I am guessing these are pretty good gauges,any comments are appreciated.
Question
Pyro is 1600 deg F ok or do I need 2000 deg F
Boost with stock turbo and Volant CAI is 35 psi ok or do I need 60 psi
Trans short sweep gauge 250 deg F,or full sweep 260 deg F,probablt either I am guessing,just personal preferance
comments? thx

 

I have the Ultra Lites, got 'em before the factory match came out.

That said,---

I think the 1600 EGT is fine. If you run over that your engine is done.
I vote for the 60 PSI boost You may never power enhance but the 60 is still easy enough to read.
The tranny gauge is your call. The gauge where the relative needle position most catches your attention is the best choice.

Good luck.

 

I have the Factory match and love them. They are VERY close to exact match.

My pyro goes to 1600 and Boost to 60

 

AM makes pretty good stuff. Not cheap, but good.

Full sweep gauges are a better choice. They're more accurate, and generally easier to read in a quick glance.

You want to match the scale of the gauge to the expected range. If the truck is stock, you should never see >35psi for boost. Most if the time your boost is probably around 10-12. If you use a 60psi gauge, the needle will only be in the lower half of the scale, and won't be as accurate to read.

Same thing with the pyro. If the needle is approaching 1500*, you should be doing something about that.

 

Thx guys,I noticed though the factory series have white letters outlined with black,my 2006 gauges more match the phantom series with just black lettering,though the factory style has a better matching needle.

 

I tried two factory match A.M. pyrometers. Neither one worked 100%. Both of them worked part time, like our current President . So I got Isspro's pyro and it has worked 100%. I also like the fact that if the probe goes bad, I don't have to change the whole wiring harness.

 

I had a problem with my Autometer Z-series pyrometer, the needle was jumping around. I talked to a factory tech and he said it was probably a bad ground. I re-grounded it and it has worked perfectly ever since, about two years.
Just my two cents-John

 

I grounded my Autometer gauges in three different places (under dash, engine block, and finally the battery), to no avail.

 

What do you mean to no avail..what problem did you have with them

 

I grounded mine to the battery, I must have gotten lucky.
John

 

I have the Autometer Dodge factory match gauges, 0-35 boost, 0-1600 pyro, and 100-250 trans temp. I like them a lot. Be sure to get the LED dimmer switch. They are close to factory, but I think that the ISSPRO guages are a closer match to the OEM's.

 

Both pyrometers worked intermittently, even though I grounded it in all the different places I mentioned.

 

I have the factory gauges and have always liked AM. There is a reason that they have been around as long as they have. Sure you might pay more for them than other gauges but you usually get what you pay for. I have been using AM gauges for over 30 years for both racing and street use and have very seldom had a problem with them . As far as a factory match they are not exactly the same. The numbers on the gauges are outlined in black instead of being a solid black. One more thing I could suggest is when trying to get your gauges to dim with your other gauges all you have to do is tie into the wiring harness from the switch. You will need remove the lower panel by removing the two screws underneath, then you will also have to remove the panel that your radio sits in. To do this you will have to remove the 2 screws underneath it and then you can pull the panel out of the dash - it is sometimes very tight but it will come out if you pull hard enough, just make sure you remove the 2 screws first.This may sound complicated but once you do it it seems pretty easy. So now you have removed 4 screws underneath both panels and have pulled them out. Now you will be able to access the screws that hold the dash in. After you remove them you can usually pull the dash bezel off. Now you should be able to get at the light switch and harness. If you have a test light just probe the wires one at a time with the light switch on and while probing use the dimmer control and carefully observe your test light and if you can see it dim while using the control this is the proper wire to tie into. I don't use scotch locks when tying into harnesses so what I do is cut the wire where I can work on it and use heat shrinkable solderless connectors, or else solder the wire in and use heat shrink. On my vehicle the wire I tied into was I think the second wire on the top which I believe was a brown with a yellow tracer but be careful because I believe there are 2 of these wires. I hope this helped and good luck


My truck is a 2006 - 2500 4x4 laramie

 

OK thx ,how are ISSPRO factory match gauges the EV2 series seem a better match than the factory autometer ones