tritont

Gotsmoke.... a couple questions.

What kind of fuel pressure are you running to the duals ?

Besides the smarty... are you using anything else ?

are you only able to stay cool because of the twins & water or do the twins do pretty well on their own ?

PourinDiesel

I say go with the FASS with filters setup either 150gph or 200gph setup. Either will work just fine.
PPE dual cp3's. DDP90's will work but you will be relying more on the TST so i would advise getting some Flux's from Don M/Formula 1.

If you want big power with one turbo go with the Aurora 5000 from ATS. Banks intercooler setup works well for us out here in Indiana and for the money its a probably the best value.
Many doubted the banks setup but its stood up to 2 years of sledpulling for me at who knows how much boost with the Aurora 5000 turbo.
Dont make any mistakes of messing with O rings or Firerings. Just bottom tap the block when you install the ARP studs and be done with it. Just retorque several times.
I run an AFE stage 2 cone filter.....It gets the job done anything smaller wont do it (ok maybe an old 94-02 stage one filter will).

I dont run any water and my truck has seen 44 hooks to the sled in 4 seasons of SLEDPULLING.
Thats 20-25 seconds at a time of WOT full power.

Last year the truck was right at 600rwhp this year its 675rwhp (dyno proven).

Repeat after me CAM CAM CAM.....SPRINGS SPRINGS SPRINGS!!!

No secrets with my truck either. I use as stock smarty program and an old tst box (3.5 years old) with a twins program.

PourinDiesel

What mods only got you 591hp?

PourinDiesel

You are probably a hair over 600 in my humble opinion. You need to think beyond 66mm turbo as far as single turbo's go. With water maybe 650.
An SPS66 which is about the same thing you have wouldnt even cool 525hp the right way sledpulling 3 seasons ago for me.
Your really limiting yourself with a 66mm turbo and can cause potential failure of your motor with that small of a charger.
They will work but they will also take their toll on the motor.

tritont

What you see in my sig.... completely untuned. The dyno was done about 12 hours after the engine had been started for the first time after it's build. The speed limiter stopped it from pulling in better numbers. I'm sure I should be close to 700hp.

PourinDiesel

My stock speed limiter if there is one is in place on my engine. Why did it hit 675hp? Does that mean mine would be 800hp?

Post a picture of your dyno sheet.

Right off the bat that 64mm is way too small for 700hp. Even if you did manage someday to click 7 on a dyno with a 64 your going to be cooking the engine in short order.

591 is really good for a 64, in fact I would be more than happy with a realistic number like 591 form a 64mm turbo.

Who's the maker on your "HD" rods? I know of mod trucks that run stock rods and they are over 1400hp.

tritont

Maybe the limiters on the newer trucks are different. Dave is the one who told me while on the dyno if it wasn't there the truck could have been well over 600hp. I'll have to go scan the dyno sheet but, here's the link the the results.... I'm third from the top..... Dyno results

tritont

they're Cummins shot peen rods. I put them in because I was shown a few sets of stock rods that had way less than 1200hp that were split. I didn't want to be in the bottom end again anytime soon. I built the truck to be as stout as I could afford.

blownsmoke2

Well I'll be willing to bet my old motor was 600hp on a dyno jet when it had come apart being I picked up 55hp on a mustang thru tuning and was at 547 last year on Daves dyno. Last year my dyno numbers were 466.5 on Schieds mustang which was considerably lower than Daves and went up to 511 on tst's with some tuning and stock cp3 and 80 hp inj. Now with the dual cps and flux 3.5's I would say your probably pretty close at the 650 mark and yes thats with alot of water. Talked to ats about A5k it flows 300cfm more air on charger than my htt so should make more hp yes but I talked to a couple of people who sells bolth and says the 66/71/16 stainless is a better charger for drivability and will cool as much. ATS also says I will still need a butt load of water to cool that much fuel. Don't think I'm not considering going to a A5K but I know you can only make as much hp as you have air to burn the fuel. After that you are just over fueling. (like I am now) As I said in my post if I had enough air. So unless your out of air with yours I should be at 700hp with the fuel I have but don't have the air being I have kinda same setup as you only different cam and bigger injectors also I was running smarty beta 4.2 with tst on 2/0 with 6 degrees adv timing. A talked to a individual that put down 811hp with a lot of water and a big set of twins with similiar set up. The only reason I'm considering the A5K over twins is I don't know if it would effect me on sled pulling around here but if I need water it would throw me in super street class or 3.0 charger limit on twins whats the differince.

Anyway nice numbers and I do respect them but I'm just not sold on a A5K being all that yet but its probably about the biggest streetable single you can buy and yes my charger is tooooo small for all the fuel I'm pushing.

blownsmoke2

Tritont don't mean to answer for gotsmoke6 but we don't have motor in his truck yet still sitting in my shop maybe Tuesday since he's camping. Twins should be here then also. He has a tst that doesn't work for crap on his truck probable alot of reason for first motor melt down. His FASS is only a 8# spring as thats what PPE recommended. Also as for your hd rods if you got them thru Schied there shot pinged correct. I can't remember what they told me $1200 or $1400 either way we had a good machine shop balance our bottom ends and ping rods for about half that. I just think the whole Schied thing was a rip the way I found out things after they did my first motor.

tritont

Don't doubt about it... Scheid isn't cheap and I think they really don't care. Obviously going to a smaller shop on a personable level will cost less. Some places get too big for their britches. I'm hearing more now than I knew before going to them but I did know somewhat how they were. I asked Garmon but, he was in the middle of his move. I ask Keating who was too busy and probably always is and I would have asked Olee but, he doesn't return calls so, I was left with Scheid. I'm sure there were others I could have found but.....

I will say Scheid can and does do good work. I met with both the guys that did my build and did appreciate the care they put into getting it right. There's just a lot to be said for the before, during and after service you get.

Scheid wanted to build my engine they way they build them, with their stuff. I wanted something different which kinda rubbed them the wrong way but, it's my money. You wouldn't see half of what's in my sig if it was up to them. Hopefully, because of going outside their box... my engine will hold up a little better.

Thanks for telling me about gotsmokes truck. I'm on an intense search for the correct electronics. The TST is out of the question but, I sure hope they get it worked out !

gotsmoke6

Yeah my 62/14 was a little small before and it would get warm quick i had to eagle eye the pyro!!!!!!

Ill get some pics up when i get the motor back in.

gotsmoke6

Yes it is a 8# spring in my fass i think u are alowed up to 15 psi.

When she went splat i had a sp pressure box on it also.

Now when i go back together im only gona run the smarty. After $12000 by the time it is done it will just be what it is. I really dont want to build anouther one in a couple of months!!!!!!!!!!!!! With the twins, sticks and smarty it should hopefully be around 650+ so that is my $.02

wreedCTD

what was changed? i dont understand. i would like 07s would have more capability than any previous trucks.

'strokeThis_'07

Its not a lack of electrical capability, its just in how the injectors are fired...