------------- So far, I gathered this info: Hummer H2 Wheels: Size: 17" x 8.5" Bolt Pattern: 8x6.5 Off-set: 18 MM Backspacing: 5.5" Weight Rating: 3,195 lbs per rim Hub Size: ??? Stock Wheels: Bolt Pattern: 8x6.5 Size: 17" x 8" Offset: ?? Backspacing: 6.25" Weight Rating: ??? Hub Size: 4.767" ---------------------------------------- Can anyone "fill-in the blanks" for the stock whee info?....or verify if the above info is correct? What color options are the H2 wheels offered in........looks like shiny chrome and a satin silver. Does it matter what vehicle year the H2 wheels came from? Also, if you would like to share, please post up some pics of your truck with H2 wheels......... |
I know they are available in chrome and satin and you have to have the wheel enlarged to clear the dodge hubs
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Originally Posted by D45
(Post 1957510)
I am looking at the H2 wheels, as a cheaper alternative to 'aftermarket' wheels.
--------------------------------- So far, I gathered this info: Hummer H2 Wheels: Size: 17" x 8.5" Bolt Pattern: 8x6.5 Off-set: 18 MM Backspacing: 5.5" Weight Rating: 3200-3500 lbs per rim Hub Size: ??? Stock Wheels: Bolt Pattern: 8x6.5 Size: 17" x 8" Offset: ?? Backspacing: 6.25" Weight Rating: ??? Hub Size: 4.767" ---------------------------------------- Can anyone "fill-in the blanks" for the stock whee info?....or verify if the above info is correct? What color options are the H2 wheels offered in........looks like shiny chrome and a satin silver. Does it matter what vehicle year the H2 wheels came from? Also, if you would like to share, please post up some pics of your truck with H2 wheels......... |
Here's everything you need to know. I've machined 2 sets for fellow chapter members. Hardest part is cutting the center caps. Dremel works great.
http://towrig.com/hummerh2wheelupgrade.shtml I saw a set in the classifieds dirt cheap. |
I used a router with a 1" flush trim bit.Worked good about 3-4 min. per wheel.
Pics in sig. |
4 Attachment(s)
heres pics of the chrome h2's on my rig...
Attachment 75228 Attachment 75229 Attachment 75230 Attachment 75231 |
Originally Posted by Howling
(Post 1957749)
I used a router with a 1" flush trim bit.Worked good about 3-4 min. per wheel.
Pics in sig. Do you have some sort of home made jig or something? I just can picture how you move the router around the circle and keep the hole even all the way around or not skip out.[duhhh] |
Originally Posted by 06megacabman
(Post 1959349)
How do you maintain the tolerance of the circle as you go around the hole routing out the extra?
Do you have some sort of home made jig or something? I just can picture how you move the router around the circle and keep the hole even all the way around or not skip out.[duhhh] I just worry about balancing and safety issues if the wheels are not machined correctly and accurately. I think I am going to start calling around local machine shops....... |
I think the center of the wheel has a step on it that the ball bearing on the flush trimming bit rides on, thus trimming off the lip. Just a guess judging from the pictures I've seen. The wheels are lugcentric, meaning it's the lugs that center it on the hub not the center bore.
I think I'm going to pick up a set of chrome ones if the price is right, found some for sale localy and going to call tomorrow. Thinking about machining the center bore a bit larger and routing a chamfer on the back to accept a push through style center cap (I have a brand new set of chrome ones never used) and getting some Mcgard lug nuts too, anyone ever tried this before? |
Originally Posted by jamesbfishin
(Post 1959396)
I think the center of the wheel has a step on it that the ball bearing on the flush trimming bit rides on, thus trimming off the lip. Just a guess judging from the pictures I've seen. The wheels are lugcentric, meaning it's the lugs that center it on the hub not the center bore.
That is correct |
Does anyone have up-close hub pics of their hand trimmed (aka router method) H2 wheels.........
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will this only work on the 3rd gen dodges???
