Frustrated AirLift Air Lift customer
Frustrated AirLift Air Lift customer
Installed my on board compressor and can't seem to get it to hold air pressure at gauge. Air it up to 75psi at night and came out next morning and it was down to 25psi. I know I have a leak and tried to fix it numerous times but the brass tee seems to leak slowly. Is there a better way to fix it? Maybe silicone on the tee then put hose on? Maybe use the push in type tee? I have made sure to cut ends square and I have pushed on all the way but to no avail. I have tried heating up the hose. I don't want my compressor to kick in constantly while I'm gone for a period of time. Any suggestion would help. Anyone else have an issue?
Hello Ex-wrestler,
I use all types of fittings (compression, push-lok, etc.) in my job as a Maintenance Technician and may be able to help with a little more information.
You said the brass tee seems to leak slowly, is it a push-lok or a compression fitting or other type. You will need to determine the exact area where your leak is happening.This can be done with a spray bottle filled with water and about 3-4 drops of dish detergent soap, then re-attach the trigger sprayer and shake up the bottle to mix the soap and water. Then pressurize your system to normal operating pressure, once the compressor shuts off then spray your all of your hose fittings, hose, & connections. If there is a leak coming from any of the sprayed connections & fittings you will see bubbles coming from the leak. During compressed air leak checking, I keep a paint marker or sharpie handy so that I can mark all leaks found & then identify them later when I make the repair. Hope this helps, good luck.
I use all types of fittings (compression, push-lok, etc.) in my job as a Maintenance Technician and may be able to help with a little more information.
You said the brass tee seems to leak slowly, is it a push-lok or a compression fitting or other type. You will need to determine the exact area where your leak is happening.This can be done with a spray bottle filled with water and about 3-4 drops of dish detergent soap, then re-attach the trigger sprayer and shake up the bottle to mix the soap and water. Then pressurize your system to normal operating pressure, once the compressor shuts off then spray your all of your hose fittings, hose, & connections. If there is a leak coming from any of the sprayed connections & fittings you will see bubbles coming from the leak. During compressed air leak checking, I keep a paint marker or sharpie handy so that I can mark all leaks found & then identify them later when I make the repair. Hope this helps, good luck.
It's actually a tee fitting hose barb style. Problem is it's a pita to get the hose to go all the way on. The soap idea is what I used to know it is leaking. I'm wondering if a push lock tee would be better. Or if something else would be better n
I use both compression and push lock fittings on my air ride system. I have found that compression fittings hold more pressure consistently than push lock. I believe using tie wrap fasteners to stop hose from flexing at fitting + leave some slack in the hose to take pressure off the connection. Keep hoses away from any heat sources. Plastic lines expand and contract a lot with temperature change. Don't bend lines at sharp angles, this puts pressure on the fittings. My system shuts the compressor off at 125 psi and on at 100 psi. If I do not use my truck for 3-4 days it will take a couple of minutes to bring pressure up to normal. I believe this is because of temperature change and number of fittings and valves involved. Automatic level control takes the hassle out of what I believe is an inherent condition of both air ride and air brake systems.
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4th Gen High Performance and Accessories 2010 and Up
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