Read this from pirate 4x4 he blew up the stocker on level 3-3. It says it was from lack of oil to the turbo, nevertheless the first thing he did was put it on 9-9. Here is the article .

even if the stock turbo could put the truck in the 13's you aren't considering how many times it will run 13's. You might run a 13.9 five times and on #6 it might explode. If you want to run 13's and do very minor tranny mods you WILL break something and will have no warrenty to cover it. Drag racing PERIOD will break your tranny, even without any programmer or chip of any kind. You're talking about putting the most aggressive and safety feature free box there is. Your truck will be in the 13's, but it won't be reliable anymore.

Good friend of mine worked in a tranny shop for a while. He said that the diesels that came in with tranny problems were usually towing up a steep hill and broke off their input shaft. This is on stock trucks.

Roommate had an edge juce/attitude for about 5k and he tore his TQ apart in about 2k mi. The TST is WAY more agressive than the juice.

Whatever you do, you need to make sure you won't run into problems by fixing all weak points in your drivetrain, and that costs money. If you get your HP up to run 13's, and don't upgrade the tranny correctly, you will end up upgrading it because your TC will be useless and so will your clutches inside the tranny, and if you launch in 4x4 your intermediate and output shafts are in danger.

Cheap dragracing diesels are a myth. Parts cost money. Racing breaks parts. Racing costs money.

I read your first post and it sounds like you're on a budget. Upgrade the tranny before you buy a turbo, then do necessary fuel system mods. You have a TST so you're good on electronics. After all that THEN upgrade the turbo. It sounds like you want to do everything in the wrong order. Turbo first, tranny breaks then you upgrade it anyway. Or tranny first, stock truck seems like diffirent truck that can take a new turbo. HAVE FUN!! this stuff is frustrating.

 

I tried to check them out but their website...well...stinks. All I could find was EDGE modules. I'm looking for turbos!!!! What the heck? I am computer savvy, but couldn't get anywere. WTH?

 

go here. relentlessdiesel.com

They changed their site. I guess they haven't added everything back yet.

 

Ya. I saw that one. Thing is, do they offer twins for a 2nd gen? I don't have a 3rd! I wanted to see if there were any more options and what those prices were.

 

Which one are you suggesting:

http://www.industrialinjection.com/m...e+Turbocharger

or

http://www.htturbo.com/dodge.htm#b

 

If your on a budget I would suggest the cheapest one. They are pretty much identical. Alot of times you can find a better deal on the HTT. If you decide to get a phat shaft don't go through Industrial Injection direct. They won't give you anything off. You can get it through the dealers cheaper. I would look into HTT's new series of turbos.

 

whats the stock one I have, Holset what?

Also, what will be the cheapest turbo that can handle low 13s? Another words, what turbo is the best bang for the buck? would it be another HOLSET or what?

 

Sorry, no twins for 2nd gen, just 3rd.

 

[QUOTE=PanteraGSTK]

If you want to run 13's and do very minor tranny mods you WILL break something and will have no warrenty to cover it. Drag racing PERIOD will break your tranny, even without any programmer or chip of any kind.

That depends on how you treat it. I could make a 1000 runs on a stock truck and never break the tranny. For that matter, I'm confident I could make a 1000 runs on my truck and not break the tranny.

You're talking about putting the most aggressive and safety feature free box there is. Your truck will be in the 13's, but it won't be reliable anymore.

You can be in the high 13s and and have a reliable truck. I haven't had a single problem with mine. It's basically 14 flat, but if I went back to shorter tires I'd be in the 13s. I could, and plan, to do a little more and still have reliability. That's the beauty of these trucks. You don't have to build the crap out of the engine to go 13s like an old V8 with a huge cam. You can stack a couple boxes and then turn them down or off for daily driving.

Roommate had an edge juce/attitude for about 5k and he tore his TQ apart in about 2k mi. The TST is WAY more agressive than the juice.

I had my juice/att on for 12k before I upgraded the TC. Now, I will say that it was slipping a little, and I would absolutely agree that a TC should be before any power adders, but again, 2k mile destruction all comes down to how you treat the truck.

