H2 Wheel Info & Pic Thread.....
I am looking at the H2 wheels, as a cheaper alternative to 'aftermarket' wheels.
--------------------------------- So far, I gathered this info: Hummer H2 Wheels: Size: 17" x 8.5" Bolt Pattern: 8x6.5 Off-set: 18 MM Backspacing: 5.5" Weight Rating: 3,195 lbs per rim Hub Size: ??? Stock Wheels: Bolt Pattern: 8x6.5 Size: 17" x 8" Offset: ?? Backspacing: 6.25" Weight Rating: ??? Hub Size: 4.767" ---------------------------------------- Can anyone "fill-in the blanks" for the stock whee info?....or verify if the above info is correct? What color options are the H2 wheels offered in........looks like shiny chrome and a satin silver. Does it matter what vehicle year the H2 wheels came from? Also, if you would like to share, please post up some pics of your truck with H2 wheels......... |
I know they are available in chrome and satin and you have to have the wheel enlarged to clear the dodge hubs
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Originally Posted by D45
(Post 1957510)
I am looking at the H2 wheels, as a cheaper alternative to 'aftermarket' wheels.
--------------------------------- So far, I gathered this info: Hummer H2 Wheels: Size: 17" x 8.5" Bolt Pattern: 8x6.5 Off-set: 18 MM Backspacing: 5.5" Weight Rating: 3200-3500 lbs per rim Hub Size: ??? Stock Wheels: Bolt Pattern: 8x6.5 Size: 17" x 8" Offset: ?? Backspacing: 6.25" Weight Rating: ??? Hub Size: 4.767" ---------------------------------------- Can anyone "fill-in the blanks" for the stock whee info?....or verify if the above info is correct? What color options are the H2 wheels offered in........looks like shiny chrome and a satin silver. Does it matter what vehicle year the H2 wheels came from? Also, if you would like to share, please post up some pics of your truck with H2 wheels......... |
Here's everything you need to know. I've machined 2 sets for fellow chapter members. Hardest part is cutting the center caps. Dremel works great.
http://towrig.com/hummerh2wheelupgrade.shtml I saw a set in the classifieds dirt cheap. |
I used a router with a 1" flush trim bit.Worked good about 3-4 min. per wheel.
Pics in sig. |
4 Attachment(s)
heres pics of the chrome h2's on my rig...
Attachment 75228 Attachment 75229 Attachment 75230 Attachment 75231 |
Originally Posted by Howling
(Post 1957749)
I used a router with a 1" flush trim bit.Worked good about 3-4 min. per wheel.
Pics in sig. Do you have some sort of home made jig or something? I just can picture how you move the router around the circle and keep the hole even all the way around or not skip out.[duhhh] |
Originally Posted by 06megacabman
(Post 1959349)
How do you maintain the tolerance of the circle as you go around the hole routing out the extra?
Do you have some sort of home made jig or something? I just can picture how you move the router around the circle and keep the hole even all the way around or not skip out.[duhhh] I just worry about balancing and safety issues if the wheels are not machined correctly and accurately. I think I am going to start calling around local machine shops....... |
I think the center of the wheel has a step on it that the ball bearing on the flush trimming bit rides on, thus trimming off the lip. Just a guess judging from the pictures I've seen. The wheels are lugcentric, meaning it's the lugs that center it on the hub not the center bore.
I think I'm going to pick up a set of chrome ones if the price is right, found some for sale localy and going to call tomorrow. Thinking about machining the center bore a bit larger and routing a chamfer on the back to accept a push through style center cap (I have a brand new set of chrome ones never used) and getting some Mcgard lug nuts too, anyone ever tried this before? |
Originally Posted by jamesbfishin
(Post 1959396)
I think the center of the wheel has a step on it that the ball bearing on the flush trimming bit rides on, thus trimming off the lip. Just a guess judging from the pictures I've seen. The wheels are lugcentric, meaning it's the lugs that center it on the hub not the center bore.
That is correct |
Does anyone have up-close hub pics of their hand trimmed (aka router method) H2 wheels.........
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will this only work on the 3rd gen dodges???
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This subject comes up over and over again, here's something I posted back in Dec 06:
"I don't have pictures handy, drawing attached. The H2s have a lip that is trimmed off similar to trimming off excess formica from a countertop. The wheel lip is much thicker, however. The router with a $14 trim bit is not going to give you as smooth a finish as a machined wheel, but certainly does not look like a hack job. The original front edge is retained as well as 1/8 inch or so of the hole, so when the wheel is mounted on the truck you wouldn't notice the hole expansion, you just see the factory smooth finish." If you understand how you trim the formica countertop edge with a router without gouging the countertop, you understand how this method gives you a perfect circle, although not mirror finish. I should note that the center done this way still retains some of the cone for those worrying about center wheel balance machines, and they are actually a slightly smaller hole than stock wheels, so whether dodge is lug or hub centric is irrelevant to the discussion..... the only problem with the otherwise decent article that gets reference everywhere is that it fails to mention the safest and best way to open up the center hole. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3&d=1174044383 "I bought a 1/2 in frued carbide bearing flush trim bit for $14, set up the router such that the bearing was catching a bit of the wheel, flipped the wheel/tire over, good side down, and slowly trimmed around the hole clockwise. Five minutes later all four wheels were done. This is no sweat for anyone that's used a router, and I now have a nice stack of aluminum tinsel for holiday decorating. The router bit showed no sign of wear. The hole is just a knat's eyelash smaller than the OEM wheels and has a smooth enough finish. " |
Does anyone know the weight rating on the stock wheels?
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pics
can,t get the d*#m thing to work
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