3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2007 and up 6.7 liter Engine and Drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Looking at a 07.5

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Old 09-01-2011, 08:32 PM
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Looking at a 07.5

Well, I am finally back in the market for a real truck after having to sell my 2003 a few years back when the economy went bad. I looked at a 2500 4x4 with the 6.7L today. It has 45,000 miles, a 6" lift and 37" tires, long bed, bushwacker flares, a srt hood with some hail damage and a manual 6 speed. It feels like it needs ball joints and I think the clutch slipped a little in 3rd gear. All the dpf crap seemed to still be in tact, it still has factory exhaust, and no signs of any gauges or egt probe ever installed. It is for sale at a local dodge dealer near me for 27,900. Does the warranty cover the clutch if its bad? I asked about getting it replaced but they acted like I was crazy. Would this be a good deal if I can get them to knock off the price enough for me to put a "good" clutch in it? It kind of scares me how the previous owner drove it for it to need a clutch and ball joints at 45,000 miles. Anything else I should look for? Sorry for the long post but I don't know much about the 6.7 motor. Thanks for any and all help.
Old 09-01-2011, 08:50 PM
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Also, I didn't notice and forgot to look for it but do all of the 6.7's come with the engine braking system?
Old 09-02-2011, 09:46 AM
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I bought my 07.5 eight months ago with 118k (no warranty) on it for $22k. The pollution crap has been a pain to keep clean and working right, but other than that, it has been the best truck I have ever owned. The truck you are looking at does have the exhaust brake. It is an integral part of the turbo, and using it will help keep it clean. As for the clutch slipping, I have seen people tear up a clutch in less miles without driving it hard, just not using it properly. I would think that if it needs ball joints, that should be covered by the warranty. If you decide to buy it, I highly recommend installing a steering box stabilizer. Put one on mine and was absolutely amazed at how much it tightened up the steering and reduced the front end frame flex that has always been a problem with the Dodge diesel 4x4s. Less than $200 and takes less than an hour to install. Not sure why Dodge doesn't put one on there to begin with. As for the 6.7 engine, it is a beast, but then it's a Cummins. Hope this helps.
Old 09-02-2011, 12:33 PM
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These are good/valid points you've brought up in looking at a used truck. You should be able to use these potential issues to negotiate price and/or have them fixed prior. Regarding the clutch, this is not a warantee item and even under normal type conditions barely adequate. So, maybe you can negoatiate some price with this at least, but plan on it being upgraded at some point soon. The tires and lift will only add to it which would/could accelerate wear on the joints and other items. If they do nothing to fix/upgrade, then I would make sure I got the very best price and then do the work on my $. Otherwise, it seems like it would be OK. Make sure there are no CEL's or codes.
Old 09-02-2011, 08:52 PM
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With 37's I could easily see a stock clutch slipping in those miles without too much abuse. That is a lot of tire and it puts enough load on the drive train to be equal to pulling a good size trailer constantly. Your talking upwards of 100lbs of tire and wheel on each corner depending on the combo.
Old 09-05-2011, 06:50 AM
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Thanks for the input. I went and drove the truck again and probably would have bought but the dealer told me that the truck would have no drive train or engine warranty because of the lift and bigger tires. I could have dealt with the no warranty because I would gut the dpf crap, but they wouldn't drop the price to accomidate the no warranty. I also wanted to ask- back when I had my 03 model, nobody wanted an auto tranny, but now it seems everyone I talk to speaks very highly about the new six speed auto in these 6.7 trucks. Are they alot better than they used to be?
Thanks
Old 09-05-2011, 08:54 AM
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I love mine. The "Tow/Haul" switch (which I turn on right after starting the truck) and the up/down shift button make it very easy to keep the engine rpms right where you want them. I drop it down to 4th or 5th when I am in town, and it stays between 1500 and 2000. Very happy with it.
Old 09-05-2011, 12:52 PM
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I had a 2000 with the auto and it was ok. The 68RFE is head and shoulders better than the old 4 speed. Can you wreck them? Yes, but I guarantee I can wreck any transmission with enough boost and silliness. There are numerous people here with the 6 speed auto and higher miles and no issues. Its always in the right gear and the engine break is amazing.

If I were you, I'd check ebay for used trucks, stay away from the lifted ones as they have usually been abused to some degree, then if you want, put on your own lift kit, etc. Just don't be in a hurry to buy, there are lots of deals out there, especially in this economy.
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