Do I wait for Death Wobble, or cure it now?
Do I wait for Death Wobble, or cure it now?
I have a 2005 4x4 with only 50k on it and except for a little right pull, it seems to drive just fine. I use the truck mainly to tow a trailer or to put my truck camper on it and use it on vacations and have no plans on selling it.
So do I just wait for DW to happen (while on vacation), or do I spend some money now and nip it in the bud? Your opinons?
So do I just wait for DW to happen (while on vacation), or do I spend some money now and nip it in the bud? Your opinons?
the following is my experience with death wobble.
04.5 with 100k on the clock, no death wobble, never even a hint, stock tires, no lift.
Steering box was wore out (should have installed steering box brace when the truck was new). I knew my tie rod and drag link were going to wear out someday and my steering box was beaten to death so I had to get a refubished box (Red Head Steering Gear). I thought I'd replace everything at once. So I ordered the 2008+ steering components and an aftermarket stabilizer from Bilstein (pressure adjustable stabilizer).
I put the new steering gear + box brace, stablizer, & 2008 steering tie rod and drag link. Drove truck, serious death wobble!
The cause of the death wobble was the stablizer, after I installed it the nitrogen pressurized reservior somehow leaked (valve stem leaked) and the stablizer became a poor damper.
Removed 2008 steering tie rod and drag link, put stock 04.5 inverted Y setup with stock steering stablizer back on. No death wobble. Now 120k mi later everything is still fine, no wobble.
The point is, if you have death wobble I'd first check the steering stabilizer.
I'll put the 08+ tie rod and drag link bck on once I get a factory steering stabilizer for the 08+ trucks.
04.5 with 100k on the clock, no death wobble, never even a hint, stock tires, no lift.
Steering box was wore out (should have installed steering box brace when the truck was new). I knew my tie rod and drag link were going to wear out someday and my steering box was beaten to death so I had to get a refubished box (Red Head Steering Gear). I thought I'd replace everything at once. So I ordered the 2008+ steering components and an aftermarket stabilizer from Bilstein (pressure adjustable stabilizer).
I put the new steering gear + box brace, stablizer, & 2008 steering tie rod and drag link. Drove truck, serious death wobble!
The cause of the death wobble was the stablizer, after I installed it the nitrogen pressurized reservior somehow leaked (valve stem leaked) and the stablizer became a poor damper.
Removed 2008 steering tie rod and drag link, put stock 04.5 inverted Y setup with stock steering stablizer back on. No death wobble. Now 120k mi later everything is still fine, no wobble.
The point is, if you have death wobble I'd first check the steering stabilizer.
I'll put the 08+ tie rod and drag link bck on once I get a factory steering stabilizer for the 08+ trucks.
id fix it as first signs of wobble...
it veering off to the side might just be alignment... mine gave at 200K, and the whole front end was gone.. at 65 mph wobble hit... did it once, did it right, and so far so good..
used moog replacements, bilstein shocks, and stabilizer...
it veering off to the side might just be alignment... mine gave at 200K, and the whole front end was gone.. at 65 mph wobble hit... did it once, did it right, and so far so good..
used moog replacements, bilstein shocks, and stabilizer...
Not sure what your plans might be as far as what parts to upgrade or replace, but if it was mine I think I would order up a steering box brace to install as preventive maintenance, and call it good for now. I think those are good for protecting your steering gear from wear, as well as adding rigidity to the structure. I don't think I would go as far as to start replacing ball joints or tie rods yet, until they were worn out of spec. That's just me.
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Not sure what your plans might be as far as what parts to upgrade or replace, but if it was mine I think I would order up a steering box brace to install as preventive maintenance, and call it good for now. I think those are good for protecting your steering gear from wear, as well as adding rigidity to the structure. I don't think I would go as far as to start replacing ball joints or tie rods yet, until they were worn out of spec. That's just me.
I told them that I would have to think about it. I already installed the steering brace and I think I'm going to go with this suggestion...unless I win at the casino
You may never get death wobble because nobody is sure what causes it. If ANYONE was sure, they'd sell the repair by the train car load.
I had it so bad I was afraid to drive my truck. It was a death trap. I got rid of it by doing things others have done that didn't help. What that tells me is that a multitude of things can enhance it, and several things can mask it.
I think if you changed your caster to 5 degrees negative you would get death wobble right away. Caster would be my first start, getting 3.5 to 5 degrees positive is a great start.
After that I'd make sure my joints are good, my stabilizer is good and my steering box is good. All that stuff helps control it, but doesn't cause it. Plenty of vehicles drive down the road just great with no steering stabilizer, worn out ball joints, slopping steering gear boxes, worn out shocks, bad tie rod ends, and they don't have death wobble.
