is the g56 tranny stronger?
is the g56 tranny stronger?
what is the difference in the nv5600 tranny and the g56 tranny and clutch set up. I had good luck with the old one and had the smarty on the truck set to level 6 and the clutch wouldnt slip. Now i have the g56 and a whole lot less miles on this truck and i cant even put the smarty on level 2 without the clutch moaning to me. but the g56 is alot smoother shifting. whats the difference in the set ups and clutches.
The G56 comes with a dual mass flywheel (in stock form) for starters. I can't really compare stock clutches much as I upgraded the clutch on my '01 before adding power, and did the same on my '05. While I like the smoothness of the G56, I am not so sure about it's longevity under high HP conditions. Of course the NV5600 isn't exactly bulletproof either (synchro issues), but I have been overall pleased with it on the '01 thus far...
I would highly suggest an aftermarket clutch with a single mass flywheel if you don't want expensive repairs from the flywheel coming apart on you, it's been known to happen...
I would highly suggest an aftermarket clutch with a single mass flywheel if you don't want expensive repairs from the flywheel coming apart on you, it's been known to happen...
yeah id have to agree with the synchro issues, because when my 04 was still under warranty i ended up getting that problem fixed. 1st and 4th gear.On THAt dual mass flywheel deal whats that?
Its my understanding that the NV has more internal support for bearings and shafts. Apparently, adding some power to the G56 can cause the shafts to flex to the point they dont mesh fully and break. Ive heard the aluminum case of the G56 splits. I plan to swap an NV5600 into my 07, if I can round one up
Dual mass has a solid-hub disc(no torsion springs) and torsional vibration is taken up in the two-piece flywheel. Its friction surface is thin(so don't try turning a fresh surface on it) and it is inherently weak...when you decide on a new clutch, consider the South Bend Con OFE with the hydraulic upgrade and solid flywheel---it will withstand common horsepower upgrades without slippage.
They seem good up to about 500 hp. The stock dual mass is terrible.
I grenaded 4th gear playing on the street testing the TNT-R Beta. Parts are STOOOPID expensive for the G56 transmissions too. I'm just gonna save up for an auto swap in the future.
I grenaded 4th gear playing on the street testing the TNT-R Beta. Parts are STOOOPID expensive for the G56 transmissions too. I'm just gonna save up for an auto swap in the future.
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well it sounds clear to me that i better be getting that southbend clutch set up deal.
what model # clutch on that southbend do you guys think i should get. Id like for something that is reliable for the street and towing but i want it to be able to hold a good bit of power later on when i get some injectors ect.
what model # clutch on that southbend do you guys think i should get. Id like for something that is reliable for the street and towing but i want it to be able to hold a good bit of power later on when i get some injectors ect.
Its my understanding that the NV has more internal support for bearings and shafts. Apparently, adding some power to the G56 can cause the shafts to flex to the point they dont mesh fully and break. Ive heard the aluminum case of the G56 splits. I plan to swap an NV5600 into my 07, if I can round one up
Personaly I don't see a advantage to swapping a G56 for a NV5600.
NV5600-no parts available, shifts like a dump truck, but a good cast iron case. Crappy factory clutch
G56- lighter trans, better gearing, better shifting, alum case that flexs under high HP. Crappy factory clutch.
both can and have broken under high HP abuse, of course so have autos. I laugh every time I see an auto as being the salution. They break and are stupid expensive to fix also. Just dont see as many broken autos from 3000 RPM clutch drops in 3rd gear.
G56- lighter trans, better gearing, better shifting, alum case that flexs under high HP. Crappy factory clutch.
both can and have broken under high HP abuse, of course so have autos. I laugh every time I see an auto as being the salution. They break and are stupid expensive to fix also. Just dont see as many broken autos from 3000 RPM clutch drops in 3rd gear.
An auto can be built to tolerate ALOT of abuse and are MUCH MUCH FASTER in the 1/4 mile hence my reason for doing so. The parts are also readily available and not as expensive after the initial entry price. Dodge doesn't even sell syncros and single gears for the countershaft on the G56, it has to be replaced as a unit which cost over $1200 for that single shaft! So if you bust 4th gear, you gotta replace all six on the counter shaft. Then you still need the main shaft syncro and gear plus anything else that got damaged.
I met a couple of high HP G56 guys this weekend at the Western NC dyno day. One has broke 6 of the G56's, the other has broken 3. Replacing that weak G56 three times would build an auto pretty easy. The NV5600 as stated earlier is no longer produced and parts are becoming difficult and expensive to get for them. So for those of us who plan to have fun AND knowingly abuse our trucks AND don't want the BS of weak cases or no longer produced hard to find parts, the auto swap is much more sensible.
I met a couple of high HP G56 guys this weekend at the Western NC dyno day. One has broke 6 of the G56's, the other has broken 3. Replacing that weak G56 three times would build an auto pretty easy. The NV5600 as stated earlier is no longer produced and parts are becoming difficult and expensive to get for them. So for those of us who plan to have fun AND knowingly abuse our trucks AND don't want the BS of weak cases or no longer produced hard to find parts, the auto swap is much more sensible.
If you insist on the auto why stay dodge then? There are plenty of units out there that will bolt up with the right adapter. I am just saying the G56 is a better trans than a NV5600, and I have both. Personnaly if If I was abusing a standard I would swap in a NV4500. Cheap and a factory install in 03 so the parts are available for a bolt in. If you are draging the truck just go for a bigger and better auto or go wild and get an Eaton 18 spd manual with electronic shift. Last one was a joke but I am sure you get my point. None of these are designed to be flogged with 500+ HP daily at the strip or tractor pulls.
Forgot to mention this, go to Spicers web page and look how big of a Ujoint you should be running to support the torque a 500 HP motor makes. I bet that they dont even have a flange that will fit our trucks. It will probably be an 1810 series joint. Thats what a semi runs! The 4500/5500 C&C runs a 1550 series joint which is about double the torque capacity of the pick up joints. Funny that the C&C runs a different auto aint it! Whats all this mean? We ask alot of our toys and cant complain when we break them, just got to move on to bigger parts when are our over tasked drivetrain snaps. Same as the guys with lifted 1/2 tons and 8 lug axles.
Forgot to mention this, go to Spicers web page and look how big of a Ujoint you should be running to support the torque a 500 HP motor makes. I bet that they dont even have a flange that will fit our trucks. It will probably be an 1810 series joint. Thats what a semi runs! The 4500/5500 C&C runs a 1550 series joint which is about double the torque capacity of the pick up joints. Funny that the C&C runs a different auto aint it! Whats all this mean? We ask alot of our toys and cant complain when we break them, just got to move on to bigger parts when are our over tasked drivetrain snaps. Same as the guys with lifted 1/2 tons and 8 lug axles.
Its my understanding that the NV has more internal support for bearings and shafts. Apparently, adding some power to the G56 can cause the shafts to flex to the point they dont mesh fully and break. Ive heard the aluminum case of the G56 splits. I plan to swap an NV5600 into my 07, if I can round one up
I did get a line on a G56 today. I suppose either would be better than the auto


