6" lift kit problems
Only problem I've had from my lift was caused by my own fault. Not from them. So how did I get told?
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: In front of the black cloud, MO
Mine had the popping at first, but it was my own fault. Like cquestad said, it was the trac-bar. You just have to tighten the bejeezus out of it. I mean really put the stank on it with a cheater bar, and your popping will be gone for good...
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Klamath Falls, OR
I have had both, a tuff lift, and now a superlift, tuff lift was installed by les schwab, with full warranty.
the first issue, popping, it was caused by the three studs at the top of tuff's lift spacer, one snapped off, causing the spacer to tweek under suspension articulation, spacer replaced under warranty. second issue, tuff shocks, blew out seals in front, out in the woods hunting, running up a logging road. third issue, sway bar drop bracket kept coming loose, red loctite on bolts, and even installed self locking nuts, eventually drop bracket cracked, I removed both, and made some longer ones out of square tubing, fourth issue, dropped pitman arm, tie rod end at new pitman arm worn out in 7,000 miles, dodge dealer denied warranty, parts, labor, and alignment check 245.00.
after that warranty denied on lift, gathered up old parts, and reinstalles stock parts, returned lift to schwab, they credited parts, but not labor for original install.
traded truck (2002 dodge 2500 diesel) in july of 2004, for my current truck.
As you can see, I have been through the ringer with tough country, in the long run it was less expensive to go with the superlift.
tuff country consists of 5" lift spacers (gen 2 ram), dropped sway bar brackets, and cheepo, junko shocks.
superlift consists of 4" longer lift springs, sway bar links that are longer, instead of dropped brackets, and super ride shocks.
I dont mean to sound rude, this is just all first hand experience with this style of lift, I probably got a bad one, or the installer did a crap job, but none the less I decided to go with something different, it seems to ride, and perform a whole lot better to me so far.
I like albertsons raisin bran too, it tastes the same as post, you are right, but that is comparing apples to apples, albertsons raisin bran would be a whole lot different if they advertized it as the same as post raisin bran, and then put dates in it.
the first issue, popping, it was caused by the three studs at the top of tuff's lift spacer, one snapped off, causing the spacer to tweek under suspension articulation, spacer replaced under warranty. second issue, tuff shocks, blew out seals in front, out in the woods hunting, running up a logging road. third issue, sway bar drop bracket kept coming loose, red loctite on bolts, and even installed self locking nuts, eventually drop bracket cracked, I removed both, and made some longer ones out of square tubing, fourth issue, dropped pitman arm, tie rod end at new pitman arm worn out in 7,000 miles, dodge dealer denied warranty, parts, labor, and alignment check 245.00.
after that warranty denied on lift, gathered up old parts, and reinstalles stock parts, returned lift to schwab, they credited parts, but not labor for original install.
traded truck (2002 dodge 2500 diesel) in july of 2004, for my current truck.
As you can see, I have been through the ringer with tough country, in the long run it was less expensive to go with the superlift.
tuff country consists of 5" lift spacers (gen 2 ram), dropped sway bar brackets, and cheepo, junko shocks.
superlift consists of 4" longer lift springs, sway bar links that are longer, instead of dropped brackets, and super ride shocks.
I dont mean to sound rude, this is just all first hand experience with this style of lift, I probably got a bad one, or the installer did a crap job, but none the less I decided to go with something different, it seems to ride, and perform a whole lot better to me so far.
I like albertsons raisin bran too, it tastes the same as post, you are right, but that is comparing apples to apples, albertsons raisin bran would be a whole lot different if they advertized it as the same as post raisin bran, and then put dates in it.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,540
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From: Boise, Idaho
That is the difference...2nd gen and 3rd gen lifts are different.
Sorry you had such a bad go around. Next time...
-I have always added a little extra weld or two when installing the drop brackets
for the sway bar and trac bar. The way bar link mount is revised too. I also
welded that in addition to the bolts. A couple of 2" long fillets go a long way and
are easily removed with the grider if needed. I have never had a loose bolt,
creak or pop this way. I know people will say that should not be required...but it
was an easy reassuring thing to do.
-The Tuff shocks are not good...neither or Superlift, Skyjacker, Rancho, etc.
Bilsteen is the first step into "good" shocks.
-I have no experience with a Tuff 2nd Gen lift...sounds like it did not work out. I
was still a Ford guy then. The craftmanship of the 3rd Gen lift is up to par IMHO.
-There is no torsional or moment load on the spring...it is surprising that the
spacer bolts broke. In therory, as long as you did not jump, the bolts would not
have to be even in place...wonder if they may have been over tightened?
-I am at a loss to why your pitman arm and tie rod ends wore out? They do
nothing different pre vs. post lift.
If I had that same experience as you did...I would have shopped elsewhere as well. Try out some better shocks some day when you have a little cash burning a hole in your pocket. They make a world of difference. Good luck with the Superlift.
We should start this thread up again in a another year. I have 40k on my Tuff lift nnow...sould be double that in a year.
Sorry you had such a bad go around. Next time...
-I have always added a little extra weld or two when installing the drop brackets
for the sway bar and trac bar. The way bar link mount is revised too. I also
welded that in addition to the bolts. A couple of 2" long fillets go a long way and
are easily removed with the grider if needed. I have never had a loose bolt,
creak or pop this way. I know people will say that should not be required...but it
was an easy reassuring thing to do.
-The Tuff shocks are not good...neither or Superlift, Skyjacker, Rancho, etc.
Bilsteen is the first step into "good" shocks.
-I have no experience with a Tuff 2nd Gen lift...sounds like it did not work out. I
was still a Ford guy then. The craftmanship of the 3rd Gen lift is up to par IMHO.