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This subject comes up over and over again, here's something I posted back in Dec 06:
"I don't have pictures handy, drawing attached. The H2s have a lip that is trimmed off similar to trimming off excess formica from a countertop. The wheel lip is much thicker, however. The router with a $14 trim bit is not going to give you as smooth a finish as a machined wheel, but certainly does not look like a hack job. The original front edge is retained as well as 1/8 inch or so of the hole, so when the wheel is mounted on the truck you wouldn't notice the hole expansion, you just see the factory smooth finish." If you understand how you trim the formica countertop edge with a router without gouging the countertop, you understand how this method gives you a perfect circle, although not mirror finish. I should note that the center done this way still retains some of the cone for those worrying about center wheel balance machines, and they are actually a slightly smaller hole than stock wheels, so whether dodge is lug or hub centric is irrelevant to the discussion..... the only problem with the otherwise decent article that gets reference everywhere is that it fails to mention the safest and best way to open up the center hole. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3&d=1174044383 "I bought a 1/2 in frued carbide bearing flush trim bit for $14, set up the router such that the bearing was catching a bit of the wheel, flipped the wheel/tire over, good side down, and slowly trimmed around the hole clockwise. Five minutes later all four wheels were done. This is no sweat for anyone that's used a router, and I now have a nice stack of aluminum tinsel for holiday decorating. The router bit showed no sign of wear. The hole is just a knat's eyelash smaller than the OEM wheels and has a smooth enough finish. " |
Does anyone know the weight rating on the stock wheels?
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pics
can,t get the d*#m thing to work
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I did my first set of H2s with a 4 3/4" inch hole saw and that worked well. I posted that info back in '04 and it has worked for many of us.
I did my '08 H2s with the flush cut router bit method that someone else discovered and I like that better. It's really quick and easy. The finish size of the hole is just barely big enough and you must cut out all you can by making several passes around the hole and making sure the depth is set right. One of mine fit a little too tight and I had to go back and sand the inner surface of the hole a bit with a drum sander. Maybe the bearing was a couple thousanths under the size of the cutter. Anyway, I recommend the router method as safe, quick and easy. As far as the weight rating is concerned, I have not found the weight rating of the H2s or the Dodge aluminum wheels. But they both have a DOT T cast into them, if that matters. I would also be careful about baking them to remove the old coating or to cure the powder coat as a temp of 550 Degrees is one of the heat treat temps for aluminum. John |
Does anyone know if the 08 H2's have the same dimensions (backspacing and offset) as the older models? They did a redesign on them and was just wondering if it's only cosmetic.
I found a set of chrome 08 H2's with no tires for under $400, is that a good price? |
Originally Posted by jamesbfishin
(Post 1962656)
Does anyone know if the 08 H2's have the same dimensions (backspacing and offset) as the older models? They did a redesign on them and was just wondering if it's only cosmetic.
I found a set of chrome 08 H2's with no tires for under $400, is that a good price? I believe they are just re-designed, and the specs should be the same. |
The '08 wheels look different but the backspacing, width and center hole ID are the same as the earlier specs. They look different and the Dodge caps must be cut a little more to fit.
They are really nice wheels. John |
Here's some pictures of the silver ones.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...z/DSC02799.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...z/DSC02802.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...z/DSC02798.jpg |
I don't know where you guys are getting the weight rating info but just a word of caution... Alcoa makes the H2 OEM wheels and they are selling them in the aftermarket. Only problem is they list the weight rating at 2750 lbs... a far cry from the alcoa 8 classic with 3750 lb weight rating in a 16" wheel that came stock on Ford Trucks/vans in the 90's
http://www.alcoa.com/global/en/produ...p?prod_id=1201 |
Originally Posted by jamesbfishin
(Post 1962656)
Does anyone know if the 08 H2's have the same dimensions (backspacing and offset) as the older models? They did a redesign on them and was just wondering if it's only cosmetic.
