As on old A&P mechanic, I am tempted to disassemble my sticky turbo and give it a good scrubbing to see if I can get it to behave. Has anybody out there had theirs apart? My big question is whether the stepper motor finds its own way "home" , are the gears indexed, or does it have to be reset by a dealer?

 

If you want one to bust open and play with shoot me a PM..... but it'll cost ya!

 

Thanks. I've got a used one on its way from flea-bay that I am going to either put on the truck or disassemble, depending on the condition. Holset is no help with the 351 as they are deemed non-rebuildable by them, although there are companies out there rebuilding them. Hopefully my "new" used turbo will get here by this weekend so I can play with it.

 

Holeset, on their website has a repair manual for the HE351CW turbo. Hope this helps. I have it on my computer but can't get it uploaded.

 

Nice truck Dave. I still miss my '00 3500. I saw that manual on Holset, but ran into problems downloading it myself. Thought it was my Mac. It is my understanding that the CW is a fixed geometry turbo, whereas the VE has the electronic variable vanes, the source of my turbo problems (and many other people as well). Plan is to hopefully end up with two servicible turbos that I can swap out as they clog up and barf.

 

I would think the servo would be a positional servo, in that it has to be in certain measurable positions for the ECM. Judging by the wires coming out of it anyway. If you could at all mark the positions, it may make the swap out a little easier. IT may be something that the travel is reset every start when it does the full sweep to set the boundaries, but it may need to be calibrated with StarScan after install.. Interesting project.

 

When the key is first turned on, the stepper motor goes through a "range of motion" check to determine if the vane travel is being impeded in any way. What I need to find out is if it uses something like Hall effect sensors or limit switches to know where the limits are, or just looks for an increase in current draw. Where does it start counting the steps?! Have looked on ebay for just the motor to take apart and look at, but no luck there. Am hesitant to pull one off my turbos until I can find out. Something to play with anyway.

 

Thanks. I love this truck, although it has had some issues. I just rebuilt my Hx35 recently. I was fortunate to have a holeset distributor in town. They had the rebuild kit and rebalanced my wheels and shaft. Pricing on the rebuild kit was reasonable. If you tear them apart, make sure you mark the wheels good. I thought I did but could not find my marks after cleaning it up some. Good luck.

 

Found some good information on a Mazda RX7 site, of all places. Yes, this guy is putting a HE351VE on a Mazda rotary, and building his own controller. I'm impressed! The electronics in the VE include three Hall effect sensors (home, and travel limits) and a microprocessor, that decodes CAN-bus data from the ECM. In short, the rack and pinion do need to be indexed. If I make sure the turbo is "home" before I take the motor module off, I should be able to measure the position of the vanes and hopefully be able to reassemble it in the correct position. Glad one is a spare.

 

Hey guys,

getting ready to swap one of these in to my 2001...I thought just like you lets crack this baby open and give her a good cleaning...

Well I made the foolish mistake of taking off the controller (acturator) and not marking ther gear to the body for positioning.

I have found just like you all they are timed (indexed). I have been told, but now also read oposing views of "putting it back together"

1. I was told that all that is needed is to plug my electonics into a 6.7 and it is self learning and will re-calibrate/position the actuater and travel of the rod. So basicly find a running 6.7 take my 351 (don't need compressor houseing or exhaust housing, just the center with electronics) hold it near the running turbo, disconnect the rpm pick up and ecm pigtails, plug them into my turbo and have someone turn the key to the ON position (do not start the truck)...the collar will go through a sweep and calibrate. And it will not affect the truck that I am using, just plug their plugs back into thier turbo.

2. Only a "holset specific tool" which cummins has but they dont work on our trucks and Dodge does not which is why they just junk the turbo, can put them back into timing.

Something about the two holes in the bottom of the actuator case that lines up with a whole on the gear????

Any thoughts....

I want to run a fleece controler but they tell me it needs to be set to the proper timing/indexing for their programing to work properly.

How can I best accomplish this..anyone....I dont want to resort to the manual WG actuation for the swap.

thanks

Jake

 

bump-

anybody complete this put back together? I am sort of in the same boat and wondering if my sleeve is opening all the way. I did the same thing Nor Cal Angler did. just replaced the center section.

my turbo locked up and bent the shaft. I was careful taking off the computer part, and kept the gear in place, but things could have been screwy since the truck was running so bad and the turbo wouldn't even spin.

my issue is that I think that the EGT is running alittle high.

 

I will be watching this thread as I have a spare turbo here and would like to 'tune it up' for any possible future requirement.

I also have an idea on how to run parallel twins with a custom exhaust manifold.

 

that Kubota has gotten to your brain stem


BAM

 

You're the one getting married.

BADA BING.

 

I think i gots a keeper too. she likes fast cars, drag racin, boating, motorcycles, all the fun stuff and likes to get dirty too. cleans up purty good too! LOL

BUT...... maybe its all a ploy to get me then she turns on the witch switch. hmmmmmmmm lol