F2s too much for OEM turbo & J/A?
F2s too much for OEM turbo & J/A?
(Previous post) Just had my fuel system (ALL of it!) replaced two weeks ago due to a long battle with contamination. The truck runs great when warm, idles a hair rough, but not bad - worse in gear than in Park or Neutral. Problem is, when I start it cold, I get about 20 seconds of white smoke and a bad miss, like a dropped cylinder. Very little injector noise or any type of clatter, no codes thrown. No fuel in oil that I can tell. Fuel pressure to the CP3 sits good at 20 psi. While it has dropped into the 20's for a couple nights here, daytime temps have run in the high 60s - still "dropped a cylinder" when I started her after sitting at work all day.
Any ideas? Valve(s) out of adjustment, cold idle circuit (do CTDs have those?) or ECM/sensor screwed up......???
This just doesn't make sense to me - with all new parts from the tank to injectors and all in between (thank heaven for State Farm insurance!), and less than 1K miles, running no pressure mods, and getting my fuel from the same Flying J pump as a buddy who's had no problems - I'm lost. Anybody know a diesel wizard near SC?
Thanks for any help!
Update - I have checked all fuel system connections, released and retorqued all injectors, connector tubes, and supply lines. Installed a deadhead replacement (FloorIt Diesel fitting) for the rail pressure relief valve, no joy. Also tried leaving the truck plugged in last night, no positive effect on the miss. But she does run out very smoothly, and no bad smoke or hesitation off idle after warmup (about 10-15 minutes) - still no codes, so that steers me away from the MAP or pressure sensor.
The injector tips did look loaded up a bit, in my opinion too much for 500 miles and my driving conditions. With the J/A on setting 3, I will peg boost under hard throttle in a hurry (alarm set at 39 PSI) - on setting 4, it gets ridiculous. Is it possible that the F2s and the box combined require a larger turbo? I know that this would drop EGTs somewhat, but I'm wondering if the sticks are flowing too much fuel for the HY35 to accommodate, and that may be contributing to the loading/carbon issue. Or maybe downgrade (dirty word) to F1s? Thoughts?
As always, TIA!
Any ideas? Valve(s) out of adjustment, cold idle circuit (do CTDs have those?) or ECM/sensor screwed up......???
This just doesn't make sense to me - with all new parts from the tank to injectors and all in between (thank heaven for State Farm insurance!), and less than 1K miles, running no pressure mods, and getting my fuel from the same Flying J pump as a buddy who's had no problems - I'm lost. Anybody know a diesel wizard near SC?
Thanks for any help!
Update - I have checked all fuel system connections, released and retorqued all injectors, connector tubes, and supply lines. Installed a deadhead replacement (FloorIt Diesel fitting) for the rail pressure relief valve, no joy. Also tried leaving the truck plugged in last night, no positive effect on the miss. But she does run out very smoothly, and no bad smoke or hesitation off idle after warmup (about 10-15 minutes) - still no codes, so that steers me away from the MAP or pressure sensor.
The injector tips did look loaded up a bit, in my opinion too much for 500 miles and my driving conditions. With the J/A on setting 3, I will peg boost under hard throttle in a hurry (alarm set at 39 PSI) - on setting 4, it gets ridiculous. Is it possible that the F2s and the box combined require a larger turbo? I know that this would drop EGTs somewhat, but I'm wondering if the sticks are flowing too much fuel for the HY35 to accommodate, and that may be contributing to the loading/carbon issue. Or maybe downgrade (dirty word) to F1s? Thoughts?
As always, TIA!
that is a weird one,,, but it very well might be too much injector,, but I wouldnt want to say that for sure,, you dont just happen to know anyone with a good set of stock injectors to try for a little bit,, see if it goes away
kevin
kevin
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Jim,
Do you have anything that advances the timing on the truck?
When cold, the 04.5 and up engines inject the first shot pretty early. In cool weather the cylinder temps can be a tad low for the early event. Anything that advances the timing can make it worse on start up and add to the rattle and rough running
Do you have anything that advances the timing on the truck?
When cold, the 04.5 and up engines inject the first shot pretty early. In cool weather the cylinder temps can be a tad low for the early event. Anything that advances the timing can make it worse on start up and add to the rattle and rough running
Don -
The Edge J/A is a timing and duration only box - but the miss on cold start occurs even with the box turned off. You made me a good deal on the F2s (through TiminVA), but with my other mods, I'm wondering if I need to step down, or if a larger turbo would help?
Scott Embry
The Edge J/A is a timing and duration only box - but the miss on cold start occurs even with the box turned off. You made me a good deal on the F2s (through TiminVA), but with my other mods, I'm wondering if I need to step down, or if a larger turbo would help?
Scott Embry
Some guys have those timing advance crank sensor mods and they can make the cold start smoke and rattle and bit worse.
The 2's should be fine with the stock turbo. It has a HX40 size compressor wheel in it.
The problem now is a cold start noise and smoke or are there other problems?
The 2's should be fine with the stock turbo. It has a HX40 size compressor wheel in it.
The problem now is a cold start noise and smoke or are there other problems?
Don -
The entire fuel system was replaced (tank to head) due to fuel contamination - you cleaned gunk out of them once for me. All 6 injectors were included in this repair, and the truck ran fine with and without the Juice. (Mechanic removed the F2 tips from the old injectors, cleaned them up with a solvent soak and soft brush, and installed the tips on the new bodies) After about 500 miles, it started dropping a cylinder on cold start, some white smoke (about 20 seconds or so), and will smooth out after fully warm - about 15 minutes of highway-speed driving - but the miss is still there, felt only on idle, worse when in Drive or Reverse. Once I get the truck up to speed, she runs quiet and smooth - there is some clatter at low speed, up to around 45 mph.
I have double checked (actually removed and re-installed) the hard supply lines, connector tubes, and injectors, so I know the torque on all components is in spec. When I did this, there seemed to be significant carbon on the tips, especially for only 500 miles - my mechanic here thinks the injectors are oversized for the turbo and other mods, but I'll bow to your expertise on that issue.
The entire fuel system was replaced (tank to head) due to fuel contamination - you cleaned gunk out of them once for me. All 6 injectors were included in this repair, and the truck ran fine with and without the Juice. (Mechanic removed the F2 tips from the old injectors, cleaned them up with a solvent soak and soft brush, and installed the tips on the new bodies) After about 500 miles, it started dropping a cylinder on cold start, some white smoke (about 20 seconds or so), and will smooth out after fully warm - about 15 minutes of highway-speed driving - but the miss is still there, felt only on idle, worse when in Drive or Reverse. Once I get the truck up to speed, she runs quiet and smooth - there is some clatter at low speed, up to around 45 mph.
I have double checked (actually removed and re-installed) the hard supply lines, connector tubes, and injectors, so I know the torque on all components is in spec. When I did this, there seemed to be significant carbon on the tips, especially for only 500 miles - my mechanic here thinks the injectors are oversized for the turbo and other mods, but I'll bow to your expertise on that issue.
Last edited by JIMCTD; Jan 4, 2007 at 01:03 AM. Reason: Add info
Scott,
Can you send them back to me? I wonder if something yukky is in the injectors? I assemble them in a negative vacuum, extra large gloovebox type area to be certain there is no contaminates.
Can you send them back to me? I wonder if something yukky is in the injectors? I assemble them in a negative vacuum, extra large gloovebox type area to be certain there is no contaminates.



I have a good set of stock injectors let me know what uwat to do
