3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

CFM+ install

Old Feb 24, 2008 | 11:30 AM
  #31  
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From: Phoenix, Arizona
Originally Posted by JohnInNH
"But by far, the best reason is when you loosen those 2 intake bolts closest to the valve cover, there WILL be Rust and Locktight/ sealant debris in your manifold, because they are tapped straight through to the plenum. You DO NOT want that crap going through your motor/turbo."

Thanks... That explains it .. I did not know they were tapped through, I thought they were blind.

SO what I thought was a 10 minute job is more a a 30-45 minute job.

Maybe I am over estimating what the CFM will do for me, but I think it will give me more low end, mid range, moderate to low throttle position efficiency (MPG)

I could care less about full throttle 2300 RPM HP I am after MPG and efficiency. If things flow better at 1/3 throttle while rowing the gears... and while cruising down the highway at 1750 RPM.. Then I want to install one.

If with average driving and just cruising along it does not gain anything I can't see me wasting the $300.

Can you use the factory bolts for the 2 closest to the valve covers? (to avoid scraped knuckles in the future when working there)

I am VERY close to ordering one.. CFM Owners WITH the grid heater still in place... your feedback is very helpful. What's your opinion/results
Here's a copy of my driving impressions:
Today I had the opportunity to drive the truck after the installation of the CFM+ intake. Fuel economy went up .5 MPG, to 20 MPG. Not a real signifigant gain, but at least it didn't go down.

Another benefit seemed to be in throttle response and Turbo spooling. Again, it was nothing to scream about, but it was a noticable "seat of the pants" performance improvement.

I can't help but think a Heater grid delete would take better advantage of the increase in flow.

At this time, I use the truck in cold weather, in remote locations in Northern Arizona, where plugging in the block heater isn't going to be an option, so I don't know if I'll be doing the Heater Grid delete any time soon.

Still, I'm happy with the purchase and would do it again.

And as far as re-using the bolts closest to the valve cover, yes, I hear you can do this. Most people who do this plan on changing their injectors in the future, I guess it helps save your knuckles...
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 11:36 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Luvnacumns
Wasn't there a problem with these blowing up???? Maybe I am thinking something else....
Lol! There is a pic of one floating around this board and others of one that blew up.

If you ask me, the validity of this being a common occurrance was "Blown out of proportion".

I've heard of Aluminum intakes failing, too... But I don't think anyone is taking pictures of those...
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 11:55 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Luvnacumns
Wasn't there a problem with these blowing up???? Maybe I am thinking something else....
kantdrive55 had one blow up while on the dyno, and there were several other reports of similar failures on www.competitiondiesel.com, but some people chose to flame the people who reported the failures, rather than take the warning for what it's worth.
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 02:35 PM
  #34  
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From: NH
You have GOT to be kidding? The intercooler or the rubber connectors would let go first. I doubt even 150 psi would be a problem. (My race bicycle tires hold 125 psi) With maybe a few spikes of 48-50 PSI.. MY truck at the most on a regular basis sees only 40-42 PSI.

If it sees enough pressure to burst feel lucky as it will have saved your motor... or a lot of other things broke just before the CFM horn lets go.
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 02:47 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by chipmonk
kantdrive55 had one blow up while on the dyno, and there were several other reports of similar failures on www.competitiondiesel.com, but some people chose to flame the people who reported the failures, rather than take the warning for what it's worth.
Yep I remember reading that.....
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 02:55 PM
  #36  
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Here is my pic of the CFM+ along with Adam's of Winspeed grid heater spacer. My truck did not even notice the darn heater is gone. It starts just like it did before on the first crank within a second. It even starts at the summit of the Sierra at Donner pass last month when it was 14 degrees. I don't know if I picked up any HP/TQ but it made sense to me when I looked at the grid heater and the OEM horn and how congested it was.
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 03:15 PM
  #37  
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THey sure look good!!!!
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 03:50 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by preloader
I thought mine was clean




Oh yeah... I like the plain one much better ! The Carbon Fiber is clean but almost out of place.
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 06:59 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by JohnInNH
You have GOT to be kidding? The intercooler or the rubber connectors would let go first. I doubt even 150 psi would be a problem. (My race bicycle tires hold 125 psi) With maybe a few spikes of 48-50 PSI.. MY truck at the most on a regular basis sees only 40-42 PSI.

If it sees enough pressure to burst feel lucky as it will have saved your motor... or a lot of other things broke just before the CFM horn lets go.
why they might have exploded is anyone's guess. it could be anything from a design flaw to a bad run of them, but again it was just mentioned as a fyi kinda deal, but some came up with this conspiracy theory, that it must have been staged failures. the cfm+ SHOULD be able to handle these pressures, but if there was a manufacturing defect, that left it weakened before it was ever installed on a truck, failures like the one that kantdrive55 experienced don't seem so unbelievable.
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 07:40 PM
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From: NH
Maybe the word "Exploded" is what had me wondering... a 50 psi pressure differential and exploded don't give me the same visuals as a semi tire in a cage with 150 psi when a split rim lets go, or when a tipple charge of bullseye powder in a .45 acp 1911 blows the grips off. That's a tad more than 50 PSI.

I am not saying it did not happen, was there ever an explanation or feedback from the manufacturer? What's the "rest of the story"???
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 07:52 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by JohnInNH
Maybe the word "Exploded" is what had me wondering... a 50 psi pressure differential and exploded don't give me the same visuals as a semi tire in a cage with 150 psi when a split rim lets go, or when a tipple charge of bullseye powder in a .45 acp 1911 blows the grips off. That's a tad more than 50 PSI.

I am not saying it did not happen, was there ever an explanation or feedback from the manufacturer? What's the "rest of the story"???
i believe someone from cfm+ posted something on this forum, but it was removed by admin. i never got to read it myself, but i heard that it was seen as an attempt at free advertising. would really like to hear their take on it as well.
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 11:11 AM
  #42  
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From: Tucson,AZ
I would like to Thank Eric at Tri Valley Performance.I orderd one from him. talked to him on a friday afternoon after I emailed him that morning which you all know is great service getting a call back right away.Got a tracking number that night.Said he does not usually do mail order but again another great customer service experiance.The product was easy to install maybe 1/2 an hour. Gained a little seat of the pants and got about 1 mpg more with highway driving. Thanks again to Eric and his dyno testing of the intakes and great customer service. Mike
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