The geometry of the design is the problem, added to the straight axle. Bigger tires accentuate it, as does lift (which changes caster) and rear loads (caster again).
Good luck.
I had it so bad I was afraid to drive my truck. It was a death trap. I got rid of it by doing things others have done that didn't help. What that tells me is that a multitude of things can enhance it, and several things can mask it.
I think if you changed your caster to 5 degrees negative you would get death wobble right away. Caster would be my first start, getting 3.5 to 5 degrees positive is a great start.
After that I'd make sure my joints are good, my stabilizer is good and my steering box is good. All that stuff helps control it, but doesn't cause it. Plenty of vehicles drive down the road just great with no steering stabilizer, worn out ball joints, slopping steering gear boxes, worn out shocks, bad tie rod ends, and they don't have death wobble.
The geometry of the design is the problem, added to the straight axle. Bigger tires accentuate it, as does lift (which changes caster) and rear loads (caster again).
Good luck.
I did all the fixes to my dad's '06 4x4. Carli leveling kit, McQuay Norris Extreme series balljoints, Bilstein 5100 stabilizer, PSC steering box stabilizer, Carli high mount stabilizer (Bilstein 7100) and a Carli track bar all with 35" ProComp Xtreme ATs. Words straight from the guys at Carli are that we covered everything that they have found to cause the dreaded death wobble. Alignment was done after all components and tires were installed with no caster adjustment that I'm aware of (we know the guys at the shop we go to and we talk about everything they're doing while they're making adjustments) and not a single bit of death wobble here.
IT might be interesting to know what tire make is most prevelent with the DW.I have 63000 miles, tow heavy and never had a problem other than a replaced steering box at 15000 miles,have always run the AT TOYOS.
You may never get death wobble because nobody is sure what causes it. If ANYONE was sure, they'd sell the repair by the train car load.
I had it so bad I was afraid to drive my truck. It was a death trap. I got rid of it by doing things others have done that didn't help. What that tells me is that a multitude of things can enhance it, and several things can mask it.
I think if you changed your caster to 5 degrees negative you would get death wobble right away. Caster would be my first start, getting 3.5 to 5 degrees positive is a great start.
After that I'd make sure my joints are good, my stabilizer is good and my steering box is good. All that stuff helps control it, but doesn't cause it. Plenty of vehicles drive down the road just great with no steering stabilizer, worn out ball joints, slopping steering gear boxes, worn out shocks, bad tie rod ends, and they don't have death wobble.
The geometry of the design is the problem, added to the straight axle. Bigger tires accentuate it, as does lift (which changes caster) and rear loads (caster again).
Good luck.
I had it so bad I was afraid to drive my truck. It was a death trap. I got rid of it by doing things others have done that didn't help. What that tells me is that a multitude of things can enhance it, and several things can mask it.
I think if you changed your caster to 5 degrees negative you would get death wobble right away. Caster would be my first start, getting 3.5 to 5 degrees positive is a great start.
After that I'd make sure my joints are good, my stabilizer is good and my steering box is good. All that stuff helps control it, but doesn't cause it. Plenty of vehicles drive down the road just great with no steering stabilizer, worn out ball joints, slopping steering gear boxes, worn out shocks, bad tie rod ends, and they don't have death wobble.
The geometry of the design is the problem, added to the straight axle. Bigger tires accentuate it, as does lift (which changes caster) and rear loads (caster again).
Good luck.
Many who suffer from DW also seem to me to be those who use BF Goodrich A/T tires, and others here have mentioned a possible connection too. I believe they are a load range D configuration that often get installed on our trucks, so I'm not sure whether that model of tire or the load range has more to do with it.
My death wobble was during the time I ran BFG AT tires, but they were load range E. They were 305's which is probably a bit wide for the rim. I had to keep them aired to 80 lbs and if they weren't rotated at least every 5,000 miles they would start to cause DW.
Death wobble happens on these trucks because of the solid front end and coil springs. DW is never caused by a bad steering stabilizer as the stabilizer's function is to reduce, control, and mask front end vibration. DW is most often caused by worn track bars, followed by worn tie rods, ball joints, improper alignment, out of round or balance tires, worn steering box and control arm bushings. Often the cause of DW is not one component that is obviously bad but multiple worn parts that individually are not worn enough to warant replacement necessarily but when taken togegher they harmonize to amplify small road input into what is known as death wobble. With enough experience you can anticipate and prevent DW with a sudden input to counter road inputs; a stiff stab on the brakes or a twich of the steering wheel can often prevent the onset of DW but only to a point. The only real cure to DW is a properly maintained front end. Keep in mind that the bigger you go the easier you will get DW.


