Don, when you receive a set of 04.5 and up injectors are you currently modifying the stock nozzle or are they getting a nozzle made new from a blank? If you are using the stock nozzle do you modify the same nozzle that is on the set of injectors you receive or do you sometimes use a nozzle that has already been made ahead of time from a set received earlier (to speed up turnaround time?) Thanks, Jay

 

Well, it depends. On most 04.5 - 07's we are using the stock nozzle. We increase the hole size, grind a few key places, and then hone the holes to smooth and balance the flow. If the nozzles arrive and are in tip top shape we will use them. If they are in poor shape, we replace them.

In some cases we use our blank nozzle, but that is rare for the 04.5 - 07 engines. Mileage injectors are the custom nozzle, but they cant be used with aggressive pressure boxes. Most of the high powered guys with an 04.5 - 07 have a heavily modified stock nozzle. Probably 90% or more. And sometimes it comes down to just being out of stock on one or the other.

If we get a set of injectors in with lots of miles or they just have cruddy nozzles and all we have are blanks, we will use a blank. Or the other way.

On the 04.5 - 07 engines, the stock nozzle is very good part for performance if worked up correctly. The information is posted on my site as well.

I wish we had time to have nozzles ready ahead and waiting for injectors to come in. Even if we did, the testing and calibration of the injectors themselves is a time consuming event. That can take up to 6 hours alone. Adding the nozzle preparation time and the hours to build a single set can be rediculous.

Sorry this is so long, but I guess this is the best time to spell out what exactly happens here once the injectors arrive:

1) Catalog all serial numbers and manufacturing dates to customers name
2) Remove copper washers and wipe off excess oils, etc.
3) Ultrasonic clean the spray nozzle to remove all traces of anything ( lol )
4) Fully test injectors operation to include:

a) Nozzle opening pressure
b) Spray pattern testing ( make sure all holes visually spray in the correct pattern at 1000 bar or 14,500 PSI )
c) Soleniod test ( visual check for cracks, breakage, perform a passive test for DC resistance and coil inductance )
d) Volume test each injector for sprayed quantity and back leak quantity
This is a series of 4 tests typically, but can be more if needed. We run the injectors on the test bench simulating a running engine. Changing RPM with solenoid exitation times. This test runs at full pressure. We find injector body cracks, measure back leak, etc during these tests.
e) Log all data from the testing to each injector serial number and call the customer if problems are found for repair.

5) After the repairs are done and the nozzles are ready, the assembly begins.
6) Once assembly is done, the injectors go back to the test bench for testing and calibration. This can be the longest part of the job. Calibration can be tedious and time consuming. Opening pressure is set first using the test bench. It fires the solenoid while we dial the pressure back until the nozzle just begins to open. This pressure is important and can change from nozzle to nozzle as parts are swapped. In some cases, all we need to do is run the injectors for 4 quick tests and our work is done. Unfortunantly, most guys run pressure boxes or have high mileage injectors that required repair and then have to be calibrated. It has taken up to an hour additional per injector to get some of them in spec. This write up is a very truncated/shortened version of what happens.

One of these days we will have some videos done up showing every step from start to finish. It is an interesting process. The repair and performance tweaks are mind blowing sometimes. The time and technology that goes into a single CR injector here is insane.

All the above happens after the nozzles are done. That in itself is a long and precise process too.

 

Holy cow! Thats a lot of stuff!

I would LOVE to see a video of the process. I think that kind of stuff is really cool to watch.

 

Thanks Don, very informative. I will have another set coming your way before long. Jay

 

Id like to see that myself. I just cant learn enough, fast enough when it comes to diesel performance.

 

im fermilier with setting pop presure on 12 and 24v injectors, but how do yoiu do it on a system where the presure its suposed to open at varries from 5-25kpsi?

 

another question...
you had talked in another thread about the majority of back leek issues is caused by the ball and seat wearing.

ive seen posts on several forums re: rebuilding the cr injectors, and most of them talk about regrinding the ball seat. i see other posts about the tapered seat being flash chromed, and that its not thick enough to grind and have the seat last. they say that the recomended procedure is to fully grind thru the seat, then replate it.
is this true? could you shed some light on it?
im trying to justify the cost of new bodies vs. reman bodies vs. trying to rebuild them my self, i saw the reseal/rebuild kit was only about $20

 

Maybe some of the guys here dont know you work for ( DDP ) DynoMite Diesel, but I know you do. I am not going to get into a back and forth on opening pressure. Your company has already stated that CR injectors dont have a set opening pressure and I disagree.

 

I know you guys ( DDP ) sell new Bosch or reman Bosch injectors.

In contrast we repair CR injectors or we can get them brand new injectors as well, but the cost is considerably higher.

 

Just a couple of questions. If you reuse the stock nozzles how well do they hold up to higher pressures compaired to new blanks. I thought I heard your nozzles are good to over 30k psi. I was running the 4.2, not sure if that was the cause of my injector problems or if they had been that way for awhile. If they had been that way for awhile what should have been some signs of the problems.

Do you think it is possible to do injectors for a 6.7 strickly for low emmissions, the engines are de-tuned.

Can't wait to get my F2's back and installed.

Ty

 

One other question, how do you know which size to go with. I did the F2's but what would determine going with 1.8 or something else.

 

Its not too late and since you are in Colorado I really would go to a 1.8 VS a 2. Just a suggestion. We can always make em larger later for a small fee.

 

If you think it is best. I am getting a 62/65/13ss in a few days and hopefully by this fall the rest of the twin kit to go with it. I am at 7000' elevation. I am not sure what the difference is or if there is much power difference but I do trust your judgement.

 

7000 feet. Yes, go with 1.8's

 

Ok lets do the 1.8. What are those 90hp.