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600 HP - How To Get There

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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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From: Hobbs, New Mexico
600 HP - How To Get There?

My goal is to have a 600hp daily driver using the truck in my sig.

These are the modifications I plan to add to get me there:

ATS or BD exhaust manifold
Garrett Stage 2 GT3782R turbo
Helix 2 cam (I know it won't add much power, but I want the extra smoothness, efficiency, and quicker spool up)
Flux 1.6 or 1.8 injectors from Don M
Arson III CP3 kit
Possibly an aftermarket intake horn?

I am seeking input from the experts on whether this combination will acheive 600 hp. I want to still be able to pull 10k+ lbs when I need to (I know I'll probably have to turn the Smarty down) and get reasonable mileage since it is my daily driver. I also want quick spool up from the turbo. I am open to any suggestions and appreciate any input.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 01:56 PM
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You might want to rethink the turbo. The Garrett Stage 2 GT3782R is good to about 450HP.


Joe
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sr4440
You might want to rethink the turbo. The Garrett Stage 2 GT3782R is good to about 450HP.


Joe
Do you have any other suggestions for a turbo that will support 600hp and have minimal lag?
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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I really don't know, I use my truck to tow heavy. If you were going to do your mods over a period of time, I would get a stage 3 with a stage 2 EH and then when you need it, upgrade the housing. That would get you to 550 HP. Or you could just get a set of twins. or add a S425 to your stocker.

Joe
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 12:56 PM
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I had 580 in my truck with a sledpuller 66 turbo and it had less lag then the twins I put on
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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People are getting around 600 with stock sticks, and the Garett stage 2 I think is a little small but I am not a garett expert. There are some guys that know a lot about them on this site. I would never tell anyone to run a 66 unless they had a manual and didn't mind lag, or didnt tow. There are a bunch of turbos that can get you there and spool up pretty quick.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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Being you want to tow, the best option is a set of twins. Stocker over an S475. With a single, you are going to sacrifice a good bit on the bottom end and are going to smoke perty bad just to get going in the summer months.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 06:17 PM
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Randallp84, look in my signature. I have a 2006, which is a little different than yours, but my current mods put me at 575HP.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rock crawler
Randallp84, look in my signature. I have a 2006, which is a little different than yours, but my current mods put me at 575HP.
Ok, cool. Thanks for chiming in. How does your turbo spool? Slower than stock? Do you get a lot of smoke? Also, on what Smarty settings did you achieve the 575hp?
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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I have the same exact truck as you only in a shortbox. My mods are listed in my sig as well as my numbers on the dyno.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by randallp84
Ok, cool. Thanks for chiming in. How does your turbo spool? Slower than stock? Do you get a lot of smoke? Also, on what Smarty settings did you achieve the 575hp?
My turbo spools fine to me. Smoke depends on my current POD and MP8 settings. On the track and on the dyno I get smoke at first but it clears up pretty quick and runs clean once to turbo lights up. I believe my POD setting was 99% on level 9 and about 50% on the MP8. I have heard some say that level 7 does really well too.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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I have the GT3782R stage 2 and I don't think it would make a usable 600 rwhp. I make 400 rwhp at 1175-1200° empty, and just touch 1300-1310° towing WOT in 6th, can't hardly break 1250° in 5th. I can pull a 6% grade in 6th at 17K GCWR (TT, so a LOT of wind resistance) at 213-215° coolant, 225° is the max per Cummins.

For something that spools fast and makes 600 rwhp you are going to need twins. If you have the $$ a GTX3582R/GT4202R would be the cat's meow, with a GT3782R following close behind.

If you want a single to do 600 and spool well it will take some 50 hp nozzles, a decent cam, and a BB turbo (GTX4294 w/ 1.01 a/r housing).

Thou for the ability to make 600 and still tow 10K, the performance of twins will be much better than a single.. as a single that will get you a hot 600 will still be too big to tow 10K without running at 2500+ rpms on every hill, as you will have to back down to 400-450 rwhp for the cooling system. A GT4094R w/.85 will tow good at 450-475 rwhp (problem is that it rarely takes than much hp when towing), but be hotter at 600 rwhp WOT, where a GTX4294 w/ 1.01 will be super cool at WOT 600 rwhp, but need plenty of r's while towing and still be warm.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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I was at 575 hp & 976 ftlbstq before I put my turbo on.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by M1AM14SPUR
I was at 575 hp & 976 ftlbstq before I put my turbo on.
You sig says 476/979?
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AH64ID
I have the GT3782R stage 2 and I don't think it would make a usable 600 rwhp. I make 400 rwhp at 1175-1200° empty, and just touch 1300-1310° towing WOT in 6th, can't hardly break 1250° in 5th. I can pull a 6% grade in 6th at 17K GCWR (TT, so a LOT of wind resistance) at 213-215° coolant, 225° is the max per Cummins.

For something that spools fast and makes 600 rwhp you are going to need twins. If you have the $$ a GTX3582R/GT4202R would be the cat's meow, with a GT3782R following close behind.

If you want a single to do 600 and spool well it will take some 50 hp nozzles, a decent cam, and a BB turbo (GTX4294 w/ 1.01 a/r housing).

Thou for the ability to make 600 and still tow 10K, the performance of twins will be much better than a single.. as a single that will get you a hot 600 will still be too big to tow 10K without running at 2500+ rpms on every hill, as you will have to back down to 400-450 rwhp for the cooling system. A GT4094R w/.85 will tow good at 450-475 rwhp (problem is that it rarely takes than much hp when towing), but be hotter at 600 rwhp WOT, where a GTX4294 w/ 1.01 will be super cool at WOT 600 rwhp, but need plenty of r's while towing and still be warm.
See, I'm not sure what to believe here. I've read several posts on this site where people claim that twins will slow spool down. However, you and my intuition tell me just the opposite. If twins slow spool down, what's the point (other than lower EGTs)?

I think twins would be cool, but I don't want to do it for a couple of reasons. One is that I don't know how to tune them and don't know anybody who does. I'm a quick learner and I know I could do it if I wanted to, but I don't think I would have the patience. The other reason is obvious: they cost a lot more than a single.

I would be ok with a single that could get me 600hp and spools quickly, but is only rated for like 550 or so. Considering the way I use my truck, I don't really care if the turbo is terribly inefficient or ineffective at 600hp because I would very rarely use all 600 ponies. I'm not going to be taking it to the track with any regular frequency. I might take it a handful of times just to see what ETs I could achieve, but it would probably just be a "test and tune" night and I wouldn't be competing with it.

On the other hand, I don't tow very often, but when I do, it's usually not a light load. It's usually 10k +. And from the reading I've done, I would be much happier with twins towing with 600hp because they would net me lower EGTs than a single. This raises another question: If I made 600hp with a single and I wanted to tow 10k+ (assuming I had 50hp or 90hp injectors), would the truck be any good to tow with if I turned the Smarty down to avoid high EGTs, and would it actually decrease EGTs if I turned the Smarty down?

So much to think about. Maybe I need to call a turbo expert for advice.
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