I got a barring tool from snap on (though its made by another company, blue somethin er other) and I was going to install my fluidamper today but the barring tool will not enguage the flywheel, I can not get it far enough through the bellhousing. I checked the packaging the tool came in and it said for all cummins B and C series motors from 1987 and up.

I took the inspection plate off of the passenger side of the motor and I dont know if its not quite fitting into the hole or whats goin on but if any one has any ideas I am all ears.

Could it possibly be the wrong tool?

It also says it works on some case motors and one of those was a 5.9.

 

A big flat head with a towel in the inspection cover works fine too to block the engine rotation.

 

In a pinch you can pull the bottom inspection plate off, and it you have a large thin screw driver use it to turn her over. Its no barring tool but it will get the job done the same.

 

some times they feel like they are "loose" or not engaged...but really it is...are you sure it's not fully engaging?? no offense Will, I know you know what your doing but if it's you first time using one a guy might think it is not engaging..
other then that I cant see why it would not work???

 

You could also just use the alt. nut to rotate the motor over. It will rotate the wrong way but that is fine.

I would suggest getting a little hammer and tapping the Barring tool into the spot and see if that helps.

 

Mark, I only messed with it for a couple of minutes cause I had to get back to work but, I could turn it with my hand and the motor was not spining, I will hopefully have more time to mess with it tomorrow.

I was wondering if maybe the G56 bellhousing was a little differant then the NV and autos???

Nuttymopar, I dont know that the alternator pully would work cause I didnt get the barring tool to rotate the motor as much as I got it to hold the motor from spining when torqueing down the fluidamper and I am doin this alone and I would think one would need someone to hold the alt pulley while tqing the damper.

I did beat on the barring tool with the bottom of my fist to see fi I could get it to go but no good.

Keep the suggestions coming and I will report back after I can mess with it again some more tomorrow.

Thanks all

 

I got one from Snap On [ Blue Point = there secondary line / low end ] .
I got it to turn the eng , but it made a clunking noise , like it was jumping teeth , I looked at it from the dust cover and the teeth on the flywheel were fine .
I have compared the Snap On & Cummins barring tool , there is a collar on the snapy that it spins on , but the Cummins does not do the jumping like the snapy does .

 

Tried tapping it in with a small hammer and it did nothing for me. I think one of the tow is the wrong size, I dont know if it is blue point or cummins but one of the tow are apparently out of spec. I guess I will try and find a cummins barring tool now and wait two more weeks to install this fluidamper, or maybe just try the big screwdriver and towel trick.

 

I know the screwdriver or prybar will work. When I loosen mine up to adjust the Tone Ring mod, I take off the inspection plate of the tranny and stuff a big prybar up there and then go to town on the pulley taking it off and putting it on.

 

Just so I am clear (and I know most of you fellas have autos) is there only 1 inspection plate? And doesnt the barring tool go in on the passenger side once you remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the cover, that covers the flywheel teeth and the other hole that exposed the bolts to remover the flexplate?

 

check the barring tool there is a snap ring on the tool that can be moved to change the depth the tool goes in. i know that is the way mine is set up and its from blue point as well.

 

It wont go in deep enought to even get to the snap ring, there is still some tooth showing on the baring tool when it bottoms out. Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

something is stopping it from going in then try reaching in the inspection hole and to figure out how deep the fly wheel is. and just so you know that snap ring comes off and you swap the spacer ring on there and it changes the depth of the tool.

 

Now I have to go check mine .

 

If it matters, I have a flywheel spacer from SBC for my clutch but it should have kept the same depth as factory as I did NOT shim my starter out.

I think whats holding it back is simply the diameter of the tool, why I dont know but I cant find anything else it could be.