I found a set of chrome 08 H2's with no tires for under $400, is that a good price? BTW pics in My Garage for anyone who wants a better look. Wood |
Your "garage"?
Where's your garage? You got no pics in your gallery? PapeCAT, are you saying the specs you posted are for ALL H2 wheels? Or are the Alcoa ones copies of the H2's or? My front axle is 4500 pounds on a scale, wheels only rated for 2700 each would concern me... |
H2 Wheels
Whats the tire size on the H2 in that Pic ? Are you running a 2" leveling Kit ?
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(check his signature)
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Sorry, wrong forum. On Cumminsforum.com there is a "Mygarage" for pictures. I don't know how to upload pics here.
Wood |
Originally Posted by acman
(Post 2010556)
Whats the tire size on the H2 in that Pic ? Are you running a 2" leveling Kit ?
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Originally Posted by PapeCAT
(Post 2009806)
I don't know where you guys are getting the weight rating info but just a word of caution... Alcoa makes the H2 OEM wheels and they are selling them in the aftermarket. Only problem is they list the weight rating at 2750 lbs... a far cry from the alcoa 8 classic with 3750 lb weight rating in a 16" wheel that came stock on Ford Trucks/vans in the 90's
http://www.alcoa.com/global/en/produ...p?prod_id=1201 That is an aftermarket wheel. A completely different wheel. Not the stock Hummer wheel. I'm still searching for the rating on the actual H2 wheels. Haven't seen it. John |
Call the local Hummer dealership.
Most wheels are stamped on the backside, stating the size and weight rating. I just checked mine and they are not marked. I believe the number I posted is the correct figure.... |
Originally Posted by D45
(Post 2011636)
Call the local Hummer dealership.
Most wheels are stamped on the backside, stating the size and weight rating. I just checked mine and they are not marked. I believe the number I posted is the correct figure.... Also, if you do a search you'll see how to use the router and why it will not affect balancing. But machining them is a good method too if you are concerned or not familiar with a router. Thanks, John |
I bought a carbide flush trim bit today at Sears for under $15
However, at the last minute, I found a machine shop to do it for DIRT CHEAP!!!!! Dropping them off tomorrow....... |
Also, for the weight rating: A Hummer dealership was selling a set of wheels on Ebay. I contacted them, stating I was interested in the wheels, but needed to know the weight rating first.
They responded with the number on the first post, on the first page. |
Originally Posted by Raspy
(Post 1961580)
I did my first set of H2s with a 4 3/4" inch hole saw and that worked well. I posted that info back in '04 and it has worked for many of us.
I did my '08 H2s with the flush cut router bit method that someone else discovered and I like that better. It's really quick and easy. The finish size of the hole is just barely big enough and you must cut out all you can by making several passes around the hole and making sure the depth is set right. One of mine fit a little too tight and I had to go back and sand the inner surface of the hole a bit with a drum sander. Maybe the bearing was a couple thousanths under the size of the cutter. Anyway, I recommend the router method as safe, quick and easy. John Is this the bit? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...me=Router+Bits |
Shane,
That's it. The perfect bit for the job. You may find the centers just a bit tight after routing. Make a bunch of passes to get all the metal you can. If they are tight don't force the wheels on but sand the holes a bit and on they go. I think sometimes the bearing is a couple thousandths bigger than the cutter. John |
5 Attachment(s)
The machine shop did a great job, very smooth and professional.
They are mounted and I really like them, perfect amount of backspacing. Attachment 75232 Attachment 75233 Attachment 75234 Attachment 75235 Attachment 75236 |
Where's your flares?
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Originally Posted by Fisherguy
(Post 2037642)
Where's your flares?
Plus, it needs to be dry for 3-4 days after installation and it has been 35-40 degrees and raining here............hopefully SOON!!!! |
Did the router method from above and it took me 10 minutes this weekend. Took longer to get the old wheels off.
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sorry for the hijack but will 2006 SILVERADO 3/4 TON 8 LUG wheels fit my 04.5?
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