3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 03:02 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by PanteraGSTK
I think a stock clutch is said to hold like 800ft lb. of tq or something.
I slipped my dads 03 stock clutch in 4 gear with the tst on 4x2. His won't handle 800ft lb's. I put a Crazy Larry on a buddys new 06 and we slipped the clutch in 5 minutes....
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 03:13 PM
  #77  
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From: Nebraska
[QUOTE=VikingDiesel]
Originally Posted by omaharam

so based in runing 13s and what I need, a TC and VB is all I need. NOT A BILLET INPUT SHAFT and nothing else?
It depends on what you mean by 13s. There is a big power need to go from 13.80s to 13.10s. I also don't know if you can go 13.10s without a pretty hard launch with a truck that is still fairly streetable. Like I said with my truck, I am not in the 13s at this very moment. If I put a set of 265 tires back on, I would be in the 13.90s and that would be launching in 4WD at about 7psi. If I launched at 15psi, would I break? Don't know. Not going to find out. If you don't have some self control, Id say spend the $5k. If you want to go 13.6s -13.8s, I think it can be done with the right combination of parts without hard launches and with just a TC/VB - no billet, no deep pan, no flexplate. If you want the absolute best from your truck, the same truck would obviously go 13.3s - 13.5s with a high dollar tranny that you could launch under full boost. I went with less money on the tranny, knowing that I could control myself. If you are talking about hammering it when already at a roll, you could have 600hp and no tranny worries. There are many variables - not with the truck, but with the driver. It can be done. My truck is proof. I will be in the mid to upper 13s with just a TC/VB. But I also have no intention of ever going after 12s. I get my fix in my racecar, and have had too many problems with street racing to need a 7000lb brick going 110mph in 12 seconds.
Wow, that sounds fun.
reality check
Ok, I'm better now.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 03:15 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by omaharam
Not clutch - clutches - as in an automatic. Your sig doesn't say if you're an auto or a 6spd. I don't have the first clue what a stock clutch will hold in a 6spd. And don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing on your driving if it is a 6spd because you are putting down some power, but I could burn the clutch out of any vehicle in 426 miles if I drive it like an idiot.
Oh my fault, I am blind in one eye . And actually I was shifting at 2000 rpm hit 5th and hit it hard enough to go to 40 pounds of boost, and that was all she wrote.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 03:28 PM
  #79  
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From: Nebraska
[QUOTE=PanteraGSTK]
Originally Posted by VikingDiesel

Some say a flexplate is necessary at 500hp or above, others say the TC slipping is the reason the flexplate goes out. You'll find out if you need a shaft when it breaks. If it breaks.
Oh, you guys are killing me on the flexplate. I promised Dave Goerend that I would not share what he told me about flexplates. He believes he has dicovered why they break, and it makes 110% perfect sence. He doesn't really want it spread around to the other guys building converters. If you are in the market to upgrade your tranny, and one of the things you are considering purchasing is a flexplate, call Dave and talk to him about tranny parts. While you are talking about TCs, VBs, tranny parts, billets shafts, etc., bring up the need for a flexplate. He will most likely tell you what he has found. I made a promise and will not put it on this forum. If you buy a Goerend converter, you will not need a flexplate.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 03:31 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by omaharam
... I'm seeing that 1400 more like 900ft and so I just back out, I'm not sure how hot it would get on a full run. I turn the snow on and it doesn't really seem to change.

Anyway, the tires are pretty new and I like the way they look.
The Snow's works best when not at WOT. Mine is the same. It does slow the rate of increase in EGT's but not the top temp. I don't know why this is true... but many have had the same results. If you back out of it for a sec or two... and than got WOT again, the egt's will drop 2-300* and NOT climb back up!!
This won't work in a 1/4 mile, obviously, but does wonders when towing! I assume you do get a drop when you do this? If not, need more pump pressure or bigger nozzles.

When I was over fueled and racing... I pegged my egt gauge at 1550*. I carried a stop watch and as long as I did not stay in the red for more that 9-10 sec...never had problems. It's not 'how hot you get'... it's 'how long you stay hot.'

I'm in the same boat on the 315's! With 265's I could (have) done low 12's and 105 mph.