Whatever you do, you need to make sure you won't run into problems by fixing all weak points in your drivetrain, and that costs money. If you get your HP up to run 13's, and don't upgrade the tranny correctly, you will end up upgrading it because your TC will be useless and so will your clutches inside the tranny, and if you launch in 4x4 your intermediate and output shafts are in danger.

I agree with needing a TC/VB to go 13s. I also agree with the 4WD lauches (under boost). The stock internal clutch packs, however, will hold more than 500hp, it has been proven.

Cheap dragracing diesels are a myth. Parts cost money. Racing breaks parts. Racing costs money.

Depends on how fast you want to go. Like I said, I make 1000 16 second passes on a stock truck and never hurt a thing.

QUOTE]

 

Thats what im talking about.

 

I was all for a Big Single's until i saw Rjohnson's dramatic results (EGT and Power) over a HX-55 14cm. I feel that big singles are good in their own field. Pullers trying to stay in a certian class, people tring to save some $$$......but man....twins will give you the best of both worlds......Cool EGT's with TONS of fuel and Quick Spool up....when set to do so. Im really torn myself....but my vote went to the twins.....

 

So do all the twin set ups have an external wastegate so you can control boost. I am still personally probably going to do a single, because of $$$, but I'm going to wait until January and see what my bonus is like. If it's big enough, I might go twins, but I don't want to get into the head, so I need to keep boost down in the 40s. The biggest reason I want a turbo is for egt reduction, the power is just an added bonus.
So if my main purpose is towing and egt reduction and not drag racing or sled pulling, is a single good enough for me? I would like to see a good 200 degree drop in egt but not have a spool problem when towing. Is this a realistic expectation? I wish I could find someone who has tried the new Edge BB Jammer that they claim is designed for towing. They claim quick spool and low egts, but they are also trying to market and sell the product so I can't neccesarily believe it. Has anyone used a single that spools very close to stock but has a large enough compressor wheel to increase air enough for egt reduction - regardless of power increase?
On my mitsubishi race car, I run a highbred that basically uses the exhaust housing and wheel form a quick spooling turbo, mated with a larger intake housing a wheel that moves alot of air. I would think that someone would make something similar for the Cummins.
Please give your input on my particular use needs. Thanks.

 

I'd definitely go with twins if I had to buy a turbo again. Heck,, I may still.

I'm really not all that impressed with the "new" breed of singles, at least not the one I have. It's a 66mm. Laggy without a downloader or pressure box, and it doesn't cool all that well IMO.

It can put the numbers down on the dyno, but not on the street. I have major EGT issues on the street...Unloaded. I can only drive around at 400-420hp settings without defueling because of excessive EGT's just getting on the freeway. Maybe I'm asking too much?

Go with twins. I don't think you'll regret it.

 

They do....its called a HX35/40 Hybrid. Its better than stock, but there are better options out there. Talk to Rjohnson......He used to PEG his Pyro with the single, 2 seconds into WOT, now he can get to 110 MPH and the needle is just getting into the red.....600+ HP, 13.13 1/4 (WHICH i know he could do better)......THAT is impresive to me to say the least.

 

[QUOTE=omaharam]ok, since we're in the TRANS subject, what is the least I can do/get away with if all I want is 13s? NO towing, NO sled pulling, NOT really intense drag racing at the strip, More like Highway off a roll runs from about 20mph or so and obviously street racing from a light. I dont have to break torque and if I do, maybe only like 10psi or somthing NOT harmful. It can also be a 2WD launch and NOT 4WD.

Can I just get away with new Torque Converter and Valve Body? considering what I told you and how I will be driving. This isnt like NON-STOP drag racing, more like an occasional thing, thats all.

Wouldnt the Torque converter also help my times considering my trans will shift faster? So will the TC and VB be just fine for me needs? I really dont want to spend a CRAP load of money considering I wont be taking the full advantage of it especially considering it costs $2k and up.