I am going to nstall my gauges this weekend (hopefully) and just want to make sure I bring home everything I need from work so I don't have to try and get someone to drive me back after I have already started the job at home.

My main question right now is in regards to dropping the turbo when I drill the exhaust manifold...ya I know some people don't drop it and do the tape on the tail pipe trick but I am **** and don't want to chance anything. I want to know from anyone who has done it this way (dropping turbo), did you just unbolt the four nuts securing the turbo to the manifold and drop it slightly to tape it or is there oil return and feed lines to remove as well? Also does the elbow that connects to the rest of the exhaust system need to be removed to lower it enough?

Also does any one remember off hand what size the nuts on the turbo are...just want to make sure I bring home the right socket.

Any suggestions are welcomed, thanks in advance,

 

Don't take this the wrong way......
But are you freaking crazy to drop the turbo just for a few shavings. They aren't made of glass.

Dip the drill bit in thick axle grease and clean and re-dip several times during the drilling.
So far I done 4 EGT probes and have had zero to just a few flakes in the manifold. If you are parinoid, use a extension magnet and reach down to get any flakes.

You will probably do more damage by removing the turbo.

 

The problem I am having is two-fold....first is the obvious issue of scoring impeller fins (I know, minor point that likely won't happen) but the other issue is if any shaving do work into and past the turbo, where do they go from there? They go right into the catalytic convertor....from there they will just melt and start doing damage to the internals of the cat. For now I don't want to have to remove or replace the cat otherwise I wouldn't care as much....

As far as doing more damage to the turbo...sorry I'm not following you? I fix cars for a living so it doesn't bother me to do a little extra work for some piece of mind. Just trying to get some advanced info before tearing into it and finding out I left the one tool I need at work and now need to find a ride to get to the shop.

Again thanks for any suggestions and advice....

 

This is my take and someone correct me if I'm wrong.

First, most of the shavings blow through. And remember we are just talking about a couple of flakes, max.
Second, the shaving will not melt. We are talking about iron shavings from the exaust manifold. The gases are quite a bit cooler in the exaust, after it passes the turbo, than the engine.
Third, there have been people that have broken exaust bolts on removel. They get set by all the heat and without anti-seize are quite difficult to remove.

But....
Its your time and your truck.
I just hate to see people waste their time and possibly damage their truck.

 

This is where you are wrong...it is not the exhaust gasses that get hot but rather the convertors design is to have compounds such as platinum, rhodium and a few others I can't remember off hand, react with CO and unburnt hydrocarbons to cause a chemical process which converts the hydrocarbons to basically water and O2...causing cleaner emmisions. The process also causes an extreme amount of heat, enough to cause shavings caught in the cat to melt. This is why a car with a misfire is so harmfult to the cat as it generates more heat than it was designed for and damages the internals of the cat (essentialy it melts internally).

The shaving may or may not cause any damage to both the cat or the turbo but my original question was for help from anyone who has done the pyro install this way and what exactly was involved...we can argue all day long which was is better but I have already decided to do it the more difficult way. I do thank you for your opinion but what I really need to know is what to expect.

I definitly thank you for the pre-warning of stubborn studs and will take some extra with me as well as some penetrating oil to soak everything ahead of time.

 

I've said this many times before, Start the truck and drill it while it is running all chips get blown right out, no problems.
Note: make shure you wear goggles!

Rick

 

Put tape over the tailpipe and drill. You won't have to worry about shavings as soon as you drill through any shavings will blow out.

 

When I drilled mine I drilled until I almost broke through, blew the chips away, then drilled the rest of the way. I then put a magnet through the hole and kept pulling out the small bits until the magnet came out clean. It took me all of 5 minutes total. When I actually tapped the hole I dipped the tap in wheel bearing grease. Then did the magnet thing a couple more times. No problems. There is NO NEED to remove that turbo.

 

Learned something new today.

Still though as long as i have been on 3 different forums, never heard of anyone having problems.
No arguement intended.

 

Gotta admit I am considering trying the easy route....

 

I did the tape the pipe and run it as you drill thru. 15,000 miles ago. It LAUNCHED the shavings out as the drill went through! Wear safety glasses!!
Mike
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On 2nd gens I don't think it is as important to loosen the turbo.Because the turbo is inline with the exhaust, although I did with my 02. But on the 3erd gens i think its a must. First off you don't drop the turbo. You loosen the 4 nuts pull the turbo back and slide a piece of card board between the turbo and exhaust. Do it this way and you won't have any shavings to worry. This is how I did my 05. Didn't take that much longer. those nuts are a bugger to lossen. I tried my craftsman 12 pt and striped them. Got 6 pt. craftsman and they came loose.

This is how I would do it in my opinion.

 

I literally just got done installing my pyro and boost about 1 hr ago, i drilled it, blew as i was drilling, raeched in w/ a magnent and pulled a good amount of shavings and cranked her up. 2nd egt install, no problem and i only have 422 miles on the truck ( yaeh, almost made it a week w/o mods . Just thought i would share since the dirt is still on my hands, getting dark, will finish fuel gauge in the morning.

 

I've heard of the grease on the bit trick and drilling while running. I learned another one a couple days ago. Take your bit in the drill and spin it slowly while rubbing it with a magnet a couple times. Everything will stick to it no prob after that. You just might have to wipe it off a couple times during drilling. Went it after shavings and came back clean everytime.

 

Drilled mine with the engine running 38000 miles ago, no problems at all. Blew the shaving right out. Wear some gloves, after you drill the exhuast gas gets a little hot when your tapping the hole.