-There is no torsional or moment load on the spring...it is surprising that the
spacer bolts broke. In therory, as long as you did not jump, the bolts would not
have to be even in place...wonder if they may have been over tightened?
-I am at a loss to why your pitman arm and tie rod ends wore out? They do
nothing different pre vs. post lift.
If I had that same experience as you did...I would have shopped elsewhere as well. Try out some better shocks some day when you have a little cash burning a hole in your pocket. They make a world of difference. Good luck with the Superlift.
We should start this thread up again in a another year. I have 40k on my Tuff lift nnow...sould be double that in a year.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 141
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From: Klamath Falls, OR
You are right about the Bilsteen shocks, the rcd lift on my wifes tahoe came with billsteen shocks standard, and thank god it does, I rode in a tahoe with a superlift, and it rode way different.
You know the sad part is, my dodge 2500 rides smoother than my wifes tahoe, so I can only imagine how much better it will ride if I upgraded my dodge to bilsteens.
thanks so much for the info, and advise, I am sure there have been upgrades to tuff country, but it is like going back into a yard where you know the dog there has already bitten you.
You know the sad part is, my dodge 2500 rides smoother than my wifes tahoe, so I can only imagine how much better it will ride if I upgraded my dodge to bilsteens.
thanks so much for the info, and advise, I am sure there have been upgrades to tuff country, but it is like going back into a yard where you know the dog there has already bitten you.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,540
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From: Boise, Idaho
Yes...it takes a while to heal.
Back to bigge's problem...
Any luck with locating the vib? Is it extreme angles on the front driveshaft u joints? You really have to leave the pinion angle at what it is with the caster set at about 5 degrees. You must re index the axle shafts and 3rd member to change one with out changing the other...mucho expensive. Hopefully better u joints can help...
Where are the rock crawlers out there?
Back to bigge's problem...
Any luck with locating the vib? Is it extreme angles on the front driveshaft u joints? You really have to leave the pinion angle at what it is with the caster set at about 5 degrees. You must re index the axle shafts and 3rd member to change one with out changing the other...mucho expensive. Hopefully better u joints can help...
Where are the rock crawlers out there?
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: In front of the black cloud, MO
I had a 38 deg driveshaft angle in the rear of my Jeep YJ, that was with 13" lift and 38" swampers. I had Arizona Driveline build me a shaft with CTM U-joints. No vibes and tough as nails. I had that Jeep flexed every which way possible while rock crawling, and the thing was smooth enough to drive on the street as well. The CTM's are expensive, and high maint. but are indestructible and built for high angles and lots of travel.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2005
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No luck as of yet. I wish at least the front end would disengage so the problem would be limited to 4wheel drive. Tuff Country tech dept has been awesome, to say the least, they are sending me longer upper control arms to try to get back the factory pinoin angle for free of charge and within the week. I have had the front driveshaft lenghtened and rebalanced which made no difference. From what i understand the transfer case angle and differencial angles have to match very close on both drive shafts. I can not find a good drivetrain shop in my local area of Grand Rapids, MI for help either. I geuss ill just wait for the control arms and go from there.
Glad you guys are done arguing so we can get back to my problem. LOL LOL
Glad you guys are done arguing so we can get back to my problem. LOL LOL
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 481
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I have the tuff country 6" and have had no issues. I personally would pull the front shaft if possible and take it for a drive. If that fixes the problem I would drop the tranfer so you driveline is at less of an angle. I have not had any trouble so I did not have to tinker with it. I know I had to drop the tranfer on my 87 blazer at 6".
the lift itself is so simple that front driveshaft is all I can think of. what was the factory issue that they were having with the vibration. I did not have it so I have not researched it.
the lift itself is so simple that front driveshaft is all I can think of. what was the factory issue that they were having with the vibration. I did not have it so I have not researched it.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2005
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a longer upper control arm should put me back into the factory tolerances. the control arm adjustment is maxed out, pivoting the front axle as high as it can go. I thought actually about pivoting the front axle back down to match the angle of the driveshaft coming out the front of the tcase.
Administrator
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,522
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From: Sandy, Utah
It's your front driveshaft.
I promise.
I'm heading to Tom Woods driveshaft shop tomorrow to get a bulletproof driveshaft built.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
They are well aware of the problems some Dodges, both 2nd and 3rd gen, have with lifts of 5-6",
right at the limit of what all lift manufacturers say you won't have a problem,
and they don't address reindexing the transfer case till 7" and higher.
I'd suggest giving them a call, or if you're lucky enough to live close enough to them, pay them a visit.
phox
As always, of course I am not affiliated in any way with the aforementioned company
I promise.
I'm heading to Tom Woods driveshaft shop tomorrow to get a bulletproof driveshaft built.
http://www.4xshaft.com/
They are well aware of the problems some Dodges, both 2nd and 3rd gen, have with lifts of 5-6",
right at the limit of what all lift manufacturers say you won't have a problem,
and they don't address reindexing the transfer case till 7" and higher.
I'd suggest giving them a call, or if you're lucky enough to live close enough to them, pay them a visit.
phox
As always, of course I am not affiliated in any way with the aforementioned company
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2005
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Well guys i put 1/4" longer upper control arms in and it cut the noise and vibration in half. Scott at Tuff Country made them 2 days ago and next dayed them to me free of charge, "Hats Off" to the tech staff. The 1/4" gave me 4degrees more adjustment and from what i can tell put me back into factory tolerances, I will be able to tell more come monday when we get it on the alignment rack at the dealership. Hopefully we keep going forward and not backwards. Thanks everyone for there advice and help. Oh yeah Phox_Mulder the guys at Tom Woods where very helpfull and i do look forward to doing business with them in the future!
