anyone run dave goerend converter
#31
Same convertor here love it. No check engine lights either.
#32
I've got the 900/400 converter, and I get check engine lights all the time. It's easily controllable. The code pops up when there's not enough rpm drop when the converter locks. If you're in OD, the drop is almost always sufficient.
When running an exhaust brake, or running empty in tow/haul, the rpm drop when the converter locks at 30-35 mph at light throttle is almost imperceptible (sp?), causing a code. It seems to happen after a few lockups, not just the first one. Anyway, no biggie, I clear it with my Smarty from time to time.
Leave the EB or Tow/Haul off, and no codes for me.
The Goerend stuff is great! No shuttle shift, and I didn't think a built trans could shift so well (almost built, still running stock clutches).
When running an exhaust brake, or running empty in tow/haul, the rpm drop when the converter locks at 30-35 mph at light throttle is almost imperceptible (sp?), causing a code. It seems to happen after a few lockups, not just the first one. Anyway, no biggie, I clear it with my Smarty from time to time.
Leave the EB or Tow/Haul off, and no codes for me.
The Goerend stuff is great! No shuttle shift, and I didn't think a built trans could shift so well (almost built, still running stock clutches).
#33
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I've got the 900/400 converter, and I get check engine lights all the time. It's easily controllable. The code pops up when there's not enough rpm drop when the converter locks. If you're in OD, the drop is almost always sufficient.
When running an exhaust brake, or running empty in tow/haul, the rpm drop when the converter locks at 30-35 mph at light throttle is almost imperceptible (sp?), causing a code. It seems to happen after a few lockups, not just the first one. Anyway, no biggie, I clear it with my Smarty from time to time.
Leave the EB or Tow/Haul off, and no codes for me.
The Goerend stuff is great! No shuttle shift, and I didn't think a built trans could shift so well (almost built, still running stock clutches).
When running an exhaust brake, or running empty in tow/haul, the rpm drop when the converter locks at 30-35 mph at light throttle is almost imperceptible (sp?), causing a code. It seems to happen after a few lockups, not just the first one. Anyway, no biggie, I clear it with my Smarty from time to time.
Leave the EB or Tow/Haul off, and no codes for me.
The Goerend stuff is great! No shuttle shift, and I didn't think a built trans could shift so well (almost built, still running stock clutches).
I have the 900/400 too. It's a nice converter. It's probably the tightest I would want to run for my charger. I have run two of them in the last year, and the one in it right now feels a bit tighter than the first one I had, but I still haven't thrown the code.
I have to agree about the transmission though. It is one smooth shifting tranny. Especially compared to my last setup.
#34
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I've got 150,000 on my original clutches.. We even reused them after the rebuild cause they looked so good. I've got alot of abuse on those poor things.
#35
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Anyone care to explain the differences in the blade count?
IE, does a 17 blade have a lower or higher stall then a 15 blade?
What are people running at high elevation? I'm around 5k and drive up to around 8k.
I'm running 35s with 3.73s and don't really want to go too much lower of a stall then stock.
I talked to Dave a long time ago about converter choices but can't remember exactly what we recommended. I think he said something about maybe 200 RPM lower stall then stock. Is that the 15 blade perhaps? He said it was one step tighter then stock maybe?
I've driven an 05 once that had an aftermarket converter and when you punched it from a stop you only hit 1400 RPM. I found this totally unacceptable even with the Bully Dog in Performance.
What are you guys recommending
IE, does a 17 blade have a lower or higher stall then a 15 blade?
What are people running at high elevation? I'm around 5k and drive up to around 8k.
I'm running 35s with 3.73s and don't really want to go too much lower of a stall then stock.
I talked to Dave a long time ago about converter choices but can't remember exactly what we recommended. I think he said something about maybe 200 RPM lower stall then stock. Is that the 15 blade perhaps? He said it was one step tighter then stock maybe?
I've driven an 05 once that had an aftermarket converter and when you punched it from a stop you only hit 1400 RPM. I found this totally unacceptable even with the Bully Dog in Performance.
What are you guys recommending
#39
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Like Spooler said, the 15 blade left cut is just the design and cut of the stator in the converter. He has quite a few different stator designs and if you talk with him about your wants and needs, he will get you set up with the right one.
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