I just finished the tedious endeavor of installing my helix2, hamilton 110 pounders, and ARPs.

I have heard from a few people that it should idle smoother. On mine the tune of the exhaust is smoother, the sound it makes is smoother, however it lopes a little if that makes cents at all. It is about halfway between a stock truck and the modified sledpullin cumminses. that is what it sounds like except not as prominent and no intermittent smoke rings. all the way up to about 1500 rpm. I have given sufficient breakin time and driven it for a while.

Is this normal for a Helix 2 install? If not--any Ideas on what i should troubleshoot?

 

how you tried it with different tunes? Have you double checked valve lash?

MY helix 2 idles smoother than stock cam..and the idle is more of a deep tone


on a side note...it spools the turbo better dont it

 

it does spool the turbo faster. the tunes dont make any difference for the idle. I plan on checking my valve lash again when i change my oil and check torque on headstuds. i figured that might be it, but it doesnt seem like im loosing any power and it doesnt idle rough like its missing on 1 or 2. it makes the lope sound on the throttle from just above idle to about 1600 rpm.

 

i wouldnt think it would be the bigger injectors?

 

those have been in for a few thousand miles with no problems. i will be back in the shop soon to change the oil and check the head stud torque anyways. i will just readjust the valvelash then. Another symptom i have noticed is it runs a little hotter at all driving conditions respectively.
BTW- it would have been nice to know from ARP that the back middle stud would not clear the bottom piece of the valve cover and that it would have to be ground down--BEFORE i put everything back together.

thanks for the help.

 

I ran into the same problem with my studs. Couldn't figure out why the cover wouldn't sit flat. Finally pulled it apart and saw the dent from where the stud was hitting. A little time with a carbide bit and some parts cleaner and problem solved but it was irritating that it was not mentioned in the directions (or lack there of).

 

i got around to the mandatory oil change this weekend. while i was in there, i rechecked my headstud torque and adjusted my valvelash and that seemed to be the problem. because on the original install I numbered everything and put it all back in its original place hoping i wouldnt have to adjust the valvelash and the exhaust valves were WAY too tight when i checked them. so if they were .020 before and less than 0 after, then the helix 2 must have way more lift on the exhaust lobes.

Anyways.... live and learn i guess. Nonetheless, It runs much smoother now. smoother even than before the cam was installed and there is a noticeably deeper idle. The turbo spool is ridiculously better with stock tune and slightly noticeable on crazy larry. It smokes less and runs cooler at all respective conditions. I still havent worked up the nerve to push it past 3500 yet.

DECISIONS?-- If you can afford to have your truck sit for a weekend or so and have the patients for a tedious job (especially when you break off a center punch and have to pull the head).....It was well worth the $500 for all the benefits.........
HOWEVER.... If you do not fall into 1 or more of those categories I would never pay the 9 to 1200$ quoted labor charge I got from local shops with a best case 3 day turnaround.

 

Your exhaust valves were never shutting all the way...haha...that was funny.

It is hard for a performance cam do do its job when the combustion chamber is atmospheric!

 

indeed this is true. like my dad always says...
live and learn, die and forget it all.
I figured that was the problem when it sounded almost like Big Bad Dodge at Idle.

 

i thought it sounded like the valves were a bit too tight


im glad you got it worked out!

 

That's thing is coming along, huh, Beck? Lookin good, man.

 

Yeah. You have surpassed me on the track and the dyno. Went to Barona Dragway Last night and i am having trouble launching. 2nd is too short, 3rd in 4wd hops and lags, 3rd in 2wd has no traction through 3 gears. I think once I put my 37's on it. It will turn 2nd into a more appropriate launching gear. Just wait till I get my bonus for 0321. I may need a roll cage to legally dial in.

 

Nsomniac... did you change the pushrods as well?
I agree totally with your SOP results. Mine is much smoother and the engine is quieter. I also have the fluid dampner and that made a lot of difference from stock. Mine runs so smooth there is barely any indication through the steering wheel. Love it!

 

Well, I do have 2.5's, and it's an auto... You need to look at CP3's soon, and put some bigger sticks in that baby. You've got the supporting mods for it. (might need to get some more cowbell...)

I'm impressed. My pocked bottmed out, so I'm just kinda coasting for now.

Why would you need a roll cage? 11.49 is the rule, are they that bad over there?

John P's son, Johnner, has a stupid fast hand shaker. Get with him, he's doing really well. His username is banshee. He's a heck of a guy, too.

The info is in this thread...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=219986

 

Oh, yeah... when I get back, I'm putting my truck on a diet. I'm gonna build some fenders for mine so I can loose the bed, build some ladder bars, and there's rumor of a hood stack... ! Shhh... I'm also going to look at some racing seats so I can get rid of all that extra weight in the cab. Probably just buy a cheap Kirkey and make brackets for it. I can do all that stuff for cheap. Maybe get a bigger pump for my w/m...