watch out on re-using those clamps. The nut that you tighten on them is a nylon lock nut. The heat of the exhaust will weaken it, especially if you've taken it off/on more than a couple times.

 

Okay, I went to the dealer today and got prices

elbow for the 4.5-05 years 5161570AA $48.85
4" downpipe for the 04.5-05 52121600AA $87.10
Clamp for the above 52121285AA $18.75

So with these bolt on parts we are looking at $154.70 plus tax
And They are a dealer item so you should be able to get tham within 1-2 days.

 

FWIW - I can order those parts for the prices below:

elbow for the 4.5-05 years 5161570AA $36.00
4" downpipe for the 04.5-05 52121600AA $65.00
Clamp for the above 52121285AA $14.00
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL - $115

you can PM if anyone has any more info, thanks!

PS - if you are NOT in missouri, we will not charge tax (cool huh?)

 

hey tommy I just did the cast elbow mod myself. the locator pins pull out with a pair of side cutters.

oh, and guys: after you get the elbow off, take a pic of the exhaust pinwheel. then you'll wonder why on earth you are putting a 4" system up to that little tiny pinwheel!

 

the 2004.5 have a 4inch DP

 

indeed. that very downpipe, and its companion 4" cast elbow, is what tommy and I put on our trucks. you can't use the cast elbow without it.

 

So what, if any, decreases in EGT are you expecting going from 3.5" to a 4" 'elbow-back' system? .25" increase in radius just seems insignificant at say a modest 410 rwhp....What are your opionions? Any real world results or just bragging rights?

--D

 

My opinion is that if it is good enough for DODGE to do it on the 325hp 05 engines

Then that enough reason for me to do it on my 437hp engine

 

I doubt that one could (or would want to) measure the singular contribution of the cast elbow itself to EGT. its just too much work and expense to do reliable before and after measurements. But I'm with Tommy on this one -- it just makes sense. the alternative is to go to the after market and get a 4" downpipe that necks down to 3.5 at the cast elbow -- and then the cast elbow necks right back up to 4". its just a dumb idea in my opinion to go 4" --> 3.5" --> 4", all within about 8 inches.

I showed about 60 degrees EGT beneft with a full 4" system over the stock system -- thats at the 100HP level. how much of that is singularly due to only the cast elbow? beats me. probably next to none, at the end of the say. I'd say part of the benefit might be reduction of turbulance right after the pinweel, improving spoolup, but I can't prove it. my 4" system really impressed me in that department -- low end responsivness at very low RPMs.

 

The way I see it is that if you are going to run a full 4", you might as well have a FULL 4" and not a 3 1/2" neck down right after the turbo. I am hoping for quicker spool up of the turbo.
Also, you state that there is not a great difference from the 3.65" to the 4", BUT there is a greater size difference than that of swapping a 2.5" exhaust out to a 3" exhaust which everyone KNOWS is a big change.

 

its a 33% increase in cross sectional area...

 

What muffler are you guys running who have changed your down pipe and elbow for one off of a 2004.5? Are you keeping your stock tail pipe and only changing the intermediate pipe and muffler? If so what one lines up good with the stock tail pipe? I have a line on a Banks muffler to fit my truck but not the rest of the system and I am not sure if would line up using the stock elbow and downpipe of a 04.5.

 

I kept the stock tail pipe, which is 4" muff to tail. changed downpipe and intermediate pipe Used as monster 51" long Nelson 86131 muffler intended for fleet Diesel tractors.

the answer to your question depends on the hanging system you end up with. When you purchase a complete exhaust system from the likes of MBRP, Banks, etc, the hanger system they provide works out of box. when you go custom, you may have to customize your hanging system as well.

most any type-1 (straight through, no offset) muffler 9"diamter or smaller will line up to the stock tail pipe if you make room to wiggle -- I mean with the use of either no-weld band clamps, or you use a custom muffler shop that can weld up anything you want.

sometimes the after market muff will fit rearward enough so that the stock hanger will weld right on to it. you might need a short pipe between muff and tailpipe.

your best bet in piecing together a system is to utilize a shop that has the resources to accomodate any surprise you might encounter.

 

Well I ordered the parts above through Tomeygun and got them today. Thanks again Tom. Much better deal than ordering an aftermarket downpipe. Now I just have to get myself some 4" exhaust pipe and hook it up.

 

Funny story, I did the install of the cast elbow and the downpipe - But could not get the remaining piping to fit and I did not have any hangers
but I had to get to work... So I drove to work with downpipe only....

TALK ABOUT LOUD!!!!

good think I have a loud stereo - Had to drown it out real bad