Where did you find it, im looking for one.

 

Here ya go... price has increased... what else is new.

http://www.jlindustrial.com/RML-4584.../product.html#


anyone want mine I'll make ya a smoking deal... only used 26 times exactly...

Plus before I did my studs I spoke with a couple people in the know. Doug (jetpilot) told me of his experiences with the studs. He recommended using more ARP moly lube. They give you a little container with the studs. I bought a pint more and it was needed to lube them adequately. I have alot of the ARP lube left over also...

 

that chart only gives the ranges when you do a tensile test you come out with a curve of the of the stress strain graph on the following page and the ductile properties of the material. but truthfully the load verse elongation is the most important factor in the clamping of the head.

http://web.vtc.edu/mt/nu358spr03/TTe...c23/spec23.htm

these are test i did while in college.

 

Thank trik396!

 

what did you guys use to turn the tap, just a wrench??

 

impact gun... j/k

on the back ones, you can probably use a 1/4 drive rachet with a 12 pt socket to fit your tap.

 

lol! yeah i was thinking impact gun also, but i thought i would just do it by hand to make for extra work! lol

 

Till the tap breaks...then your really going to know what extra work means!

I used a tap handle and a wrench for the back ones.

 

I ran across this concept after already sinking the studs in the engine a while back.

How far are you all tapping down? At present, the studs in my truck only have 2 to 3 threads above the nuts after final torque, IIRC.

Thanks!

 

It really is just another 2-3 threads...lol.

I am sure it would be fine to NOT do it...but you know what...400 hp was fine...then 500 hp was fine...then 600 hp was fine...and so on.

Might as well do it AS RIGHT AS POSSIBLE the first tiem and never look back.

Its just time...right? ;-)

 

I am with you there!

 

Thanx for all the cool info., guys.

 

So, In what order did you remove a factory bolt and install a stud and what torque did you use for the first sequence of the studs before all the factory bolts are removed?

 

I agree with Mark overkill is fine overkill on the wallet not so much.. Cq... I am glad you jumped in on this... I definately listen when you speak!!! If I remember Trik didn't you do a write up on this??? I do agree with cquestad if Lmills is running regular then they aren't so bad...

 

the ARP 2000's sound like they would work just fine......it's just that little voice in my head keeps saying get the 625's and never worry about it...lol.....I dont know what to do!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?thanks for the input guys........Has lmills ever popped his head gasket with the ARP 2000's??? I looked at his past posts and he did say he popped it once but that was a stud install error...is what he said????If a guy used his truck everyday and popped the HG it could be down for a day or more....just a couple days down time could add up to the cost difference in the two.