count me in on this one. am going with 4 10" kicker L7's behind my back seat. fits purty goot too.

this system that you are building is NICE.

 

Wish I had a Mega so that I have more space for subs !!

Hope you get some ideas from this install.

 

Good going...will be following your progress

 

I'm in! Looks great!

 

PART 3: Sound dampening

At first, I wanted to cover the whole cabin with sound dampening material, however, this could turn extremely expensive and maybe a waste of money since the effects wouldn't be that noticeable.

Some facts:

1) This is a 3/4 Ton truck, not a Mitsubishi Eclipse. Each door of the truck is very hard and may weight more than 2 doors of a normal car.
2) All 4 doors already come with a plastic-poly material, and if I want sound deadening, this material will have to go, because if I put both it will become very thick and won't be able to put back the door panel.
3) The vibration of the rear door speakers is minimal, however the Orion HCCAs go down to 40hz on the front doors, so that may give some noise or vibration.

So, based on those facts, we decided only to put dampening material on the edges of the component and coaxial speakers, and also on the door behind the speakers, but we are leaving the stock plastic covering there.

Also, under the sub box we are adding dampening material and on the back side that will hold the amps.

Front door stock material:



Dampening material behind and around the rear door speaker:



Dampening material behind the rear seat:



Dampening material under the subbox:




Still, I will see how it works like this. If I get any rattle or noise after the complete installation, I may have to open the door panels again and cover them completely with dampening material. I hope I don't need to do this.

 

BURNERS,

Will you please snap a pic of the materials used for fabricating the fiberglass portion of the sub box.



Can't wait to see the project complete!!!!!!

Should sound awesome!!!!!!!

Keep posting pics through the process. Too bad we aren't going to be able to have a sound clip of it.

 

use spray in dameping material. I had really good luck with it in previous trucks. Spray the door skin so it does not add thickness to the door panel area.

 

Actually the door skin behind the speaker is fully covered with dampening material. The one that I don't want to cover is the front, since I don't want to remove the original white stuff that comes with it.

I will definitely use spray if after the installation Im not satisfied with the current damping result. Thanks for the advice.

 

the white lining comes off pretty easy and you can re-install it.

 

Subwoofer Box Update:

The fiberglass dried pretty good overnight after all the coats that we gave it. Now the MDF work has started to make the design of the top of the box.

Here are some pictures of the current work:



As you can see, we are going to lift the box to the level where the folding flat was, and we are including the cup holders in the box by raising them too.



The center box that you see will hold the Stinger Capacitor, however, all wiring will be hidden and you will only be able to see the cap and the subs when you lift the seat.



The seat will have to be raised 1/2" from the floor to give some air to the subs and width to the amps, any higher than that and we will have problems attaching the seat again.

 

Coaxial Speakers:

The coaxial speakers of the rear doors are now installed. They were easy since they are the same size as the original speakers, 5 1/4" . All wiring was replaced with high end wiring that goes directly to the amp.

 

REAR VIEW CAMERA:

This actually came out really good. I thought there were several options to install the rear video camera, as you can see in the photo below.



With option #1, we had a problem on how to attach the base of the camera to the bumper, and wiring would have been a problem too. Also, the height of the camera would have been too low.

Option #2, looked like a very good spot for the camera, but because of the camera angle, the bumper will hide a lot of left and right views, so we were not happy with it either.

Option #3 was the best at that moment, by drilling a hole for the camera behind the license plate, that way the camera will be hidden. Problem was that we would lose part of the left side views and also, the license plate would have to be 1/2 apart from the bumper, so it wouldn't have looked nice.

BUT THEN !!!!

One of the installation guys had the great idea of: Hey, why not put it inside the tailgate spoiler !! And voila !! The rear camera is now inserted inside the tailgate spoiler. It looks very hidden, and you wouldn't believe the angle that I get from it, I can see the whole bumper an also get to see around 30 feet behind me.









If anyone installs a rear view camera in his Ram, this is the place to do it. If you don't have the tailgate spoiler, get one, they are just $80.

 

More Subbox Advances:

Here is how the components will fit. Now we have to wait for the box to finish drying to be able to take it out and start with the fiberglass work and give the box a nice shape.

 

DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nice job!! Tell us how you ran the wires for the door speakers with that darn connector there? I hear it is a pain in the you know what. if you could take pics of that, it would be great. AGAIN, CONGRATS!!

 

Looks good. I never thought about the rear spoiler for mounting the camera, I like that. So after the glass work is done are you painting, or doing carpet/vinyl on the box? Gonna keep my eyes on this one.

Darren