to all you guys who are running this setup, how wide are the rims you are using? i hear there are 2 different widths-7.5 and 8.25 inches. i was wondering which is the preferred and how much do they stick out front and back? do some use the thinner rims in the front and wider ones in the back?although i do not like the look of fender flares, i think i would like to go with the widest possible (8.25)even if is sticks out a bit, but maybe if you guys got any pics to share to prevent me from making a costly mistake either way?

thanks,
darren

 

This is very important I have 8.25 for my front and outer rear, but you need the narrowest you can get for the inner rear I believe mine 7.3/4 and I still only have a 1/2 inch of space to the spring.

 

I agree with JD Dearden. My fronts do not stick out at all, but the rears stick out about one and a half to two inches. I have barely half an inch between the sidewall and the rear leaf spring. Not to hijack the thread, but depending on where you buy your wheels, be careful. I went to American Force in Miami, Fl to have my conversion done. I have Alcoa aluminum on front and the rear outers and steel on the rear inners. They had to drill out the valve stem hole on the steel wheels to fit the valve stem. Long story short, I have a slow leake on both inner steels wheels. I took the truck to a truck tire specialist. They said American Force used the wrong valve stems on the rear steels. They are shipping at their cost two new inner steel wheels with stock size valve stem holes. They should be here tomorrow and I will get them mounted. It seems they used the same type of valve stems on both the steel and aluminum wheels. They are sized differently and can't be used on both materials.

 

You "SHOULD" be able to run the 8.25s all the way around without any problem as that is what they were deisgned to do; however, that is not always the case. I will let you know if my 6 8.25s work. If not, I am going to have to use the inner 7.5 rim I have on now to make it work. I am hoping that with the new suspension will come greater clearance.

8.25s will stick out 1.5" wider than 7.5s in the rear since they are each 3/4" wider. The 295s are each 1.3" wider than the 255s (based on actual dimensions) which is .65" on each side, so you should be exactly 3.45" wider at the outside of the rear tire with the 295s than you were with the 255s and 7.5" rims.

 

I just got 6 Aluminum 8.25s rims I hope they work I really don't want to put a steel rim on the back. But it will be a week or 2 till I find out.(Still searching for tires) I wan't some fender flares for the back anybody know of any??

 

If I am not mistaken, the mounting surface for the aluminum wheels is thicker than the mounting surface of the steel wheels. This will increase the amount they stick out of the fenders a bit more. My steel and aluminum combo stick out on the rear about one and a half to two inches.

 

Yeah, after having already spent $5K on my first set of wheels, I just could not justfy the extra $1400 for the two aliminum rims in the back.

 

....this is all very good info guys!!!

 

A few things here, first I had the 8.25 inner steel and took it back because I could not even fit my finger inbetween the tire and spring and went and got the narrow rim. Also if you run two aluminum's on the back they will forge together, why nobody has developed something to prevent this I don't know. I also cut of my extra bolt length on the rear springs.

 

I believe their is some sort of ring you put between the two aluminum rims (so I have heard) I need to check that out.
How did you get your adapters and tires balanced??

 

Oh man if you could find out about that I would love to run that, you don't need to balance the adapters but my tires were balanced at Les Schwab just like normal rims and tires.

 

If I have an issue with my inners rubbing, I will just move the leaf springs inwards.

 

Does anyone here know where I can get the exact revs per mile on the Hankook 255/70 22.5 tires. I was told by American Force they were 36 and one quarter inchs tall. I had my speedo re-calibrated at the local Dodge dealer, but I don't think it is exactly correct. I think they used 619 revs per mile to calibrate the speedo, but it feels like it is still a little off. Thanks guys.

 

I don't know what tires you have, but this site would have the info. I like the Smarty because you calibrate based on Overall diameter.

http://www.hankooktireusa.com/produc...g=truckandbus1

 

Try to find the little "Your Speed Is" traffic sign near school crossings, etc. I used one of those after I installed my 19.5's to check speedo calibration. Turned out my speedo is pretty much spot-on, even when checked on different RADAR signs in different cities. Better than John Q. hitting you with the LADAR and giving you the "calibration record."