3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

5" stack kit

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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:11 PM
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Pitz's Avatar
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5" stack kit

Anyone seen any good deals on the Grand Rock 5" dual stack kit?
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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03dodgeoffroad1's Avatar
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From: florida
i got mine through the local big rig shop for $475
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:20 PM
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From: Plainfield, IN
Check ebay I got mine for $425 shipping included. But I shopped around for awhile.
Jason
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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From: Northeast Ohio
Got about $200 into mine. Paid 100 for the stacks and got about 100 in parts.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:28 PM
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check ebay
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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Checkmate, did you put together your own y-pipe setup?
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 12:20 AM
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be prepared for some drone. with a big charger and stacks it will be loud inside. the do look pretty cool though. I would think harder about them if I had a long bed
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 08:26 PM
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From: Northeast Ohio
Originally Posted by Pitz
Checkmate, did you put together your own y-pipe setup?



I opted not to go the normal above the bed y pipe route because I need a full 8 foot length in the bed at times.
Therefore I built a crossover box under the bed.







Space left above for those of you guys to say " You can't do that because the fuel tank is in the way"

Anyway, I built a metal box out of heavy guage steel studs (the kind used in commercial building framing) I used 6" studs for the top and bottom and then used 4" thick gauge flat metal for the sides (bracing used in metal framing). The box was then 4" tall by around 5' wide.

After mig welding it all up I cut in a 4" hole in the bottom just off center to the side of the driveshaft and welded in a 4" stub of exhaust pipe (left it stick into the box 1" for water stopping purposes). Now for the top outlets. I used the chop saw and cut a 45 degree angle on a piece of 5" exhaust pipe. I used this to trace an oval hole on the top at each end.
then welded on the two 5" stubs set at a 45 degree angle aiming towards the front of the truck. I then took measurements, and cut the holes in the bed. Now I had to remove all the front bolts to the bed and loosen the rear two bolts. I raised the bed up, slid the box on top of the frame and then lowered the bed down. I used an oak shim on each end to stop vibrations and isolate the heat, then tightened the bed down locking the box in place.
Too hook my 4" straight pipe to the box all I needed was 24" of 4" flex pipe (which slips over the 4" hard pipe, and a 4" elbow to make the sharp turn up into the box.

The reason I opted to run the top pipes out at a 45 degree was so that the box sits on the frame BEHIND the cross member on the bed and the stacks can be set as close to the bulkhead as you want by changing the length of the 5" pipe clamped to the 5" stubs.

If you look in my bed you will see each stack sitting on top of a 45 degree elbow, then about 4" of pipe as they submerge under the bed. I have plenty of room for 4x8 sheets of plywood.

Oh, by the way....I have about 1/2" of clearance between the tank and the box. I also cut the bed tight around the exhaust and it has the line x bedlliner.

I have pushed the egt's to 1350 or so and run 900 straight for an hour and the tank is fine as well as the line x. The line x was affected more by my 500 wattt halogen light than this exhaust.



P.S. My truck is white, my stacks are soot covered inside, BUt I NEVER get black spots on the truck. Must be the way the design is. AND they both blow smoke at the same time and the same amount. I thought for sure I would be needing to use baffles to get the same flow.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 09:24 PM
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From: ct
do you have pics of your setup would like stacks but dont want to loose bed space you setupsounds great would like to see some pics
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