2nd start w/grid delete, 52*F, 2609 & 0513
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From: SoCal
2nd start w/grid delete, 52*F, 2609 & 0513
So I installed my grid delete & Glacier air horn yesterday. Went for one drive yesterday, no codes. This morning was a freezing for SoCal 52* (jusk kidding Northerners). CEL stayed on. When I got a break at work I checked it out. 2609 & 0513. The first one was for air heater and the 2nd was like "invalid skim key."
GhostRam was nice enough to return a PM on how to always avoid a code (thanx buddy), but I need to plug in the block heater to an extension cord that night. I have yet to find where any of my block heater stuff is.
Somewhere I read about an ohm resistor that keeps codes from being set.
I will look for it again. But I would like to try this out.
Also, where are the ECM wires & the relay? Are they on the cable that connects the grid to the battery? All I saw was the 2 cable ends.
Thanx people.
GhostRam was nice enough to return a PM on how to always avoid a code (thanx buddy), but I need to plug in the block heater to an extension cord that night. I have yet to find where any of my block heater stuff is.
Somewhere I read about an ohm resistor that keeps codes from being set.
I will look for it again. But I would like to try this out.
Also, where are the ECM wires & the relay? Are they on the cable that connects the grid to the battery? All I saw was the 2 cable ends.
Thanx people.
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From: MD
you will have to get the block heater cord from the dealer $35 and it will thread into a fitting next to the oil filter. this fitting has a black cap on it from the factory which will have to be removed first. once i installed mine i havent seen a code since due to the coolant staying warm enough to keep the wait to start light from coming on and triggering the grid.
your relay should have 2 larger size power cables coming from it to the batt and the grid. the relay should also have 2 small wires connected to it, one being the trigger from the ecm and the other being a ground i believe,have to double check the factory service manual.
your relay should have 2 larger size power cables coming from it to the batt and the grid. the relay should also have 2 small wires connected to it, one being the trigger from the ecm and the other being a ground i believe,have to double check the factory service manual.
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From: SoCal
Thanx again Ghost, especially for answering the same question twice. OK, for the relay I guess I did not track the cable completely from the grid to the battery.
I will do it the block heater way if there is no way to do it w/o using the block heater. It is just I live in SoCal where I would never need a block heater in the first place.
Thanx again GhostRam!
I will do it the block heater way if there is no way to do it w/o using the block heater. It is just I live in SoCal where I would never need a block heater in the first place.
Thanx again GhostRam!
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From: SoCal
OK, I found this by Carl48:
"i removed the heaters from three of our 2006's on the first one i removed everything including the relay it set off the check engine light and code 541 as shown on smarty jr i measured the anp draw of the relay it was 0.8amp i found a 20 ohm 10 watt resistor and hooked it up to the two controll wires reset the codes with the smarty and no problems the next one i tried a 25 ohm and it set the code off i scrounged around and found a 16 ohm and a 15 ohm i installed them and no codes after that on any of them , the ecm must see near 0.8 amp draw to the small black wire with the yellow tracer when it calls for grid heat the best i can figure"
Cool info Carl48.
"i removed the heaters from three of our 2006's on the first one i removed everything including the relay it set off the check engine light and code 541 as shown on smarty jr i measured the anp draw of the relay it was 0.8amp i found a 20 ohm 10 watt resistor and hooked it up to the two controll wires reset the codes with the smarty and no problems the next one i tried a 25 ohm and it set the code off i scrounged around and found a 16 ohm and a 15 ohm i installed them and no codes after that on any of them , the ecm must see near 0.8 amp draw to the small black wire with the yellow tracer when it calls for grid heat the best i can figure"
Cool info Carl48.
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From: ruidoso new mexico
the resistor is not directional, there is two small controll wires that have a small cap that fits over the post on the relay, pull the caps off of the relay and skin the wires back and tie the resistor in, i cut the caps off of the ones i did because the heaters or solionoid will never go back on. if you need any more info let me know
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From: SoCal
the resistor is not directional, there is two small controll wires that have a small cap that fits over the post on the relay, pull the caps off of the relay and skin the wires back and tie the resistor in, i cut the caps off of the ones i did because the heaters or solionoid will never go back on. if you need any more info let me know
I am trying this tomorrow. Thanx a bunch Carl48!
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Thread Starter
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From: SoCal
the resistor is not directional, there is two small controll wires that have a small cap that fits over the post on the relay, pull the caps off of the relay and skin the wires back and tie the resistor in, i cut the caps off of the ones i did because the heaters or solionoid will never go back on. if you need any more info let me know
Hey Carl, where is the relay?
Thanx.
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From: fresno ca.
you will have to get the block heater cord from the dealer $35 and it will thread into a fitting next to the oil filter. this fitting has a black cap on it from the factory which will have to be removed first. once i installed mine i havent seen a code since due to the coolant staying warm enough to keep the wait to start light from coming on and triggering the grid.
your relay should have 2 larger size power cables coming from it to the batt and the grid. the relay should also have 2 small wires connected to it, one being the trigger from the ecm and the other being a ground i believe,have to double check the factory service manual.
your relay should have 2 larger size power cables coming from it to the batt and the grid. the relay should also have 2 small wires connected to it, one being the trigger from the ecm and the other being a ground i believe,have to double check the factory service manual.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: ruidoso new mexico
follow the large wire from the heaters, it goes around the front of the motor and to the relay or solinoid that is screwed to the battery box , there is a short 160 amp fuse wire on the feed post that connects to the battery terminal, i think it is T-25 torque screws that hold the relay on ,remove all and tie rap the resistor to the neg batt lead this cleans up the area. as to why we remove them we are trying to get maximum milage and not power, if you replace the factory horn and grid with a cfm+ and a windspeed spacer you can gain noticeable power or torque and a slight improvement in mileage, a fiew days ago i was directed to a site called trivalley performance .com i think. it confirmed our findings and is one of the cheaper things we did, can't spell for sh$%
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From: Santa Teresa, New Mexico
OK, I found this by Carl48:
"i removed the heaters from three of our 2006's on the first one i removed everything including the relay it set off the check engine light and code 541 as shown on smarty jr i measured the anp draw of the relay it was 0.8amp i found a 20 ohm 10 watt resistor and hooked it up to the two controll wires reset the codes with the smarty and no problems the next one i tried a 25 ohm and it set the code off i scrounged around and found a 16 ohm and a 15 ohm i installed them and no codes after that on any of them , the ecm must see near 0.8 amp draw to the small black wire with the yellow tracer when it calls for grid heat the best i can figure"
Cool info Carl48.
"i removed the heaters from three of our 2006's on the first one i removed everything including the relay it set off the check engine light and code 541 as shown on smarty jr i measured the anp draw of the relay it was 0.8amp i found a 20 ohm 10 watt resistor and hooked it up to the two controll wires reset the codes with the smarty and no problems the next one i tried a 25 ohm and it set the code off i scrounged around and found a 16 ohm and a 15 ohm i installed them and no codes after that on any of them , the ecm must see near 0.8 amp draw to the small black wire with the yellow tracer when it calls for grid heat the best i can figure"
Cool info Carl48.