RJ
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 03:46 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by omaharam
Oh, you guys are killing me on the flexplate. If you buy a Goerend converter, you will not need a flexplate.
So how far is the stock flexplate going to go with this "special" converter?
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 04:03 PM
  #82  
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From: C.S.U. Pueblo Co.
Originally Posted by Luken
So how far is the stock flexplate going to go with this "special" converter?
I doubt the pieces will go very far when it grenades
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 04:03 PM
  #83  
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i ran a 13.55 with stock turbo, stock injectors, quad disk converter, hts valve body, crazy larry stacked with torque dog, afe stage 2, and 5inch exh. i broke the flexplate with this setup. it can be done. don't know how long the stock turbo will last. hopefully with my new setup i'll run around 12.70s. after i replace my blown intercooler.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 05:31 PM
  #84  
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From: C.S.U. Pueblo Co.
How many times did your run 13 second passes?
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 05:57 PM
  #85  
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From: Nebraska
Originally Posted by greyrig05
i ran a 13.55 with stock turbo, stock injectors, quad disk converter, hts valve body, crazy larry stacked with torque dog, afe stage 2, and 5inch exh. i broke the flexplate with this setup. it can be done. don't know how long the stock turbo will last. hopefully with my new setup i'll run around 12.70s. after i replace my blown intercooler.
who's converter are you running? I'm betting it came off an assembly line type build where they have "tolerances". This issue has nothing to do with the internals of the converter. It has to do with how carefully the case is built.
Oh what the heck.
The tabs where it bolts to the flexplate have to be exact - not close - exact. The stock converters, as well as other aftermarkets that have been checked, may be off slightly in mounting height. The flexplate is very thin. When you bolt the two together, if the converter is not absolutely dead on, it puts a little "flex" in the flexplate and binds it up. That puts stress on the entire plate and all the bolts - both the flywheel and the converter ones. That's why some break around the crank and others break out by the converter bolts, and still others break so bad you can't tell where it started. Just think if your crank was just a tinsy little bit bent. Eventually it would cause problems. The converters out there are hit and miss - both stock and aftermarket. They are not checked in this area - at least not to be dead on. Every broken flexplate that Dave has encountered, the converter tabs were off on measurement.
In order for all this to hold water, you have to believe what Dave is claiming. After talking to him for about 30 minutes on the subject, I personally believe him. But to each his own, and everyone gets to choose how they spend their own money. I tend not to go overkill on stuff. I like to see how well I can make things work for cheap. Back in my early twenties I had a 72 Camaro running 12.0s with a $2000 2 bolt block engine, while everyone else was spending $4k and using 4 bolt blocks to run slower than me.
If you have the money to spend, buy the best parts available. If you don't have unlimited funds, you have to decide where to spend them to get where you want to be.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 07:54 PM
  #86  
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From: la
ive ran 10 -15 passes in the 13s. eventually i had to build my trans. dusty at HTS is running 13.0s with stock turbo and stock injectors.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:06 PM
  #87  
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[QUOTE=omaharam]
Originally Posted by VikingDiesel
If you are talking about hammering it when already at a roll, you could have 600hp and no tranny worries. There are many variables - not with the truck, but with the driver. It can be done. My truck is proof. I will be in the mid to upper 13s with just a TC/VB. But I also have no intention of ever going after 12s. I get my fix in my racecar, and have had too many problems with street racing to need a 7000lb brick going 110mph in 12 seconds.
Wow, that sounds fun.
reality check
Ok, I'm better now.
most of my street races are usually off a roll, just NOT a 60mph PLUS roll, thats when I have like NO power. Whats up with that anyways, how can I still have strong top end power?
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:15 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by greyrig05
i ran a 13.55 with stock turbo, stock injectors, quad disk converter, hts valve body, crazy larry stacked with torque dog, afe stage 2, and 5inch exh. i broke the flexplate with this setup. it can be done. don't know how long the stock turbo will last. hopefully with my new setup i'll run around 12.70s. after i replace my blown intercooler.
how many passes did yu do before yu broke your flexplate? How much is a new flexpate anyways? So all the TRANS mods yu did are HTS VB and TC, thats it? How much for the two?
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:46 PM
  #89  
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From: la
i actually broke my flexplate when it hit lockup one day just crusing down the road. i prob. had 10 runs on it then. when i ran the 13.55 i had a hts valve body and a roadrunner quad disk thats all. now im running fully built hts. new turbo and other goodies.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 10:12 PM
  #90  
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if your old turbo could handle 13.0's why did you upgrade?
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