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AirDog II Install Annoying!

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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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From: Jonesborough, TN
AirDog II Install Annoying!

I installed the AirDog II this weekend and wanted to talk about it. First of all the install wasn't that bad. The longest part was getting the bed off, but it is not that bad with a hoist and a couple of buddies. The part that annoyed me the most was drilling the holes in the sending unit. On the AD 2 you pull the sending unit out of the tank and drill 2 holes on each side and 1 on the top. The problem is that the sending unit in the instructions was a little different than mine. The unit in the picture was smooth on top mine had (in my own words) a plastic honeycomb like reinforcement on top where I was supposed to drill the hole for the new fuel pickup. So I used a dremel to cut all the honeycomb like reinforcement and smoothed it down and drilled my hole. I felt like this should have been noted in the instrctions. I paid extra for the AD 2 and had to do a lot more work. Sorry for being so long winded. Anybody know what I am talking about with the sending unit? Anyway I got everything back together and so far so good. No leaks and running good. I like the product, but wish I didn't have hack up my sending unit so much.
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 11:45 PM
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From: Chestermere, Alberta, Canada
You did not need to grind down the honeycomb on the top of the cannister. Just drill the big hole between the honeycomb and done. It seals from the inside out, just install as per instructions.

I don't know why guys take the bed off the truck ??? The tank can be dropped in like 20 minutes with the help of a friend. Its a piece of cake !

You don't even need the instructions for that install ! The hardest part i found was pushing the hose onto the 1/2 pushlocks, GROAN !

Their cannister mod works excellent and you can run the truck down on vapors the same as stock fo sho.

AD 2 is awesome thus far ! Enjoy !
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 06:10 AM
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When I did mine, my unit looked just like Diesel 87 discribed. I just didn't see how the sealing washers where going to keep the water out. So I machined the surface smooth as possible with my drumel.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by lucey
You did not need to grind down the honeycomb on the top of the cannister. Just drill the big hole between the honeycomb and done. It seals from the inside out, just install as per instructions.

I don't know why guys take the bed off the truck ??? The tank can be dropped in like 20 minutes with the help of a friend. Its a piece of cake !

You don't even need the instructions for that install ! The hardest part i found was pushing the hose onto the 1/2 pushlocks, GROAN !

Their cannister mod works excellent and you can run the truck down on vapors the same as stock fo sho.

AD 2 is awesome thus far ! Enjoy !
The reason many lift the bed is because many want to keep the tank in its installed location so the drawstraw measurement will be accurate when installed. Dropping the tank with any kind of diesel in it can cause the bottom of the tank to flex.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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With the AD 2 it does not matter about the draw straw. The AD 2 comes with their modified draw straw kit and acts exactly as the factory draw straw, so no issues with the tank bowing down and creating the 1/4 tank issue like previous kits. I just think in my opinion removing the bed would be way more head ache. JMO.

As for water entering the cannister i think the big o ring that is on the inside would seal that more than sufficient.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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That would be true except for the hole you need to drill for the AD draw straw.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 10:44 AM
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The bed wansn't hard for me because I had a hoist. Just take off 6 bolts and unhook the wiring. Well there was honeycomb on the bottom too, so I machined the top so the gasket washer would seal the hole I drilled. Another problem I had was the bulkhead fitting that goes down through the top of the sending unit. The threads were corss threaded before I even put the nut on. I really like the system just had a few little problems that I shouldn't have to deal with.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 10:52 AM
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How does everyone plug the original fuel line going to the CP3? Are you supposed to plug it at the end of the line where the banjo bolt was or take the line off at the stock filter assembly?
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 01:11 PM
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From: Chestermere, Alberta, Canada
The hole you drill is sealed inside with the washer oring. If you want to get super picky about it the top honeycomb is actually sealed at the top with the top rubber washer, it covers the honeycomb part. You just have a small airspace between the bottom of the honeycomb and the top. See
Pics

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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Diesel87
How does everyone plug the original fuel line going to the CP3? Are you supposed to plug it at the end of the line where the banjo bolt was or take the line off at the stock filter assembly?
I personally removed the steel line from the banjo bolt to the filter housing and installed a rubber line and threaded a bolt in for a quick fix after I had some fuel sneak out of the line at a meet a few weeks ago. You could probably just use a bolt with 2 washers and a nut to plug the banjo fitting, but the way I did it got the unused line out of sight for the most part.

I wanted to remove the whole canister, but what about the wiring going to the housing?

A buddy and I will be doing his AD II install sometime soon, any good tips for the install?
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 03:30 PM
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From: Jonesborough, TN
I don't think you can remove the stock filter assembly because the return line is still used and I think it is hooked to the filter assembly, because I wanted to do the same thing.
I don't really have any tips it is pretty straight forward. The problem I had with my sending unit was the honeycomb on the top. Lucey was trying to help me with my problem but my problem is that my sending unit is not the same as his or the unit in the AD instructions. The top is different. Be carefull when drilling the holes on the bottom, so you won't crack the plastic. I would suggest using a dremel tool so you can have more control on what you are doing.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 03:49 PM
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Anybody else have any suggestions on how to plug the stock fuel line going to the CP3? Just plug the line or take the line of at the stock fuel filter? And what to use?
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 03:56 PM
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I left the canister and pump intact on the truck. The fuel line I plugged with a screw, after getting all the fuel out of the line that i could. No problem in over a year and a half.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 04:44 PM
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I had to do the same thing as Diesel87 when I installed my Air Dog II last week! The sending unit in my ’05 does not look like the one in AirDog’s instructions or the one posted by lucey.

The webbing on my ’05 was much closer together and was on both the inside and outside of the sending unit. It wasn’t smooth on the bottom as in the aforementioned pictures. I first tried to drill a hole through like the instructions suggest, but the threads on the pickup were not long enough. Like Diesel87 I had to use a Dremel and smooth an area of webs off the top of the sending unit.

They need to work on the design of that pickup to accommodate the newer sending unit.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 06:44 PM
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I like the way the AirDog II's sales pitch is "no more drilling a hole in your tank for a draw straw." But with the AirDog II you have to pull out your sending unit and drill 3 holes in it. LOL!!!
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