so i just installed my banks inner cooler, and high ram, and it didn't do a thing, temps still too high.i am not sure where to go next, running the edge on 2, and TST on 5/5, and no BDDL on right now, lots of black smoke, and before it shifts into drive, the temps are at 1500, and i have the defuel set at 1450.
maybe my gauge is not right, maybe i am not that hot, but i can't seems to figure this all out.i want to get injectors, but i think that would be going backwards. any input on this
on a side note, if i would have known that this would have made no difference, and would have left it in the box, what a pain in the A** to install.

 

I notice the same thing with my truck. The temps can jump up fast. I am not sure where to turn to next except maybe a set of twins... I can clean up the black smoke on my truck no problem, so I believe the turbo is working fine, but man the temps rise quick...

 

You might want to find an instrumentation/cal shop to check your pryo for error. I've seen BIG differences in them. Craig

 

funny you say that, because to think about it, i think i am still running the one from my old isspro gauge the lasted a whole whopping 3 months.i might have not have the TST coupler in there, and i am guessing that they might be slightly different in reading resistance.just a thought

 

5" exhaust might help.

 

water/meth injection

 

You have to use the one that comes with your guage!!

 

i am wondering why some people on this site can, beat their trucks down the track, and not get hot, and i can't even turn my boxes up for good usable power, and getting too hot. i was trying to stay away from water/meth injection, but that might be the only option right now if i wanna play. i know for sure i don't want to take that inner cooler out.

 

New higher flow injectors could help with the slight advance in timing they provide.
I assume you have everything turned on or up for running down the track, and not during daily driving?

The next step I would take is water/meth injection.

MikeyB

 

Thats not what I wanted to hear. My temps get outa hand too and I was thinkin the IC would be the next step, I guess I might have to look elsewhere. I guess I could just save the $ and get twins or maybe a cam and springs.

 

when you installed your bhaf, did you try removing the plastic/ rubber air deflector to the left of the intercooler as you stand looking at the truck with the hood up? kinda held in with a plastic push rivet, guides the air in behind headlight, and then to the side inlet that the stock air box used. I removed mine last year, and by using a remote air temp sensor for a home desktop weather station, held inside the bhaf for two runs, same flat grade, same 5 mile stretch..... with the deflector removed I read a 7 degree F drop in incoming air temp to the bhaf, translate that through the intercooler for a bit cooler air, for free. this allows the air to flow right in towards the bhaf, and I think helps push some of the hot engine bay air away from the filter. Nice rattle can flat black on all the aluminum fittings keeps the truck lookin clean from the front, nothing hokey looking through the grill.

 

maybe a cam?they say it helps with egts.

 

Why don't you try turning the Te setting down on the TST? With the Te setting so high you're probably dumping so much fuel in there early that the rail is draining and can never catch up. Then the atomization sucks and EGT comes up. The EZ only magnifies what the Te settings do. So by this time it really doesn't matter if you have an upgraded IC or not.

I get the best dyno numbers, least smoke, and coolest EGT with the Te setting on 0 or 1 (TST early twins program). When I first got the TST my SOP meter told me the higher Te numbers were better. Then I dynoed a lot and was told otherwise.

I think if you played around with this first before and after the IC change you would see a benefit with the new IC.

 

You need injectors so you can lose 1 or 2 of those fueling boxes or programmers. What kind of power are you seeing on the dyno?

 

Yep....What JSteiger said 5/5 is toopid. Going over 3 on the TE is just wasting fuel as all you get is smoke and no power....been dynoed dozens of times and it doesn't make performance. If you are driving conservatively the TE settings give some grunt out of the hole but for wot runs....not good. The biggest things that have dropped temps for me are F1 DonM injectors...Flux 1....Don't need bigger if you are stacking, Water injection for hills and over 15psi boost, F1 DonM Helix 2 Cam, What are your boost numbers like? You aren't losing boost through a fitting somewhere are you. The Banks should have been good for atleast a 70 degree drop. ks