3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

37x12.5x17 and PICS??

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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 10:57 AM
  #16  
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I would go with 37 and call it a day. Fill out you sig too.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 12:10 PM
  #17  
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If you stick to factory wheels 37s fit with minimal rub with only a level kit.
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 02:16 PM
  #18  
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What about with H2 wheels?
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 02:50 PM
  #19  
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Yeah, with a small 37. Probably need some plastic trimming also.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 08:25 AM
  #20  
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just to beat a dead horse 37's with H2 wheels will fit with only a 2 in. leveling kit?

or is there a 3 inch kit that might look better any recomendations?
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 09:41 AM
  #21  
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37s, H2, 3" front springs







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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 01:11 PM
  #22  
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nriver,

Can you elaborate on exactly the suspension setup you have (which springs/shocks), the trimming you performed, and where rubbing occurs now when the suspension is fully cycled (compressed) / wheels turned fully. The reason I ask is I would love to do 37s with the H2s, but I also want to be able to tuck those 37s with full articulation and full turning when offroading.

Your trucks seems the closest to where I want to go with mine.

Thanks,

Chris
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 02:04 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Treangen
Pro NRA.....now thats what I like to hear!!! Kinda debating this set up with an 18" wheel and a toyo open country AT in a 285/75/18 which is a true 35"x11.5" versus what we are talking about.
I've been looking at that size too. It's a true 35" without all the width. I don't know how much power you're planning on but these dmf clutches are built right on the edge. I'm running 285-75-17 toyo At's currently. With my camper load of 2000# and Smarty on #1, I feel I'm maxed out. Try and get a 5.75-6" backspace with your wheels. I drove a g-56 w/SBC's 3250 DD and I think that's the way to go.
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 02:21 PM
  #24  
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All you guys have 37 how do the front axles do with wear and tear. Does your steering seem ok. I want to run 37s but i tow often and was wondering what you guys think. I am a DRW.

Thanks
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 02:29 PM
  #25  
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150k and only balljoints at 125k. Proper backspacing is key to suspension lasting.
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 02:36 PM
  #26  
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BTW...I have the tires and wheels your looking for to make it work...only a slight rub on the control arms...

look in the clasifieds...;-)
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 06:00 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by cquestad
150k and only balljoints at 125k. Proper backspacing is key to suspension lasting.
Well ive got a dually so i really dont have any options
Thank you deff makes m efeal better

Yalls trucks look awsome
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 07:11 PM
  #28  
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Do you guys think 35s or 37s would look better on my truck?.....I do not want the tires to look 'stuffed'

I wonder if a 13.50 wide tire will safely fit on the H2s?

The tires on the truck now are BFG AT KO LT315-70R17s, and I think they look good.



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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 10:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by rallydriver
nriver,

Can you elaborate on exactly the suspension setup you have (which springs/shocks), the trimming you performed, and where rubbing occurs now when the suspension is fully cycled (compressed) / wheels turned fully. The reason I ask is I would love to do 37s with the H2s, but I also want to be able to tuck those 37s with full articulation and full turning when offroading.

Your trucks seems the closest to where I want to go with mine.

Thanks,

Chris
Lorenz 2.5 system. 3" front springs and replacements in back. 2.5" SAW shocks front and back.

I trimmed to front fenders, here:



and I also bent the pinch weld back here:



These modifications were done with a set of Weld wheels. Not sure if I would of needed to make them with the H2s or stock wheels. I also think if I went with 1/2" longer control arms I would not of needed to trim either.

I have cycled the front completely, I do get some occasional control arm rub. A adjustable track bar may fix it though, it could be that issue.

Hope this helps.

The welds looked like this.

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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 10:57 PM
  #30  
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I dont know of any balljoint issues, knock on wood. I will say I think I just went over 55K on the truck.
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