You won't find a better clutch than a SB - but I'd wait until your stocker slips!

Your hard parts in the driveline, ETs and SOTP meter will love a set of LazarSmith traction bars.

 

Well I got a 3600 DD that should be fine for what I need on the clutch department.
But...

 

wap...back to the modded pump with OEM injects...

You will make more HP with OEM stick and a Stage 2 Pump...thanm with an OEM pump and modded sticks. You can't have the sticks you will eventually want...unless you have the pump to supply them...

Pump before sticks...or you will have to do the sticks twice.

 

I am about 95% sure that I am just gonna go ahead and do studs now and I know it is a bandaid but I think I am gonna get a smarty too. No it is not ideal but it will be something to occupy me until I can do the pump, injectors and springs. So the next step will DEFINATELY be pump, sticks, and spring. The truck will be down for the pump and injectors so I want to do them both at the same time. And I am gonna just leave the head on now and wait to pull it when I do my injectors and springs, or I suppose I could pull it now and not later. Right now I have my turbo set at 47-48lbs of boost and I can hit 50 with heavy fueling so I dont think the HG is really an issue right now, but I still want the studs for cheap insureance.

About the pump and injectors, I dont know if I said this or not, but I am gonna get at least flux 3s maybe even the 3.3s, but most likely just a 3. So I know that there is no way a stock pump would work, and there is no way I am doin injectors twice. Its just the whole $3k that is stoppin me from the spings, injectors and pump.

Thanks for all the advice, and by all means, if there is any thing else I should know please tell me, and I am still open to any and all opinions.

 

Nah...that is a good plan.

Don't pull the head or bottom tap this time...next time pull the head for the injectors, springs, new headgasket, and bottom tapping. Buy the Flux 3's or 3.3's and a Floor It Stage 2 then.

The Smarty is going to be fun...I am not sure you will peak higher on the dyno...but it is going to be a lot broader...

Try settings like SW5, TST 3-1 Twins 03 program, 6 degrees Auto Timing, and 50% on the MP-8 and tell me what you think!

I think I know the answer allready...lol.

 

Thanks bud, I am glad you understand, as I know you have put some thought into your answers and if I had the cash I would fallow your advise but you know how that goes.

I was plannin on bottom tapping this go round with the head on and a long tap/weld a top to an extention. Bad idea?

Another thing about pullin the head for the sticks is it should make swappin the spings much easier too, or at least not as nerve racking cause I wont have to worry about droppin anything in my oil galley.

About the smarty, you hit the nail on the head, I am not lookin for more peak power so much (though if that happened thats great) just a broader curve.

 

It is too hard...bottom tap later with the head off. It is hard getting the chips/cutting out with the head off.

Just wait...you will most likely still have to grind ever so lighter on the rocker box over the rear most drivers side stud anyways. I did.

Just consider this your practice round at doing studs...then redo them with the bottom tap and a new gasket later with the head off.

Remember to drain enough coolant out of the system so the the level is below your top of block when you do the studs...it will save one white smokey start up!

 

Just to make sure, there will be no problem REusing the studs right? For the second time around and bottom tapping.

 

Nope...they should be even better. One more torque down sequence!

 

Awsome, thanks

Now, I just need to decide whether or not to get a fluidamper or traction bars.

I would like to get a maniflold but I will get a new one anyways when I get twins, so no point in spendin money twice.